Cables

Sep 17, 2010
533
0
16
New Jersey
When i organized my setup over a year ago, i focused on getting all the gear down like the monitors, mics, computer, etc. but the cables i went with were just sort of slapdash. just the cheapest things i could find, really. but i'm set to fix that.

so, what 1/4" cables should i go with for accurate monitoring? i'm restricted to 1/4'' since while my monitors have xlr inputs my interface only has 1/4" out. i've never seen cables promoted for accuracy, so i'm totally lost here.

and, i need some decent xlr cables for mic'ing. is there just one industry standard that everyone saves up for?
 
I'd go with monster or planet waves, I like them both, but I would put priority on monster, I've been really pleased with their cables, never heard a single bad thing about them from anyone else either, well except about the price... But hey, you get what you pay for.
 
I like Planet Waves cables as well, along with Mogami, Canare, etc.

I hate Monster Cables.

Back in my formative years as a Guitar Center employee (I know, that's some amazing credibility I'm coming to the table with), we EASILY had more returns on broken Monster Cables than ANY other cable. Yes, they will replace them, but that's a pain in the ass and it won't do you any good when you're in the middle of a session or a show.

More recently, we ran into a situation during the tracking of the last Greeley Estates record in which two of the bassist's Monster Cables sounded noticeably worse than a set of Livewires I had lying around - we're not talking a small, negligible difference here but a clear degradation of quality in both cables. When we switched cables there was a clear improvement in tone, and that was the nail in the Monster Cable coffin as far as I'm concerned.

You should also consider checking out RedCo - you can custom order any type of cable you like, at a reasonable price.
 
I like Planet Waves cables as well, along with Mogami, Canare, etc.

I hate Monster Cables.

Back in my formative years as a Guitar Center employee (I know, that's some amazing credibility I'm coming to the table with), we EASILY had more returns on broken Monster Cables than ANY other cable. Yes, they will replace them, but that's a pain in the ass and it won't do you any good when you're in the middle of a session or a show.

More recently, we ran into a situation during the tracking of the last Greeley Estates record in which two of the bassist's Monster Cables sounded noticeably worse than a set of Livewires I had lying around - we're not talking a small, negligible difference here but a clear degradation of quality in both cables. When we switched cables there was a clear improvement in tone, and that was the nail in the Monster Cable coffin as far as I'm concerned.

You should also consider checking out RedCo - you can custom order any type of cable you like, at a reasonable price.

You sir have shaken my faith in monster cables. I'm pretty gentle on my cables so maybe I've just been lucky so far. Sounds like planet waves or mogami are probably a good bet.
 
+1 to making them, by far the best deal you are going to get.

Monster Cables I have a thing against since they are WAY overpriced. Especially when you start looking at store cost on those, there is some serious mark-up.

Realistically, at reasonable lengths and especially at line level, you will not find a significant difference between cheap cables and good cables at a sonic or measurable level.

Low impedance and high output negate most of a cables effect. There are huge construction differences and shielding and such, but I think most people worry about it too much.

Guitar cables are difference since we are talking about high impedance low output signals which are susceptible to all sorts of badness.

Good cables will last longer and have better shielding and easier construction. Good connectors will have tighter tolerances to fit more jacks and strain relief and such.

Also a reality is that all cables fail. If you are moving them and using them, they fail, period. So knowing how to make them, means you will know how to fix them, saving you cash.

Basically don't sweat the details and get caught into too much hype. Cables aren't going to be anywhere near a magic bullet, assuming they work of course.

Personally I like Mogami, Canare, and Belden for raw cable. Then I like Neutrik connectors for XLR's and 1/4". You can get them colored, they wrap nice, are very nice to work with and are just great cable. Avoid Switchcraft, overpriced and the strain-relief is shit. Grab and iron, some flux, and solder, and go to town. Save a ton of $$ and have cables that will kick some ass.
 
Mogami, Planet Waves, ProCo, etc. Avoid the "deals". Good cables cost money. Period. And I personally only use Monster in my live gear. Never for recording. I don't trust how much the sound may or may not be colored.
 
Far too much is put into cables by some people imo.

A cable is just a cable. As long it's not absolute bargain bucket trash it should be fine. What you're paying for is better quality shielding and durability (and in the case of some manufacturers, snake oil) This is important for guitar cables but for any line level signals it really doesn't matter what cables you use.
 
newbie question concerning DIY: about balanced cables, is the cable any different than the regular ones or the "balanced" thingy is produced by the connectors (TRS, for example)? I mean, does a "balanced" cable have some sort of different shielding?
 
newbie question concerning DIY: about balanced cables, is the cable any different than the regular ones or the "balanced" thingy is produced by the connectors (TRS, for example)? I mean, does a "balanced" cable have some sort of different shielding?

Balancing is actually sending an inverse of the same signal down a separate wire. What that does is that any noise introduced will affect both signals the same way. So when the inverse and original signal are combined, the noise cancels out.

Also since there is leakage through the insulation, the wires in a balance cable tend to be twisted. So they are a twisted pair. Electrically this actually boosts the signal with each twist. An example is network cable, the CAT number (ie. CAT 5, CAT 6) is how many twists per distance. The more twists the better, but only if the signal is balanced (the inverse is sent on the second wire of the pair).

So the connectors have nothing to do with it, but you need three connections, a ground which is also the shield, the + or regular signal, and the - or inverted signal.

Headphone cables are also TRS, but the cable is actually two individual coax wires (single + wire with a shield). They are also not twisted to prevent bleed between the left and right.

XLR's can also be used for power and often are used in lighting control systems. But the cable is completely different.

Shielding is just a wrap around the outside. Some are spiraled, some braided. Foil is the best and cheapest but moving it will cause tears and problems. But it is a great way to save on permanent installs. They tend to be same between coax (guitar cables) and mic cables (twisted pair). This essentially is a capacitor, so that is why length and capacitance measurements matter to some degree depending on the impedance and signal strength.

When you start building say Mogami+Neutrik, your cost will be the same and often even lower than the super cheapo cables.

If you are determined not to solder, or don't have time (ie. I need 40 cables tomorrow) then check out Audiopile.net, I have had really good luck with their cables. I have a couple from Orange County Speaker repair, their connectors are Neutrik clones and the cable is very flexible and sounds fine. They have been holding up for a few years now, so I can't complain.

Redco brand cable (not their mogami and canare and such) is nice cable. But they use rope for strain relief which I have trouble working with, very minor gripe.