Caulking my cab?

[Meisterjäger]

I'm gonna practically dismantle my Framus Dragon 4x12 this weekend, make sure everything's good and tight, and I'd like to caulk the baffle, handles etc.

Anyone got any reccomendations? I was just planning on using decorators caulk, described as best for filling cracks in low movement joints, flexible to 10%.

 

[Metaltastic]

I think silicone would be a better choice, since caulk can dry out and flake off (and I've always heard of silicone being used in cabs) Cool idea though, I'll be interested to hear if there's a difference! (of course to really judge, before and after clips would be nice )

 

[Meisterjäger]

Heard of it for the first time with those Basson cabs, to be honest. Trying to figure out what their secret is

So Silicone based caulk, cool, makes sense :Spin:

 

[ßlackwater]

FWIW I have heard that you should not silicone the handle openings because some air leaking out is desirable. I'm no expert though.

 

[Meisterjäger]

Yeah, there needs to be some air escaping. I won't be caulking the back of the cab, and the handles are pretty well sealed already.

Thanks for the tip

 

[mick thompson]

yea pick up builders caulking. that'll do the job. and to clean up lick your finger and run it along the area you've sealed. makes a smooth perfect finish.

i've been a stone mason for the last 4 years and we use the shit all the time in fitting stone along with silicone.

 

[Nebulous]

Damn it, don't start this. I've been thinking of moding/ sealing parts of my Dragon for a while now, I jsut don't want to butcher it heh.

Let us know how you go and if there's a difference!

 

[DevilJaw]

i dont think totally air sealing can be good, you want the cab to breath a little, once air is built up inside after a few minutes then the speakers move better, with the built up pressure, it acts like a air suspension, it keeps lows fully represented, mids pumped and prevents excessive(damaging) cone movement, thats why closed backs were invented in the first place for vintage(low wattage) styled speakers.

but again, how can you get the air pressure built up without any air going in?

 

[mick thompson]

your cab could blow up like a bomb! all that sound pressure in there! it would be like the loudest metal riff just exploding out onto your audience. let the pressure build up for like half an hour and then let it blow!

woo! i wish thats what happens! cab-bombs!

 

[Meisterjäger]

Cab-bombs

I assume a lot of air can move in through the cardboard cones on the speakers. FWIW, my cab (as most cabs are) is completely covered with tolex anyway, so I'm not sure there's much excess air getting through gaps etc. I won't be caulking the back of the cab, and that's pretty much where the main gaps/seems are. Caulking everywhere else will hopefully just aid in a bit of rigidity and focus the bottom a bit. I think the biggest difference may come from making sure everything is tight, depending on the quality of the fitting the begin with of course.

One thing I really need to get fixed is the pissing caster that will not stay in the hole. Cheap-ass piece of shit! Is there such a thing as a 'standard caster'?

 

[nwright]

IIRC, Bassons are MDF, and they seal everything. I'd think with sealing, the back panel would be the first place to start.

With MDF construction, Eminence speakers and silicone sealing, I have no clue how people dig the Basson cabs, but some do. I've never heard or seen one in person.

As for casters, most cabs use 2" casters. Mesas use 3"