Yeah, changing (just) the preamp tubes, especially in that particular amp, probably won't do much. You'll find 12AX7's that don't run quite as hot, or that run a little hotter than what you are used. But, that's got nothing to do with tone, just drive. For the most part, a 12AX7 is a 12AX7, even though I prefer Ruby's. Now... If you truly want to change the TONE of the amp, you'll have to change the Power tubes. My recommendation would be either Ruby's or JJ's (or the hand-picked Ruby/JJ series). Mesa tubes are OK, but you can spend the same money on much higher quality tubes. Mesa buys their tubes from one of the other guys (can't remember who), but I can assure you that they DON'T get first/top shelf/pick-of-the-litter.
As far as the type of tubes... if you want to retain punchy, tight response, with that extra overhead, and dark mid-range (Testament/Nevermore), then stick with the 6L6GC's... If you want it to loosen up on you a little, maybe a little more raw, saturated distortion, and brighter mid-range (Exodus/Carcass), you can switch to EL34's. Mullard-style EL34's are nice for transitioning. They have very "middle of the road" characteristics between standard EL34's and 6L6's.