I Love Floyds Thread::Show Your Appreciation

Lasse, the gotoh has an allen key socket for exactly what you just described dude, which makes it much greater than the OFR in my experience.
that is exactly the problem....
first of all the arm still gets more and more screwed on/in the more you turn it clockwise, so there is a limit...and second.
I sometimes need the arm to be loose and sometimes to be tight....I don't wanna have to get an allenkey and a flashlight between songs on stage etc just to adjust the arm to my needs.
OFR: just tighten the thing with your fingers to your liking, done in about 0.5 seconds....stays like that (if desired) until you take the arm off to put the axe into the case.
this little allen screw is actually the main reason why I don't like Gotohs.
the only thing more stupid is the trems ibanez builds...on them it's even more PITA to change the tightness of the arm.
also...I usually have the arm rather tight...or actually REALLY tight, that's not possible on the Gotohs without giving a weird and uneven feel if you wanna rotate it (although it's tight)..which makes sense cause it's just a little screw pressing against the bar from only one side (the plastic ring isn't able to distribute the pressure evenly).
and a tight arm on Ibanez? don't even get me started
 
i prefer the action with FRs, my hellraiser has an OFR and my old ESP LTD has a really balanced licensed one, infact its more stable on double bends than the OFR which is awesome! when i have the money i will eventually upgrade it to an OFR however its lasted me 9 years so far and still goin strong!
 
@Notuern: Dude, i didnt have any good experience with Kahlers, except for perhaps the smooth action, although it feels very weird if you are used to knife edge trems. With all the Kahlers i have tried including the latest units if you string bend, eg double stop, the tuning goes out until you reset the trem with a quick dive. It is a flaw in the design of the trem that can't handle the lateral movement of a bend. I was told that you can help remedy it to some degree by adding solder to the string ball ends and putting a hard bend in the string to ensure good seating. But cumon, that just makes me think the unit is a pile of shite...And to top it off the bar has that stupid blob on the end?? Why ?? i can understand in the 70's but hello 21st century - it looks horrible....like it was designed for someone who has a disability in gripping things:lol:

The double stop thing is both true and untrue.. while the way the Flyer model works, it will move slightly out of key when you bend, but if its properly adjusted its not that sensitive.
In fact, i dont even have the bar attached to one of my Flyer-equipped guitars, and i cant remember it moving out of key EVER when bending.

And while we are talking about double stops.. well, you cant even do a double stop on a floyded guitar, because the string above the bended one will also bend.. its a flaw in the design. ;)

Bending/crimping the strings is recommended for ALL tremolo equipped guitars.
This is because the string will always snap it self back at the "hinge" that you create on the string.. and ive only heard that soldering thing in relation to different variations of the Floyds that appeared in the 80's, might help in stability for the Flyer as well though.

And ive owned 4 guitars with the Kahler Flyer, neither of them has had that ball on the tip of the bar.
Ive seen a few Flyer equipped Carvins as well, and neither of them had the ball-end either.. so maybe thats something more typical of the later models(Thats not as good as the Flyer.).
 
Edge Pro 7 - Zero problems
edgew.jpg


I believe this is JT580LP. I have played this Jackson DRX for over 10 years. With a bit of maintenance the trem still works great! I have filed the knife edges a few times and sometimes tighten the screws that attach the baseplate to the sustain block. The tremolo arm and fitting have been replaced.
jt580lp.jpg


This is not floyd, but it was a surprise how well it stays in tune. Locking tuners help a great deal of course with this guitar. I would say the tuning stability is as good as with floyds. The pull up is limited though since there is no routing.
fenderz.jpg
 
@Executioner213: Dude what trem is on the Ibanez? OFR? was it a simple retro fit?
Both of those guitars are from the 90's when Ibanez was using the shitty Lo-TRS bridges in anything under $1k. Lo-TRS was really just another Floyd copy made out of inferior pot brass (not hardened steel).

I bought the JS first, brand new, and had trem problems from the first week I had it. It would never go back to zero, always ended up sharp or flat because the knife edges were fucked. The store I got it from took it back once, said it was fine...pretty sure they knew exactly what was wrong with it, just didn't want to deal with it. They then convinced me to try a trem setter. I absolutely hated it, because I wanted to have a trem I could actually use and do everything a trem was supposed to do. So another guy at another shop said he had an old Original Floyd laying around from some other guitar, he said he'd be willing to see if it would drop in since the Lo-TRS looked like a floyd copy. It fit perfect, so I bought it off him.

Since then, I replaced it with a black one, because I like all black hardware. I bought that RG (it used to be bright metallic blue with a mirrored pickguard when I got it) a couple years after I bought the JS...it's a few years older. Figured I'd have the same problems as the other guitar, so I bought an OFR for it too. Both guitars have EMG 81/85's. I still have that old chrome OFR in a toolbox, waiting for something to put it in.

I also have an Ibanez RG750DX with an Edge bridge in it (from '90 or '91, can't remember) and I always really liked it too. Even if I wanted to replace it, there isn't anything to put in that but another Edge bridge anyways. It got *misplaced* for some time (long story, but I thought it was stolen for like 2 years), and now that I have it back it is missing a couple few parts so it remains in it's case. Now that it has been fucked with, I might get a new pickguard and throw EMG's in that too.
 
@Jind: why the frustration? I don't find anything frustrating about a trem. Once you understand how the thing works your set. Obivously if you are tuning down to A or something you may find it difficult to intonate but general set up for floating just requires a bit of patience. The geeky thing is i actually think trems look really nice. They are a real nice engineering solution where form and function are having the best fuck ever!

Oh, it has nothing to do with knowledge - I'm cool with all aspects of knowing how to - it's just the fact that I have to. There are just those few occassions where I hate them with a passion - while far and few between, I think most players have those moments.

Funny thing to add - when Lasse mentioned the Kahler it made me remember a guitar that I have that has a Kahler Flyer bridge on it - it's a guitar that to be completely honest, I had forgotten about completely - it has been sitting in it's case in the back of my closet for probably 15 plus years.

I just pulled it out and it's peaked my curiosity as it's also a guitar that I cannot for the life of me remember how I came to own. It's a bit of an oddity as it's an Epiphone Superstrat - I have no idea what model, it has an H/S/S configuration with a 5-way switch, and a Kahler Flyer tremolo. I really need to do a little research and find out what model it is. I think it may have been one of my best friends guitar back in the 80's - if I recall he owed me some cash so he gave it to me as colateral - needless to say he never payed me back and I have not spoken to him in probably 10 years. But the guitar has been in my closet since I changed bedroom/offices in my house - moving my office (home studio) into the other spare room.

It needs a restringing obviously (it's got one broken string), but I'm now dying to see how it plays - the action on it is great. It is also missing it's trem arm so I'll need to look for one online or something. I'll get a few pictures taken and see if anyone knows what model it may be.
 
It seems to be an S seireis from my research - one of the higher models if it has the Kahler factory installed, but I can't find any particular designation that included the Kahler factory installed.

Here are some pictures:

100_0372.jpg


100_0373.jpg


100_0374.jpg
 
I just pulled it out and it's peaked my curiosity as it's also a guitar that I cannot for the life of me remember how I came to own. It's a bit of an oddity as it's an Epiphone Superstrat - I have no idea what model, it has an H/S/S configuration with a 5-way switch, and a Kahler Flyer tremolo. I really need to do a little research and find out what model it is. I think it may have been one of my best friends guitar back in the 80's - if I recall he owed me some cash so he gave it to me as colateral - needless to say he never payed me back and I have not spoken to him in probably 10 years. But the guitar has been in my closet since I changed bedroom/offices in my house - moving my office (home studio) into the other spare room.

First guess is a Epiphone Pro II made in either Nashville or Korea(Nashvilles had curved top, Koreans did not.).. if it is a Pro II it should have that ugly Kramer-styled head.
Second guess would be one of those odd-ones made in the Japanese Matsumoku factory.. either way it should be a pretty damn good guitar! :)
 
Also like old jackson`s tremolo (JT6), because of mentioned specs, tunamatic string spacing and built-in capability of fixation (screw in the sustain block on later units). String length adjustment on this tremolo is much easier than on conventional floyds.

Also a great choice. Comes on many of the older jacksons, even custom shops.
 
I have a love/hate relationship with Floyds like many others. On one hand do I really like the feel and the (tuning) stability of a well-made made and set-up Floyd, even If I hardly ever use on with the bar, on the other hand it's just anything but convenient for the reasons we all now.

My personal favourites are the Schaller Floyds. They have everything that make OFRs great, but are IMO slightly superior in some details. Like the different (harder) baseplate. GOTOHs come in on third place for me, OFRs being my 2nd favourite.

As for proprietary Floyds: Made the best experiences with Jackson and Kramer ones (though I think some of them were made by GOTOH).
 
Try lot of floyd design tremolo. Love OFR and Schaller... But actually I only have Schaller trem (2 standards and one low profil).
 
Strange that the locking nut on that Epiphone is more like a locking string tree, I wonder if that bridge was retrofitted in?
 
Here are a few closeups - it certainly looks to be factory installed.

100_0379.jpg


100_0381.jpg
 
Yeah, I'd honestly say the pickguard cut is the biggest indicator, since the beveling of the edges is consistent through it

And honestly, since tuning stability and smoothness of action are the most important trem criteria for me (I can live without flutter), maybe I should consider Kahler trems more seriously...they're real eyesores though IMO
 
Strange that the locking nut on that Epiphone is more like a locking string tree, I wonder if that bridge was retrofitted in?

Thats stock. I have an original BC Rich Bich (USA, low serial) that has a Kahler with a locking nut behind the actual nut. Fantastic setup.

As for BRASS VS. NORMAL blocks below the Floyd bridges. I have 2 guitars that have brass, 4 that have normal blocks, and one that has a HUGE brass block. Just going to brass blocks makes a large difference on sound. Brighter, more sustain, "cleaner" sound. As for the larger blocks, I don't notice a difference between brass vs. more brass. The difference is just going to brass in general. I plan to get standard size brass blocks for all my Floyd guitars.

hope this helps..
 
Anyone showing any love for the Edge Zero trems?

We recorded a band a while ago that brought an Ibanez fitted with one a while ago and it struck me straight away that it was probably the best implementation of the locking Floyd design I had seen to date. Low-profile, with offset clamping bolts (no more slacking the strings to re-intonate!) untooled adjustable spring tension and fully ambidextrous as well.

P1010167.JPG