light weight amp shell material

hoehlentroll

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Mar 15, 2007
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Mannheim, Germany
I planning a 6505+ 112 combo to head conversion and want to build a new headshell to not void the warranty. what would you consider for a rather light weight headshell? carbon, aluminium or light weight wood?
 
I'm pretty sure most manufacturers would consider the warranty void as soon as you pull the amp from it's original shell.
Best you look into that a little bit more if you're working on a brand new combo.
 
actually I bought the combo on purpose to converse it into a head. the combo costs 34% of the head, which sound like an awsome deal. warranty won#t be voided because you can easily put it out of the combo and put it back in, should it breake, and ship it to the manufacturer.
 
The weight isn't in the chassis, its in the transformers and the speaker driver. You're going to spend a lot more than the amp is worth fabbing a carbon or aluminium shell for it. If you're going to tolex it do wood. I'd still say wood for the first pass if you decide to do one of the others since you can nail the dimensions there and then fab it later. One thing I'd be concerned with using aluminium is conductivity.

I did this with my VH140 combo.
vh140_front.jpg
 
Agreed. Stick to wood. Even if you plastic, the cost to mold a one-off would be way too much. While it may weigh even half as much as a wood box we are talking just a couple pounds.

But for woods stay away from MDF, particle board, OSB, and other cheaper woods like that. You can get more strength from thinner cabinet grade wood like Birch ply. Even the same thickness is typically lighter. Carvin uses Poplar plywood for strength and lower weight. But I have never seen it locally.
 
I wouldn't rule out MDF. Its strong and lightweight. If the case is built correctly it will be more than strong enough to hold up to normal wear and tear.

Particle board and OSB, definitely stay away from those materials.
 
MDF also melts when it gets wet and crumbles.

1/2" should be fine if you are worried about weight. You will probably want to use t-nuts or backer pieces of wood though for handles. Just to increase the surface area and and not rely so much on the screw threads.
 
Depends on how rough you'll be with it. If the intent is just to have a studio head with some light travel, even 9mm would be fine. Unless you're going to finish the wood and leave it bare I'd do plywood, it's stronger and more stable than 'hardwood' and less likely to require planing. Are you going to finger or butt joint it? If you use a butt joint add a small brace on the bottom 90's.

If you tolex be sure to take into account the thickness of the tolex in the places you tuck it behind the head and practice the wrapping/cutting technique with a newspaper first.
 
Badass. I desperately need to do this with my 6505 212... fucking thing is like 80 lbs, and some genius decided we would only need one handle on the top.