GUITAR PLAYERS WITH A TREMOLO: READ THIS ASAP!

Guru... all I said was that it may not need truss rod adjustment. Of course it will need intonation tweaks. And yeah, if your action changes, you have to adjust pickup height. But from someone else with 20+ years, a truss rod adjust is not always needed. It's a case-by-case basis IMO.

I will agree its case by case, but every guitar I have ever touched to make play perfect has always needed the adjustment after a gauge change :)

Gibbys included :)
 
I have always believed that people are too quick to touch that truss rod instead of trusting the build quality of their guitar. Maybe it's because I've always played top notch shit. My Gibson Flying V has gone from E-standard to B-flat and everywhere in between, with string gauges ranging from 10-46 thru 13-70. It's never needed one truss rod adjustment. The neck has always adjusted itself within a couple days of any major changes. It also doesn't hurt I suppose, that I've always gone up to a proper string gauge for each level of down tuning, respectively. I saw that the OP is going to be playing a guitar tuned to A# with 10-46's on it? That's stupid as fuck. Seriously, those strings have to feel like spaghetti noodles. May as well not even have strings on the fucking thing. Now that guitar almost assuredly needs truss rod adjustments.

I work in a guitarshop, so ive fixed everything from 100$ guitars to ~8000$ guitars.
We try to leave the guitars over the night after setup before touching the neck, and after each quarter turn of the trussrod we wait another 24 hours.
Wood is a living material, and it will move with different string gauges, it would be amazing if it wouldnt though.
But its true that its less apparent on quality builds then on cheap guitars.
 
I will agree its case by case, but every guitar I have ever touched to make play perfect has always needed the adjustment after a gauge change :)

Gibbys included :)

I've let a countless amount of people noodle around on my V over the years and they all say the same thing: "This guitar feels/plays better than anything I've ever owned!" My intonation has never gone out either. Could be just this guitar though. I've been through a lot of guitars, but this is the only one I've always kept no matter what, so it's the only one that has been through so many different tunings/gauges.

EDIT: Just wanted to say... this is the kind of healthy debating/knowledge sharing that makes this forum and the people on it great. No. I'm not getting mushy, and NO, none of you can have a hug.
 
And the comment about "Do you always anticipate having to re-setup a guitar after you change string gauges" just shows he really doesn't know anything about this as the answer from anyone who knows anything about guitar setups will tell you is YES!

i wasnt saying do you anticipate have to reset up/tweak your guitar after changing gauges... thats a given. im saying do you anticipate your shit fucking up after switching gauges? because thats what i did NOT expect, thus running my time down from ample to limited.

I realize you THINK you know your guitar, but you don't. If you knew how to change string gauging and/or tuning on a Floyd, you'd have blocked the trem before putting the new strings on. You'd have been expecting spring/tension adjustment from the start. If you love your guitar, take it to a pro.

well i guess i could agree with you at some degree. i did THINK i knew my guitar seeing as how ive changed string gauges many many times and never had this problem, but i suppose after having dealing with this, its something new i learn about my guitar. though, i think its the most beautiful guitar ever, ive been considering selling it for an ltd, mainly because i only liked the trem system when i was studying solo guitar work like vai, satch, yngwie, etc


anywho, i plan to take my guitar to a shop this weekend. would you suggest a local shop or guitar center? i feel like a local shop might be more legit as where GC would probably just rip me off charging me insane amounts of money for something as little as "oh, you should have just done this little tweak right here, and since i did that for ya, you owe me eleventy billion dollars for making it like new."

since ive never had to take my geetfiddle to a shop, can anyone give me an estimated price on how much people tend to charge for stuff like that? im on a budget of broke right now, but ill scrounge around and do what i can to make it happen because thats my only option left.
 
i wasnt saying do you anticipate have to reset up/tweak your guitar after changing gauges... thats a given. im saying do you anticipate your shit fucking up after switching gauges? because thats what i did NOT expect, thus running my time down from ample to limited.

Ehr, "shit fucking up"? All you need to do is a regular f-ing setup, but you barely seem to have heard of the different stages involved, thats the reason you've had issues.. its not the guitar, its your lack of knowledge.
And just to make things clear, im not flaming you, im just telling you the truth.. you just dont know enough to work on your guitar just yet.



well i guess i could agree with you at some degree. i did THINK i knew my guitar seeing as how ive changed string gauges many many times and never had this problem, but i suppose after having dealing with this, its something new i learn about my guitar. though, i think its the most beautiful guitar ever, ive been considering selling it for an ltd, mainly because i only liked the trem system when i was studying solo guitar work like vai, satch, yngwie, etc

Every time you change string gauges you will have a change in string pressure, which will cause the tremolo to not float like it should.
And it doesnt matter if you go from 9 to 10, or 9 to 15.. the tremolo will still need to be readjusted afterwards(Even after changing brands with the same gauge will most often need this.).

since ive never had to take my geetfiddle to a shop, can anyone give me an estimated price on how much people tend to charge for stuff like that? im on a budget of broke right now, but ill scrounge around and do what i can to make it happen because thats my only option left.


Im fairly sure that you're attempts to fix the guitar your self have caused several bigger issues then you expected(Such as dulling of the knife-edges.).
This means that it might cost more to fix it.. at our shop we generally take ~10$ for a string change(Strings NOT included.), 10$ for basic intonation(On Floyds that is.).
Re-sharpening the knifes would probably be another 10$(More if its really bad.), and expect 5-10$ more for neck-adjustments(Depending on how much it needs.).

But thats what it would cost in Sweden, at a local shop with lower prices then most shops.
Swedens top guitar tech takes 700$ as a starting price for all floyded guitars, and from there it might go up even higher.. so the prices vary allot between shops, techs and depending on how good of a setup you want(We can do more expensive/better setups on request for instance.).

And keep in mind that they will probably keep your guitar for 24 hours for each quarter turn needed on the trussrod(If it needs one.).
And always expect 24 hours after the work is done, just because they want to make sure that the setup is up to par even when "settled in".
 
I think the only sound advice is that he needs a completely new guitar.

This one is obviously broken.

though i know my guitar can be fixed with just a little work that i obviously cannot do myself, it really is time for a new guitar. i bought it when i was a sophomore in high school which was a few years ago, and its been played so much that there is so much ware on the hardware and the playability is just going downhill. and ive realized that i absolutely HATE the neck on jackson guitars. way too wide and the frets are too thick. and i like to have my guitar low when i play live, but i cannot achieve this with a huge neck, so i need to invest in an ltd ec1000 deluxe :D
 
You do know those things have limited playability in the upper frets right? If you get one of those, your lead playing will take a blow.

I'm going to back that up and add that you should be sure to spend some real time playing any guitars that interest you before committing to the purchase. That's why I have never nor will I ever order a guitar online. I spend at least an hour playing any guitar I think i like before getting serious about buying it. And if I DO buy it, it's damn sure going to be the very same one I was playing when I made the decision. If I have to think about it for a day or so and they don't hold it and it sells to someone else, then "oh well" the search must go on.
 
You do know those things have limited playability in the upper frets right? If you get one of those, your lead playing will take a blow.

ive never noticed that. every time ive played one, it beats playing my jackson with its wide neck and wide frets. what about it makes it limited in your opinion? because im also considering an h1001
 
I was just trolling about the new guitar.

Do you use the floyd much? Just block it if you don't. My first guitar was also a Jackson that I got probably 11 years ago (a cruddy low end reverse dinky with a single locking floyd) and I went from 10-46 to 13-65 on it, blocked the bridge, and it still plays today.
 
ive never noticed that. every time ive played one, it beats playing my jackson with its wide neck and wide frets. what about it makes it limited in your opinion? because im also considering an h1001

Because its a single cut, you have a very large heal that begins right after the 12th fret, and although it has 24 frets, it gets hard to get up there. Very common thing for the LP styled guitars. Thats typically why you don't see many shredders playing those styled guitars.
 
Not to be a dick, but what genious that known nothing about setting up a guitar changes string gauges the day of a gig ..... ughhh


You have 2 problems ....


#1 Springs, you need to get them set so the trem FLOATS. If you have them wrenched down so that the tram sits flat on the body you fucked up. Lossen the springs and start again.

#2 Truss Rod, Your trussrod was set for your old set of strings that were at LESS tension then the new one. So therefore you need to tighten the truss rod.

#3 If you cant figure it out get it to a guitar shop NOW, stop fucking with it, you dont understand how it all works, so stop fucking with it before you fuck up your guitar.

If I see you still attempting to fuck with it and ask questions after this advice you are officially a tool or a troll.

Well...... Said pretty much all that I was going to......

Same way too.