Car Stereo Set up for the Metal Head???

I'm a car-audiophile, so all the misinformation in this thread makes me want to delete posts even though I can't.

First off and most importantly: no stereo is "complete" without a (or multiple) subwoofers. Period.

Secondly: the rest of the sound-stage is often overlooked by most people who invest in a sub/amp combo. the highs and mids are just as, if not more important; than the sub-stage. Playing guitar through an amp that just has a ton of low-end and minimal mid/high end is going to sound stupid right? Same principle applies here.

Third: my most pet-peeve misconception is; the larger diameter speaker, the less accurate it will be.
absolutely, 110%, completely false. accurate sound reproduction of a speaker has everything to do with the structural integrity of the motor assembly and suspension of the speaker. I own a sub for my car (though it isn't in there currently) that came in an 8", 10", 12", and 15" diameter. all were the same model speaker and all used the same motor. all had the same power handling properties (obviously, because they all used the same voice coils, magnets, suspension [aside from size due to speaker diameter, but the properties remained the same], etc etc etc), and so forth. I can guarantee that the 15" is every single bit as accurate as the 8".

fourth: when building a stereo system, it's "10% product (your actual speaker and amplifier), 90% install (the efficiency and strength of your enclosure)"
basically this means that you can put fantastic gear into a piss-poor enclosure and it will sound horrible. you can conversely put shitty gear into a stout, well built, properly tuned (if ported) enclosure and it will sound extremely impressive. especially considering the gear is next to shit.
another important aspect of good clarity is being able to tune your amplifier properly. most people will crank the gain (sensitivity) switch, as well as the bass boost; thus the booming, inaccurate, shitty sound reproduction. there are proper ways to set these things, as well as crossover frequencies (which are equally important), and 90% of the population that own car audio systems probably have no idea how to make use of them properly. the gain is not a volume dial.

alright, now that that's out of the way, onto the whole "brand debate". what's good and what isn't? just as with anything else, it's all about your ear and what sounds good to you. JL is a great company, as was previously mentioned, and make gear that, in the right enclosure; will sound fantastic. personally I think they're quite over-priced and over-hyped, but that's my opinion. I won't say they don't make good gear though. just find what you like, really.

6x9s aren't a bad choice, but aren't an optimal one. just by the asymmetrical design of that speaker, they can't be as efficient as a circular-shaped speaker. a good 6.5" component set in the front and a single, efficient sub in the back will probably do you just fine. with sufficient power going to both the front stage and the rear stage, of course.

now, the metal disclaimer:
as everyone knows, there are some wonderfully produced metal albums, and there are some metal albums where the production is downright god-awful. this will be reflected 10x in your upgraded stereo system, be it one or the other.
a well-produced album will be completely rediscovered upon listening to it on a good stereo, and you'll notice a ton of subtleties that you never acknowledged before; even if it's your favorite album. tom drum sustains, cymbal subtleties you'd never picked up on, being able to hear and feel the actual tone of the bass drum, snappy bass that actually comes from the snare drum, bass notes that can't be reproduced properly by shitty speakers, and just an overall fullness and richness that enhances the listening experience beyond belief.
subsequently, on say a really badly produced black metal album; the bass drum frequency might be cut off completely and the sub will have little to no reactivity, the shrieking highs will be disgustingly present (you'll probably hear even more white noise than before since the frequency response of the speakers are now a lot better than your previous ones), and so on and so forth. so it's a double-edged sword in that respect.

my advice to you is to try to find someone who knows what they're doing and talking about with car stereo (which is fairly difficult to come by), and try to listen to some of your favorite music on a good stereo and figure out what you might like in a setup. and, as with anything, reading a lot is good starting place for a solid foundation.
 
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I'm a car-audiophile, so all the misinformation in this thread makes me want to delete posts even though I can't.

First off and most importantly: no stereo is "complete" without a (or multiple) subwoofers. Period.

Secondly: the rest of the sound-stage is often overlooked by most people who invest in a sub/amp combo. the highs and mids are just as, if not more important; than the sub-stage. Playing guitar through an amp that just has a ton of low-end and minimal mid/high end is going to sound stupid right? Same principle applies here.

Third: my most pet-peeve misconception is; the larger diameter speaker, the less accurate it will be.
absolutely, 110%, completely false. accurate sound reproduction of a speaker has everything to do with the structural integrity of the motor assembly and suspension of the speaker. I own a sub for my car (though it isn't in there currently) that came in an 8", 10", 12", and 15" diameter. all were the same model speaker and all used the same motor. all had the same power handling properties (obviously, because they all used the same voice coils, magnets, suspension [aside from size due to speaker diameter, but the properties remained the same], etc etc etc), and so forth. I can guarantee that the 15" is every single bit as accurate as the 8".

fourth: when building a stereo system, it's "10% product (your actual speaker and amplifier), 90% install (the efficiency and strength of your enclosure)"
basically this means that you can put fantastic gear into a piss-poor enclosure and it will sound horrible. you can conversely put shitty gear into a stout, well built, properly tuned (if ported) enclosure and it will sound extremely impressive. especially considering the gear is next to shit.
another important aspect of good clarity is being able to tune your amplifier properly. most people will crank the gain (sensitivity) switch, as well as the bass boost; thus the booming, inaccurate, shitty sound reproduction. there are proper ways to set these things, as well as crossover frequencies (which are equally important), and 90% of the population that own car audio systems probably have no idea how to make use of them properly. the gain is not a volume dial.

alright, now that that's out of the way, onto the whole "brand debate". what's good and what isn't? just as with anything else, it's all about your ear and what sounds good to you. JL is a great company, as was previously mentioned, and make gear that, in the right enclosure; will sound fantastic. personally I think they're quite over-priced and over-hyped, but that's my opinion. I won't say they don't make good gear though. just find what you like, really.

6x9s aren't a bad choice, but aren't an optimal one. just by the asymmetrical design of that speaker, they can't be as efficient as a circular-shaped speaker. a good 6.5" component set in the front and a single, efficient sub in the back will probably do you just fine. with sufficient power going to both the front stage and the rear stage, of course.

now, the metal disclaimer:
as everyone knows, there are some wonderfully produced metal albums, and there are some metal albums where the production is downright god-awful. this will be reflected 10x in your upgraded stereo system, be it one or the other.
a well-produced album will be completely rediscovered upon listening to it on a good stereo, and you'll notice a ton of subtleties that you never acknowledged before; even if it's your favorite album. tom drum sustains, cymbal subtleties you'd never picked up on, being able to hear and feel the actual tone of the bass drum, snappy bass that actually comes from the snare drum, bass notes that can't be reproduced properly by shitty speakers, and just an overall fullness and richness that enhances the listening experience beyond belief.
subsequently, on say a really badly produced black metal album; the bass drum frequency might be cut off completely and the sub will have little to no reactivity, the shrieking highs will be disgustingly present (you'll probably hear even more white noise than before since the frequency response of the speakers are now a lot better than your previous ones), and so on and so forth. so it's a double-edged sword in that respect.

my advice to you is to try to find someone who knows what they're doing and talking about with car stereo (which is fairly difficult to come by), and try to listen to some of your favorite music on a good stereo and figure out what you might like in a setup. and, as with anything, reading a lot is good starting place for a solid foundation.

Good info...

Yeah I've been reading a bit on Consumer Reports for information and ideas for what I should go for. I went to a Sound Advise a few years back when I was interested in upgrading my system and they guys there didn't seem really knowledgable, I could tell they were trying to sound like they really knew their stuff but it was clear they didn't know how to help me.

There's a few places I heard that are good and I'll try them once I get back home and see if they can help me out.

Thanks for the reply.
 
you're better listening to music at home honestly... there is tons of noise in a car... if your music isn't recorded in a pro studio, you'll loose much of the music.

especially if you listen to raw black metal.
 
rofl

Yeah I was gonna say I have a truck I drive with a half burnt out tape player and that's fine for BM.

On a side note I would probably pass out if I saw someone driving a Lexus and blaring Darkthrone. It just seems ironic...
 
haha I agree most BM is trebbly as fuck. New Dimmu sounds killer on my system tho', some nice bass on that cd. Ive got 3- 10"JLaudio subs in trunk of my 87 droptop Mustang. The faces people give me when Im blaring V:28, Thurisaz, Dimmu is priceless
 
LOL Yes, I get those faces too, usually from the double bass and blast beats in things like Aurora Borealis and Belphegor. Those aren't as trebly as the traditional black metal, more middle scooped than anything.
 
I put Dying Fetus - Killing on Adrenaline in my friends car which is set up for rap. It was one of the most retarded sounding things ever.
 
One of the best things I've done to improve my mid-range (which is generally best for metal - especially loud) is to have my subs running from the rear output.I got a deck (Sony X-Plode) that has a sub output, and I couldn't get a decent mid-range and ended up with high/low range (which sucks for metal!). I've yet to get a decent sound running my subs through the sub output. I just skip it and run my subs through the rear output. Front and rear outputs are all that is needed for a decent mid-range.

I've got 2-12" subs and a 750watt Pioneer amp for the rear and 4-6X9's running through 2-500watt Sony amps. Though I've got plenty I want to do to improve my system still...
 
haha I agree most BM is trebbly as fuck. New Dimmu sounds killer on my system tho', some nice bass on that cd. Ive got 3- 10"JLaudio subs in trunk of my 87 droptop Mustang. The faces people give me when Im blaring V:28, Thurisaz, Dimmu is priceless

My god, yes. I love In Sorte Diaboli.

I got some interesting looks while blaring Vader in my primarily Mexican/Black hip-hop-loving neighborbood. I loved it. :)
 
My god, yes. I love In Sorte Diaboli.

I got some interesting looks while blaring Vader in my primarily Mexican/Black hip-hop-loving neighborbood. I loved it. :)
Lol. Dont you love when those skidmarks on society blare their talentless self-empowering rapshit at the gasstation when your pumping gas? ...like they want EVERYONE to hear the new Bubba Sparx or whateverthefuck. Next time Im at the pump Im going to drop the top and crank Drown the inland Mere from Novembers Doom to eleven(my knob goes to eleven:lol: )
 
I know this is forum necromancy, but I believe this topic deserves much more attention. There are many opinions in this thread, and some are good, but some are bad. But of course that is my opinion as well.

The reason I think this is a very relevant topic, today is because of how technology has changed as far as amplification. So many manufacturers have switched to Class D and other, new alternatives to cover the low-frequency range. Personally, I wouldn't use anything less than traditional Class A/B for everything. (If it were less expensive to get pure Class A amplification in a car, I'd do it, but ahem!) Now, one can argue that there is a lot of efficiency loss if running everything in Class A/B, but since we are focusing more on musicality then upsetting the neighborhood with muddled bass, we don't need high-powered drivers and amplifiers.

That said, I feel that one of the most neglected areas, and less understood, are power needs. It's common to find people believing that they need an amplifier that has the same maximum wattage as the driver they are using. Even more often, people think they can't add an aftermarket amplifier to power their factory speakers. Obviously, there is typically, much to gain by using say, a 100W aftermarket amplifier to power the factory speakers. Your factory drivers may only be rated at 15W max., but all that means is you can't turn the volume knob up as high before they destroy themselves in some way. However, the benefit is that the high-power amplifier can have much better control of the weaker speaker. It absolutely, will not be muddy due to a weak amplifier.

The wall you will run into, next will be the frequency response of the factory drivers. I've seen examples of factory speakers who don't respond any higher than somewhere between 16kHz-18kHz. Just because human hearing extends to 20kHz, doesn't mean your musical tastes will require this; we aren't listening to test CD's, we're listening to music. However, there are still some factory setups which fall very short in the mid-range and upper-range. I won't even touch on bass because they almost always fall short in that area. But it's much more acceptable to miss out on some of the low-end from Angra's "Rebirth" than the vocals of Dio's "Gypsy".

So as a rule of thumb, I would suggest using over-amplification. This isn't difficult with factory speakers in most non-luxury cars. If you're driving a Dodge Grand Caravan that has the 10-speaker infinity system, then it's a little more complicated to replace, but I'm assuming we're talking about the factory rig in your 90's Jetta or S10. Quite honestly, just upgrading to an aftermarket deck could give you the same results because the typical 40W max. per channel is more than enough to properly handle those 10W 5-1/4" mid-bass drivers in your doors, and the 5W tweeters in your dash. You get the idea.

I have to agree, very strongly with the poster who previously mentioned the addition of 6x9's. I have purchased cars, in the past, where the previous owner had added an aftermarket deck and speakers, part of which were the 6x9's added to the rear package tray, and used for low-end fill. I didn't even feel the need to add a subwoofer to this rig because all my heavy metal, EDM, Classic rock, had great low-end with the 6x9's in the rear. This was in a '93 Acura Legend, to give you an idea of the cabin space.

Anyway, this is just my two-cents, and I welcome any criticism, constructive or otherwise, as I am always learning, and don't claim to be a pro at any of this.
 
I know this is forum necromancy, but I believe this topic deserves much more attention. There are many opinions in this thread, and some are good, but some are bad. But of course that is my opinion as well.

The reason I think this is a very relevant topic, today is because of how technology has changed as far as amplification. So many manufacturers have switched to Class D and other, new alternatives to cover the low-frequency range. Personally, I wouldn't use anything less than traditional Class A/B for everything. (If it were less expensive to get pure Class A amplification in a car, I'd do it, but ahem!) Now, one can argue that there is a lot of efficiency loss if running everything in Class A/B, but since we are focusing more on musicality then upsetting the neighborhood with muddled bass, we don't need high-powered drivers and amplifiers.

That said, I feel that one of the most neglected areas, and less understood, are power needs. It's common to find people believing that they need an amplifier that has the same maximum wattage as the driver they are using. Even more often, people think they can't add an aftermarket amplifier to power their factory speakers. Obviously, there is typically, much to gain by using say, a 100W aftermarket amplifier to power the factory speakers. Your factory drivers may only be rated at 15W max., but all that means is you can't turn the volume knob up as high before they destroy themselves in some way. However, the benefit is that the high-power amplifier can have much better control of the weaker speaker. It absolutely, will not be muddy due to a weak amplifier.

The wall you will run into, next will be the frequency response of the factory drivers. I've seen examples of factory speakers who don't respond any higher than somewhere between 16kHz-18kHz. Just because human hearing extends to 20kHz, doesn't mean your musical tastes will require this; we aren't listening to test CD's, we're listening to music. However, there are still some factory setups which fall very short in the mid-range and upper-range. I won't even touch on bass because they almost always fall short in that area. But it's much more acceptable to miss out on some of the low-end from Angra's "Rebirth" than the vocals of Dio's "Gypsy".

So as a rule of thumb, I would suggest using over-amplification. This isn't difficult with factory speakers in most non-luxury cars. If you're driving a Dodge Grand Caravan that has the 10-speaker infinity system, then it's a little more complicated to replace, but I'm assuming we're talking about the factory rig in your 90's Jetta or S10. Quite honestly, just upgrading to an aftermarket deck could give you the same results because the typical 40W max. per channel is more than enough to properly handle those 10W 5-1/4" mid-bass drivers in your doors, and the 5W tweeters in your dash. You get the idea.

I have to agree, very strongly with the poster who previously mentioned the addition of 6x9's. I have purchased cars, in the past, where the previous owner had added an aftermarket deck and speakers, part of which were the 6x9's added to the rear package tray, and used for low-end fill. I didn't even feel the need to add a subwoofer to this rig because all my heavy metal, EDM, Classic rock, had great low-end with the 6x9's in the rear. This was in a '93 Acura Legend, to give you an idea of the cabin space.

Anyway, this is just my two-cents, and I welcome any criticism, constructive or otherwise, as I am always learning, and don't claim to be a pro at any of this.

Thats exactly what a car audio company told me today when I said I wanna improve my sound further. Im currently using Focal 165AS, a 2*12" subwoofer with a Crunch GTO3750, factory headunit

Speakers: 60w RMS
Amp: 2 * 75 watt/4 ohms.

I wanna play louder but mostly, I want to be able to change the treble more. When I do I get sound distortion. :/ Im a, "treble-fanboy" currently set my EQ in car to treble +5 of 5, middle -2 and bass 0. I would love way higher treble than that tbh and be able to play a little higher. I also have a 9 band EQ on my phone.

They told me its a very good idea to have way more watt available than "whats needed", in those scenarios its needed, and also to better control the sound.