Setting up your Guitars for recording

zirkonflex

You name it
Aug 12, 2008
522
0
16
Northern Germany
Setting up your guitars for recording

Why does my guitar not sound as awesome as the clips the guys on the board are posting ?
How can people with cheap-ass gear have such great guitar tones ?


Some guys tend to have problems with setting up the instruments in oder to get a good sound out of them for recording, so I figured I would do a quick guide that will hopefully be helpfull and interesting to recording newcomers.
I will mainly cover the preperation of a guitar for a good recording.

1. Strings

Assuming you have already chosen your guitar, pickups and bridge to your liking and style the most important factor here are the strings.
This is still a question of taste in most cases, although some general things can be said regarding the gauges.
Your strings should be somewhere around this (low E string):

E: 0.46-0.50
D: 0.50-0.54
C: 0.54-0.56
B: >0.56
A: >0.60

An important factor of the string tension is your guitars's scale length (In most cases 25.5 or 24.75, sometimes 27-29).
In general the shorter the scale, the less tension is on the string if youre using the same gauge.
If youre for example switching from a 25.5 scale guitar to a 24.75, you might wan't to add some thing around 0.02-0.05 of thickness to your strings depending on your liking.

The sound of your guitar will change with the tension, a low tension generally sounds more "ballsy" and crunchy, but a low tension can get noisy and hard to play (especially fast), and the opposite. You should avoid tuning lower than D with your standard strings.


2. Guitar Setup

The guitar has to be setup well for a nice recording, and your don't need to be a tech to do this.
The first thing is always going to be the height of the bridge.
Adjust it in a way that its comfortable playing it, don't have the action to high, it will be harder to play.
Now to the trussrod (Screw on the headstock of the guitar, usually hidden under a black plate). Turn it it slowly (!) with the supplied tool that came with your guitar until your neck is slightly bowed inwards. To check, press down (or capo) the first and the last fret of your lowest string and look at the 10th fret.
The distance between the low side of the string an the top of the fret (the fret, not the fingerboard) should be somewhat around 0.5 mm (Since youre a guitarist you can easily measure this with picks, their thickness is usualy written on the side, you can also use a check card, it has somewhat the same width).
There are a lot of tutorials for trussrod adjustments on the web, just google it if you encounter any problems or have never that it before.
You might have to adjust the height of the bridge again as it chages with the bow of the neck.
You will now have to adjust the hight of your pickups to your liking, there is usually a sweetspot between hitting it with the string and don't getting enough output (practically "gain").


3. Preperation and avoiding noise

Vibration is noise.
Fix everything (tighten the tuning Pegs an electronics), nothing should rattle or vibrate on the guitar except for the strings.
Now it depends on the type of bridge youre using.
If its somewhat of a tune-o-matic there are two critical spots of noise that will fuck up your recording when using somewhat high gain.
The first and most important is between the nut and the tuning pegs.
Its the area that makes the high string noise when you slip your finger over it.
These "little strings" will vibrate with the rest of the guitar upon strumming and make irritating squeaky noises.
Now the almighty paper towel comes into play.
Just take one piece of it and roll it together until it becomes turd.
Put this thing around the strings over the nut and knot its end together on the back of the neck.
It looks retarded but it helps.
I have seen people doing the wierdest stuff to their guitars up there (putting tape on the strings or glueing sponge material to the neck), but this method takes three seconds and works perfectly.
Just don't let the actual strings under the nut be touched by it.
No you can form another turd, fold it in the middle and jam it under the strings behind the bridge to dead'n them there too.
You can use a pen for pushing it under there if it doesn't work on first try.

On a floyd rose style bridge you just do the same to the area over the nut, but a new factor of noise comes in: the springs of the bridge.
They basically act as a "spring reverb" :)D) and have to be stopped from vibrating all the time.
This is very important and huge factor of noise on recording as it makes it impossible to actually stop the strings after playing.
A wierd "reverb" sound will occur and blur your stops and spaces in between notes.
To solve the problem something will have to touch the strings all the time and prevent them from vibrating.
you can do this with paper towels to, but I tend to youse cleaning sponges and cut them into the right size as they are a lot more dense then the towels and last longer.
Just find out what works for you.

jam2ee3s.jpg
"Knot turd" obove the trussrod
jam1qgqp.jpg
Fixing the bridge (stop tailpiece) on my Ninja.
jam31czz.jpg
The Floyd cavity of my Agile 7 String V.

All these steps should hopefully enable you to record nicer and cleaner guitar tracks in the future.
Some info might be redundand and boring to experienced players, but this mainly for noobs.
Oh, excuse my suck-ass English skillz, I hope you understand atleast something.
Greetings, Max.
 
Sorry fot this, but more long is the scale of your guitar, less tension you have.....you have said the opposite....
 
No, that's make a lot of sense to me, lorger scale let you to use bigger string due to the fact that the tension in the neck are less than a shorter scale.
Try yourself, put a 56 in a 25,5 inch and tune it to C, then put in shorter scale at the same tunning.....
 
Im sorry, but you guys are completely wrong.
Its about the tension in the string, and its less on shorter scale resulting in a "looser" feel.
Longer string means slower vibration and lower note, thats the physics behind it.
In your world I would be able to tune an okulele down to G and go all Deathcore with it.
 
Im sorry, but you guys are completely wrong.
Its about the tension in the string, and its less on shorter scale resulting in a "looser" feel.
Longer string means slower vibration and lower note, thats the physics behind it.
In your world I would be able to tune an okulele down to G and go all Deathcore with it.

Ther's no problem, I'm strongly convinced abot the opposite, in my world shorter scale generate more tension.
Do you think that a 10cm scale have less tension than a 30cm scale? ( at the same tunning, same gauge )
 
Ther's no problem, I'm strongly convinced abot the opposite, in my world shorter scale generate more tension.
Do you think that a 10cm scale have less tension than a 30cm scale? ( at the same tunning, same gauge )

So if you take a 0.46 string and tune it to E in a 25.5" scale guitar it will have more tension than the same string and same tuning in a 26.5" scale??
 
LOL.... no, you are wrong dude. That's why the 8-string I had, tuned to F# standard had only a 60 on it, but it was 28" scale. If I put a 60 on my Gibson Explorer, 24.75" scale, and tuned it to F# it would be fucking spaghett-o-rama.

Longer scale = more tension
 
Oh ok...just making sure before I post this...

facepalm.jpg



Seriously though, what you say doesn't make sense. Maybe you're confusing the term "tension" with something else.

probably I'm confused, but I think my theory is right....hahah!!
 
Great idea for a post.

From working in a shop and learning from very experienced luthiers and guitar techs, we would adjust the neck first before even touching the bridge. Assuming the neck even needs adjusting.

You can check the relief of the neck (amount of bow) quickly by fretting the first fret with your left hand. Then fretting the 12th-14th fret with your thumb on your right hand and then tapping with your right-hand index finger on the 5th Fret. For super low action, assuming the frets are level and such, sometimes you can't see the space, so by tapping you can hear the space since you should hear the string hitting the fret.

The other big thing is intonation. Adjust action, string sizes, or tuning will completely change your intonation. No point doing all this work if all your fretted notes are out of tune.

Also pick-up height is a big deal as well. Not so much with EMG's. But passives this makes a huge difference in tone. For customers, I usually go for factory height, then check for string to string even-ness by ear on a clean amp. Personally I will take a little extra time to raise them a bit more and adjust to taste, especially stock pickups.
 
God remind me not to post so early in the morning .... ughh... yes Longer scale length = more tension ..stupid fucking fingers and the facepalm is so appropriate ....lol

I feel like a total nub :p

My reply was intended to tell Tachy he was incorrect ... lol FAIL!
 
Uh! sorry guys for that....I have always think that longer scale _ less tension...In the past I had a prs short scale, and try to put the same string I use in my jackson, the result was that the tension of the string in the prs was higer....but probably it's an isolate case.