Is it worth it to raise the nut?

[AD Chaos]

Hello all,

I've been wondering about how convenient would it be to try this on a couple of guitars, to raise the nut by 1mm -or even 2mm- so as to get a lower overall action, because the bow on the neck (or a less-than-perfect fretwork) makes the string-to-fret distance uneven across the guitars (how normal is that to happen?)

Anyway, I think by raising the nut a bit above the stock setting the strings could maybe vibrate more freely (or even resonate a bit more?) and I could lower the bridge and improve playability -while avoiding fret buzz, of course- even if the arm's curve or the fretwork are less than stellar jobs. Is it advisable to file the nut (widening the holes for the strings in it) as well?

I've seen this mentioned here and there but it's not clear to me, do you guys make a habit of raising or adjusting the nut beyond factory settings?
How exactly is that work done? (as in what do you use to remove it without damaging any finishes, increase its height, and glue it, or put it back on?


Thanks much for your advice and opinions

 

[ViTAR]

Raising the nut too much you'll have intonation problems on the first frets.
So experiment with it.

 

[guitarfishbay]

If the fretwork isn't good then you'll always be compromising here. It sounds like you might get best results taking the guitar to a tech for a fret level and set up IMHO.

 

[newamerikangospel]

Unless it's a Floyd rose nut, you won't raise it, you will need to get a new nut and have a tech file the string slots.

Raising the nut should only really help with open string buzz, and a little with 1st thru 3rd fret buzz. Too high, and it will feel like running through sand to play the lower frets. A lot of people like to deepen the nut slots a bit, trading that little bit of buzz for a more buttery feeling when playing close to the nut. A bad neck bow won't be fixed with success by any other thing than fixing the neck bow, and a tech should be able to level/recrown frets pretty cheaply. Is it just not setup properly (truss rod)? An actual wood neck bow issue fix takes time but can be done.

 

[TheWinterSnow]

As a rule of thumb like mentioned previously, nut height on has an effect on open chords. Ideally you want the nut the be as high as the next fret is to the following, giving you a more even feel from the open fret to the first fret relative to the other fretted notes. Also keeping the nut low helps with intonation as again mentioned and helps reduce the fatigue of string tension, you can actually go a lot higher in string tension and not feel it until you go for a bend.

If you are having fret buzz issues on the lower frets, its a trussrod/fret crown problem. Getting the frets reworked will do wonders, even allow you to get lower action without fret buzz. Thicker strings can help to as they wont have as much excursion. Don't rule out as well the effect on buzz by the pickups, they have a magnetic pull that pulls the string downward, not only killing sustain but making the string more likely to vibrate slightly in the direction of the frets, meaning you will need more space to keep from fret buzz, this is a bigger deal if you are using high output power passive pickups.

 

[AD Chaos]

Thanks guys for all this info, very useful

I actually have an appointment tomorrow morning with a luthier who I think has a good idea about refretting (from what I spoke with him couple years ago, anyway).
The fretwork on the guitar is clearly the problem, the action is a bit high, but I actually like it that way for strumming chords (which is what I end up doing most of the time on it). The gtr is a 6 str, has a FloydRose and active SD pups btw.

One thing I'm on the fence about is how the arm (including the fretboard) has this lacquered finish all through its back and sides, and hammering the frets -even gently- makes dents/fractures on the finish. I don't know if I must sacrifice this lacquer thing or if can be either reapplied, or left unscathed somehow after some fret work.
I once tried to hammer the 16th fret GENTLY to try and push it down, and the lacquer got fractured below the fret Not the wood, just the lacquered finish above it.

There's fret buzz all over the 6th string, specially when playing the 15th and 18th frets. I use somewhat thick strings (12-52) on C standard, with a scale of 25.5''.

Here's a pic of the problematic area, you can see a bit that the frets are uneven (sorry about the crap shoot, I haven't had time to take a picture during daytime):

Is there a special kind -or brand- or frets I should be looking for?

Thanks again everyone

 

[Delitzsch]

Is there a special kind -or brand- or frets I should be looking for?

Jumbo 6100 stainless.

 

[Spectivum]

Check the Warmoth site for usual fret types and their codes.

 

[varobinson]

I have felt exactly as you do re: the nut slots.

I suspect most factory nuts are cut based on very light strings like 9s or 10s and are too low for thicker strings and you get the inevitable open string or frets 1-5 fretbuzz when downtuning a bit. The nut concerns the open notes and frets 1-5 as I'm told and after that it's the bridge action.

I understand intonation and trussrod adjustment are considerations. Of course the pickups typically won't pick up the fretbuzz if it's that far down the neck.

I had a Schechter blackjack that a luthier put some bonedust filler in the nut slot for the low E string which I know is not the best solution. He'd adjust the trossrod with no effect. Honestly I got what I wanted out of it -- less or no buzz on that string and the intonation was fine afterwards.

 

[Terminus]

You can buy a replacement nut and have it installed by the luthier. Might be time for it anyway, the stock ones do wear out over time.

 

[AD Chaos]

Well I already took the guitar to the luthier, he looked at it and coincided that some fret work was needed. The frets won't be replaced as he said they were (still) decent enough, but instead he's going to sand down the protruding one(s). The action on the guitar was OK with me and he said the same, I'm not looking for some super low profile since I do mostly just chords on this guitar.

He told me he uses some boutique dutch frets that were better than regular SS for replacement jobs, but I guess doing just some alignment work on mine is going to be easier/cheaper. I'm going to see how the nut behaves afterwards, but it seems like this was a frets problem.