@ Progpower Photographers / Sponsers with DSLRs

[nailz]

I have a question specifically for shooting at this event: What equipment and settings do you use? I ask because over the past year, I have learned and shot so much that I look back to last year and wonder why I fucked up so many shots that should've been fantastic. Haha. I'm not asking about composition and such, I've figured out a lot of that, I'm just curious to know what everyone else uses and does, information sharing can't be bad!

Last year, I shot with a Canon XTi (400D), 2 4GB Flash Cards, the "nifty fifty" 50mm f/1.8 in all RAW (life saver) burst mode using TV mode @ 1/125 with Autofocus and Auto Focus Points and 1600 ISO. Normally, my aperture (thanks drew, you are such awesome big speller!) was F/1.8, which was fine, but screwed up a lot of focus.

This year, I'll be shooting with the same XTi, plan on picking up at LEAST one more 4GB card*, and renting the 24-70 USM F/2.8L from a local camera shop for more versitility in range. I took that lens out for a drive in San Francisco and fell in love with it. I'm hoping it can hold up in a concert setting as well as it did outside. I'll also be bringing the 50mm with me as well, but it's very obtrusive, especially when doing lobby shots. I again will be shooting in Autofocus, but will be using Manual Focal Points this year. I've learned tricks to using them to focus and then change composition quickly, and will be shooting on full manual mode too, I think. I'll also be bumping down to 1/80s shutterspeed, unless someone tells me that's way too slow to stop action. Of course, all of that depends on lighting.

*I used up both by the time Iced Earth had come on stage, and this was after deleting the crap pictures from the day before.

So, hoping for some input, suggestions, tips and tricks to share between all of us!

 

[Curufin]

I still have a lot to learn as well, but one thing I would strongly suggest on your XTi is to use the Custom Function #4: "Shutter/AE lock button" at setting 3: "AE/AF, no AE lock". This means that you will be using your halfway-shutter-press for auto exposure metering, and your * button for autofocus without any auto exposure lock. When used in conjunction with AI Servo AF mode, it means you can keep your subject's eye in your AF point while holding down the * button and it will maintain focus (as best as any XTi can maintain focus in a concert setting). When you hold down the shutter button halfway, it will maintain the correct† exposure setting without locking down the auto exposure (no AE lock). Very useful in Av mode, since lighting changes so often in a concert setting that locking down your AE at any point will end up ruining lots of photos that are using exposure estimates from the lighting (which was different) a second before you press the shutter release. When using evaluative metering it will weight the metering off of the selected AF point.

Of course, the best thing to do would be to shoot in full manual and take a few test shots at your evaluative metering's exposure suggestion to get an idea of what your settings should be, and just trust your gut. In my experience with the XTi, it can be pretty dumb when metering, so I much prefer to set everything manually and check the pics every so often just to make sure I'm getting good exposures and tweaking the settings accordingly. You should keep the custom function at the same setting, because this still allows you to maintain focus via AI Servo mode by holding down the * button instead of half-pressing the shutter release. Once you get used to it I'm pretty sure you'll never go back.

Very interested to hear others' suggestions as well - especially Esa's!

†In your camera's opinion - it's not always going to be spot-on

 

[Havermout]

Knowing the light conditions at Center Stage (have no doubts they will be less than previous years) you should be ok with the settings you're talking about.

Most gigs (and also during PP europe last year where the light conditions are poorer compared to Atlanta) i uses these settings:
ISO: 1000 (can be changed to 1600 at few occasions)
Shutter: 1/80 (if you have to deal with a ADHD singer it won't be fast enhough, try 1/125)
Metering: spot (when focusing on a face)
AF: single point
Lenses: 1.8 or 2.8 only (and yes, most pics will turn out to be shot with an aperture of 1.8)

This is with my Nikon D300.

The most pics will turn out to be ok, but not good. If you get everything right, the good ones will be excellent. Good luck!


my shots from PP europe 2008
http://www.havermout.net/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=viewcategory&catid=9&Itemid=53


H.

 

[esa]

Old school here: fully manual exposure, test shots to arrive at baseline exposure for prevailing lighting. Single focus point, selected on the fly according to composition (to avoid loss of focus from focal plane shifting when you focus-and-recompose shooting up from the stage pit.) 1/160 or faster is my goal for shutter, and last couple years there hasn't been enough light to achieve that with ISO 1600 and f2.8 zooms. Bring the nifty fifty just in case.

I'm now back to shooting with zooms since my current camera does ISO6400 better than my old one did ISO1600.

Let's see how quickly we'll be booted to the lounge...

 

[Diamond45]

Last year, I shot with a Canon XTi (400D), 2 4GB Flash Cards, the "nifty fifty" 50mm f/1.8 in all RAW (life saver) burst mode using TV mode @ 1/125 with Autofocus and Auto Focus Points and 1600 ISO. Normally, my aperture (thanks drew, you are such awesome big speller!) was F/1.8, which was fine, but screwed up a lot of focus.

I have similar equipment as you. I also have a Canon Rebel Xti (aka 400D) from 2007. I have the stock 18-55 mm lens as well as a recently purchsed 55-250 mm telephoto lens with image stabilizer.

The thing I don't like about that camera is if you leave it in full auto mode, the pictures are way too dark for outdoor pictures, and indoor are a little bit better. In full manual mode, changing the settings on the fly is difficult. I guess once you set it with the appropriate stage lighting you should be set unless you move to a new location (say close or far away from the stage). Or should I use the constant shutter speed mode? (Thanks for all the tips posted so far!)

I'm debating if I'll take pictures in RAW or JPG mode. Though I have two batteries, I only have one 4 GB Compact Flash drive. In JPG mode it can hold a ton of pictures, but don't know about RAW. I'm thinking of getting another 4 GB CF card though.

For post-processing, I've used Corel's Paint Shop Pro for a number of years (currently on version 12). I'm wondering if there's something better for making your so-so pictures look better.

I still need to really learn how to better use the camera. So many features on it that I still need to fully understand.

 

[JenniferLynn]

Speaking of cameras - are all of them banned except for the official photographers??

I'd really like to bring my mom's tiny digital camera to take pics of friends this year.. If I gotta pay the fee to do so, fine, but I was just wondering what the status was...

 

[esa]

Speaking of cameras - are all of them banned except for the official photographers??.

From the slightly dated FAQ:

Q: What about photography?
A: Only flash photography is allowed.
[...]
I have come to the decision that only film photography will be allowed from now on. The only exceptions to the rule are press and sponsors and even they will have to carry a special badge after Todd personally inspects their cameras.
[...]

It means "only film" where it says "only flash."

 

[nailz]

I'm now back to shooting with zooms since my current camera does ISO6400 better than my old one did ISO1600.

Let's see how quickly we'll be booted to the lounge...

Don't even tell me you've got a MK 2

 

[Wyvern]

From the slightly dated FAQ:



It means "only film" where it says "only flash."

Yeah pity since I have not interest in pics of the acts, I'm there to see the show.
But I like to have pics of my mates and maybe some of the band members after the signing session. Meaning I will have to carry my digital camera to use outside and buy a film disposable one for the inside and pray the pic comes out right

 

[esa]

Friendly reminder, from the same aforementioned FAQ:

This is a closed matter. I will also delete any new threads or posts on the subject in the forum as well. It is not open to discussion or debate as I do not want a repeat of the flame wars from last time.

 

[nailz]

I have similar equipment as you. I also have a Canon Rebel Xti (aka 400D) from 2007. I have the stock 18-55 mm lens as well as a recently purchsed 55-250 mm telephoto lens with image stabilizer.

Don't even bother bringing that 55-250. It won't be for shit inside. In fact, the Kit lens will probably also suck a big bag of shit. Invest $100 from B and H Photo and get the 50mm f/1.8

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-GREY/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html

Seriously. Get it.

In full manual mode, changing the settings on the fly is difficult. I guess once you set it with the appropriate stage lighting you should be set unless you move to a new location (say close or far away from the stage). Or should I use the constant shutter speed mode? (Thanks for all the tips posted so far!)

I've been shooting in full manual now for about 9 months, and find changing on the fly is much much easier. If you do need quick control, The shutterspeed (TV) may be good, you won't have to screw with the settings much on the fly, but really, once you find out what works, I found last year I didn't need to tinker much.

I'm debating if I'll take pictures in RAW or JPG mode. Though I have two batteries, I only have one 4 GB Compact Flash drive. In JPG mode it can hold a ton of pictures, but don't know about RAW. I'm thinking of getting another 4 GB CF card though.

You're going to want to shoot in RAW, I promise. RAW had saved so many wonderful pictures that would've been fucked if I used JPEG, that it's totally worth the space. CF cards are so unbelievably cheap that it shouldn't even be a question. FYI: I didn't even burn through one battery taking ~450 pictures a night, but I always have a spare just in case.

For post-processing, I've used Corel's Paint Shop Pro for a number of years (currently on version 12). I'm wondering if there's something better for making your so-so pictures look better.

I use Photoshop CS3. It's intimidating, and I certainly don't use it to it's full potential, but it works awesome for what I need it to do.

I still need to really learn how to better use the camera. So many features on it that I still need to fully understand.

Lol, don't feel bad man, believe me, you always should have a camera you can grow with. Which is why I feel it's time for me to upgrade. I'm looking at a Canon 50D myself and should have one before next year.

@Jennifer: Sponors are allowed to bring in DSLR's, everyone else, as Esa said, film only.

@esa: Definitely plan on bringing the 50mm just for kicks. It did well last year and I'm not ready to give it up for the L series exculsively.

@Haver: Thanks for the suggestions. I don't know if the XTi can be set for 1000 ISO, but I don't think that's a strong enough sensitivity for PPUSA @ F/2.8

 

[nailz]

Yeah pity since I have not interest in pics of the acts, I'm there to see the show.

So are we, but to a certain few of us, being able to capture moments like this makes having a camera worth it, and certainly does not take away from my enjoyment at all.

BTW, Diamond: all of my shots from PP9 were taken with that lens I linked you.

 

[Curufin]

I'm debating if I'll take pictures in RAW or JPG mode. Though I have two batteries, I only have one 4 GB Compact Flash drive. In JPG mode it can hold a ton of pictures, but don't know about RAW. I'm thinking of getting another 4 GB CF card though.

For post-processing, I've used Corel's Paint Shop Pro for a number of years (currently on version 12). I'm wondering if there's something better for making your so-so pictures look better.

I still need to really learn how to better use the camera. So many features on it that I still need to fully understand.

RAW, please! You're throwing away a large advantage of using the XTi if you shoot in JPEG only. There's a reason RAWs are larger: they contain more (and uncompressed) information about your photo. This means that photos which would otherwise be lost in JPEG can be salvaged using the info stored in the RAW file.

I would recommend trying Digital Photo Professional, which came (for free) with your camera and is actually a pretty powerful piece of software for editing and tweaking RAW files. It's not the most flexible of programs, but I just used it extensively for all of my photos from Europe this summer, and it was more than able to handle most of what I needed it to do and helped me turn otherwise-bland photos into eye-catchers.

CF cards are super cheap, and once you see the power of the RAW file format you'll wonder why you ever shot in JPEG

 

[esa]

Don't even tell me you've got a MK 2

Fear not: I enjoyed my two years in Canon-land, but I have now returned to Nikon (D700.) Personal subjective preference, both are amazing cameras.

Invest $100 from B and H Photo and get the 50mm f/1.8

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-GREY/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html

Seriously. Get it.

Seconded, with the caveat that you have to be up front and close to the stage -- that focal length won't do much from the seats. But you'll have around two f-stop advantage over your kit zoom: where your zoom would get a blurry shot with, say 1/20th of a second shutter, the 50mm would get the same exposure with 1/80th of a second.

 

[nailz]

Also, you can do a 6 shot burst in RAW as well on the XTi.

 

[esa]

There's a reason RAWs are larger: they contain more (and uncompressed) information about your photo. This means that photos which would otherwise be lost in JPEG can be salvaged using the info stored in the RAW file.

Recap

 

[Wyvern]

So are we, but to a certain few of us, being able to capture moments like this makes having a camera worth it, and certainly does not take away from my enjoyment at all.

I can't answer you here due to the fact well pointed by Esa above. I tried to sent you a PM but you have it blocked. If you care you can PM me and I expand my viewpoint.

 

[nailz]

Nah it's cool. I know your point of view, I can understand why you think taking pictures can detract from a show, and I respect it. My PM's aren't blocked, they're just all screwed up. I don't know why they don't, or haven't worked. If you really and truely feel like you need to expand on it, you can email me at nailz1000 at gmail dawt cawm .

 

[Wyvern]

Nah it's cool. I know your point of view, I can understand why you think taking pictures can detract from a show, and I respect it. My PM's aren't blocked, they're just all screwed up. I don't know why they don't, or haven't worked. If you really and truely feel like you need to expand on it, you can email me at nailz1000 at gmail dawt cawm .

Alright I will

 

[Curufin]

Recap

Sweet, I hadn't seen that thread until now. You do a much better job of summing up the advantages of RAW.

And just for a quick visual of what's possible with raw:

Before

And after post-processing the RAW file:

It's definitely not the best one can do with RAW (especially in just the minute or two I spent on this example), and I still have a lot to learn about all the capabilities and power of post-processing RAW images. I know the post-processed pic is far from perfect; it's just to give you an idea of the abilities one gets with the RAW file format. I can however guarantee you would never get anything near that level of recovery with just a JPEG straight out of your camera. Hope this helps!