Bass trapping and auralex?

RedDog

Humanoid typhoon
Sep 7, 2010
1,542
0
36
Tulsa, Oklahoma.
I'm in the market for room treatment for my new apartment, do any have suggestions for specific brands (or DIY!) of bass trapping and acoustic absorption/diffusion that you found made the difference?

Also too many threads wanking on how rockwool pwns fiberglass, studio A uses blah blah *cough* GS *cough*, and virtually no advice given on actual placement of absorption panels. This is where I really need the help. I haven't measured my room at all and would definitely need advise here as well.

Acousticians, your expertise is greatly appreciated.
 
OC703 4" and 2" panels (bass traps and reflective points, respectively) put on wooden frames and covered in breathable fabric is all you need for good treatment. Placement and amount depend on the size/shape of the room.
 
Yeah, and find a local source for the 703. You won't find it at home depot (at least not here) but the contractor supply places are priced similarly to the online sources w/o the absurd shipping IME.
 
Egan makes a great point. It's not stocked at Home Depot, Lowes or other similar stores. Call insulation companies around the area or see if you can find a local distributor. If not, the cheapest you'll find it online is [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333764356&sr=8-1"]Amazon[/ame] of all places - $100 shipped for six 2" thick panels.
 
Should I build the frames in a right triangle and mount them in the corners?

I'll cal around a bit tomorrow, Don't think I saw any at my local home depot either. I heard trapping works differently a couple inches away from the wall? And auralex foam doesn't do any good under 1khz. The 4" panels should absorb plenty under 100 hz, correct?
 
Yes, they drop off significantly under 100 but you still get absorption there--and more with an air gap or corner mounted. If you check out the pre-made panels from GIKacoustics.com or atsacoustics.com they should have absorption charts. Your numbers will vary but that should get you in the ballpark.

edit: To answer the first question, I'd just build 2'x4'x4" frames-- you can still mount those in the corners. If you want a cleaner look then cutting some 45 deg. may look nicer but it isn't necessary and if you do nice job on the standards you'll be fine.
 
I did rockwool, because I found it for cheap as shit...five 4" panels for $40. Menards ftw. The only thing that's annoying is rockwool kinda has an odor. Rockwool odor. Don't really know how to explain it. But yeah, apparently rockwool absorbs better in the low end, and is cheaper. I built my own frames for them. The frames was easy. Putting fabric is a pain in the ass. But it was also under 0 degrees outside when I did all of this, so that fucking sucked. But seriously, made a fucking world of difference man. After all said and done, I spent about $300 bucks. And it made a world of difference. I put 2 panels in corners, 2 at the first reflection points, one behind me, one in front of me, and a 4x4 panel on the ceiling above me. Shit sounds tight. Being able to actually hear what's going on in the high end is so nice. Being able to actually hear punch for the first time was pretty sweet. Best $300 i've spent on anything recording related.
 
The problem with rockwool is that the absorption coefficient generally won't be as high and it needs to be put into a solid frame to stay put. This works in superchunks, but for panel-based trapping you want rigid fiberglass like 703 or an equivalent Roxul/other product.

My frames are literally just 1" thick, 2" wide pine boards that I cut to be 2'x4'. I laid the covering material flat on the ground, put the 703 panel on top, laid the wooden frame on top of the 703, folded the material over, and we to town with a staple gun.
 
Actually, Owens Corning 705 is more efficient at trapping Bass frequencies than 703. I've always heard that bass is more difficult to attenuate than mids and highs, hence why I would personally pick 705.

Pop some panels in any 90 degree angles, and your sonic troubles should be cut down significantly. Make sure they're angled slightly, so as to mess up the angles. It helps diffuse the sound waves better. Perhaps angle two walls in (across from each other in a side-by-side fashion, if that makes sense) a bit, and the opposite angled out a bit.
 
When you get into thicker traps (6-8" +) fluffier is better; for thinner panels the denser material.
But sometimes you have to go with what you can get (availability and cost).

An air-gap behind the trap equal to the thickness of it helps a lot, if you have the room. Ie. 2"+2", 4"+4" etc. Drops the effective range about an octave. :)

Remember that a ("normal") room has 12 corners, placing traps in as many as you can helps tremendously.

So called superchunks in the corners made with the fluffier stuff is a very efficient and relatively easy to do.
Cut the material in triangles, stack 'em high, cover with a cloth (preferably nothing shiny/reflective) and you're good to go.
If the material is fluffy enough, it will compress so making shelves every meter or so helps to keep everything in place.

The ceiling above your mix position is a crucial point as well, a 4" panel with a 4" gap works a treat.
Make it large enough or with several panels to cover enough are so that the speakers are "inside".

The ol' mirror-trick is useful when deciding where to place panels, especially on the sides and the ceiling.
While sitting in the mix position, have a friend move a mirror on the walls and everywhere you see the tweeter from either monitor is where a panel should go.

Front wall symmetry is important, so make sure that your monitors are equidistant from the side and front wall(s).
Getting your monitors as close to the front wall as possible is "best" (debatable, let's not go there..).
Placing a panel behind them works to treat the front wall bounce that's causing cancellation(s) to the monitor response.
The closer you get to a boundary, the higher up the dip goes in frequency and therefore easier to treat with thinner panels.
(Note: there's been a huge debate over this @ GS.. :erk:)

However, it seems that the back wall is the most crucial in getting a decent low-freq response in a room so lots of trapping behind the mix position, as thick as you can.
If your room is large enough (most "normal" rooms aren't) you could place diffusors in front of these traps.
Same goes for the possible traps in the corners on the front wall and everywhere else that will not reflect back to the mix position.
Something reflective there will not harm the listening position response but will keep the room from getting too dead.
I've read about using FRK, thin plastic, even cardboard in front of the traps.

If you want to measure your room, Room EQ Wizard (REW) over at www.hometheatershack.com (you need to register first..) comes highly recommended. It's free!
The important stuff to look at are the waterfall and ETC (envelope/energy time curve).
These may or may not help in what you're trying to achieve, since if we're not trying to make a "professional" studio, the answer will still be.. more traps! :p

Phew! I know this seems like a lot, but take as much from it as you want / can and apply to your situation.
Doing at least some acoustic treatment is better than nothing.

Lots of great info @ GS, so don't dismiss it out of hand.

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/stud...tics-treatment-reference-guide-look-here.html
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/stud...basic-acoustic-measurement-primer-v2-1-a.html