audio card jumpers becoming a pain, any recommendations guys?

kev

kev

Im guybrush threepwood
Jun 16, 2004
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Bristol, United Kingdom
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Hey guys, my 1010lt has been niggling at me recently, thanks to the jumpers. I basically would like to be able to record both cranked and at reasonable bedroom levels without having to change the jumpers on the card from +4db down to -10 and vice versa ( as it means i have to keep cracking open my pc). ( I have to change the jumpers to cope with the increased / decreased signal to the pres in case you're not familiar with the card)

So heres hoping you guys might know a way around this either by means of software or tricking it somehow lol.

Cheers,

Kev
 
kev said:
So heres hoping you guys might know a way around this either by means of software or tricking it somehow lol.
Click to expand...

This is a hardware problem and i highly doubt that it can be solved by software.
If you want to, you can buy an E-mu 1212M which has a little servo that switches from +4 to -10 .
 
I have an idea :muahaha:
This may or may not work, but you can try to connect cables with on/off switches to the jumpers - this will solve the constant opening and closing the case problem .

I think this is the type of cable that you'll need :
http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=478
Go to your local electronic parts store and ask them to solder the cables to a proper switch. This will cost <10$
 
Mutant said:
I have an idea :muahaha:
This may or may not work, but you can try to connect cables with on/off switches to the jumpers - this will solve the constant opening and closing the case problem .

I think this is the type of cable that you'll need :
http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=478
Go to your local electronic parts store and ask them to solder the cables to a proper switch. This will cost <10$
Click to expand...

lol, i have no idea what im supposed to be using those wires for haha!

Edit.. ah, its making sense, ive gotta connect the wires... and close them off somehowby connecting them
 
kev said:
lol, i have no idea what im supposed to be using those wires for haha!
Click to expand...

:guh: Language barrier ?
Each of these wires have a standard jumper connector on one of their ends
You connect one wire to one of jumper "poles" and the other wire to the 2nd pole and then you connect both wires to an on/off swith - you have a super jumper that you can short and disconnect from a wire length distance.
 
Mutant said:
:guh: Language barrier ?
Each of these wires have a standard jumper connector on one of their ends
You connect one wire to one of jumper "poles" and the other wire to the 2nd pole and then you connect both wires to an on/off swith - you have a super jumper that you can short and disconnect from a wire length distance.
Click to expand...

ah, it makes sense perfectly now bro, i think you caught my initial post from when i woke up haha! There is a plot now to wire up a toggle switch :kickass:
 
I don't see why this is such a problem. What do you mean by "You are trying to record things cranked and at lower volumes". Can you leave the card at the hotter input and adjust down from there.
 
chadsxe said:
I don't see why this is such a problem. What do you mean by "You are trying to record things cranked and at lower volumes". Can you leave the card at the hotter input and adjust down from there.
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If the card is left @ a hotter input and you take it down even to the lowest it will still be too much of a hot signal to record a cranked amp.

Well anyway, its all sorted! Got a few parts on the way including a switch and some jumper wire. Much thanks to mutant! And also, a mate of mine who drew me a little diagram to wire it all up haha.

edit: heres the pic, just in case anyone might need to do the job in the future! :

jumpersolution.JPG
 
kev said:
If the card is left @ a hotter input and you take it down even to the lowest it will still be too much of a hot signal to record a cranked amp.

Well anyway, its all sorted! Got a few parts on the way including a switch and some jumper wire. Much thanks to mutant! And also, a mate of mine who drew me a little diagram to wire it all up haha.

edit: heres the pic, just in case anyone might need to do the job in the future! :

jumpersolution.JPG
Click to expand...

Yes I understand how it works I just never had the issue you were having. When I had it I would set it up so that it woule be able to record an amp cranked and then with softer sources I used a pre-amp that had a lot of good gain. This might be the issue in your case though. Are you still just using the pres on the card or do you have your own pres. But even with that said what are you recording that falls well below the dynamic range of db level you have the jumpers set at. Are you using a ribbion mic of some sorts?
 
chadsxe said:
Are you still just using the pres on the card or do you have your own pres. But even with that said what are you recording that falls well below the dynamic range of db level you have the jumpers set at. Are you using a ribbion mic of some sorts?
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Yeh thats the problem chad, im using only the pres on the 1010lt and non other- so it would be no probs if i actually had a sepearte pre to control it all with. I use +19DB to record at bedroom volumes, and i have tried to change the jumpers down to the +14db but even when i boost the levels with the software i wont be able to record a good enough signal.

Mutant said:
Great :D

Tell us if it works when you finish soldering.
Click to expand...

haha will do dude, parts should be here in the morning if royal mail live up to it!

Kev
 
well, its worked! Only one problem, idiot me only bought one switch and forgot there were actually two sets of jumpers :waah: haha.

Btw, anybody know if when i flick the switch it will cause any problems? (aka changing the jumpers when the PC is on) ? Im too scared to flick the switch when the comp is on at the moment lol!
 
kev said:
wBtw, anybody know if when i flick the switch it will cause any problems? (aka changing the jumpers when the PC is on) ? Im too scared to flick the switch when the comp is on at the moment lol!
Click to expand...

Hmm I don't know maybe ask the manufacturer, my 1212M can be switched when on. But i would be scared too if i tried this method with my mainboard.
I think better be safe than sorry until you speak with someone who knows.
 
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