Your correct but placement, box size, loading, and tuning port to Fs and F3 has more to do with spl than anything else--but most important how much power you can push into a sub!!!FreddieMercury said:
Any Big Car Stereo's Booming Opeth Out There
- Thread starter really******loud
- Start date
In theory you should be screaming in pain after 140dB, so I find it hard to believe anyone can comfortably cruise down the road with the music at 156dB. You'd be have to be a retard to be listening to something even remotely that loud without ear protection.Apprentice's Master said:
For that sort of money you'd be much better off getting a home system (if you really had to spend that much money on sound in the first place... geez), since a car isn't an ideal place to be listening to hi-fi stuff.
umdebaba
Napoleon-theSinister{}
If i was gonna spoend 25k on my car I'd drop a supercharged cobra engine in there....not fifty subwoofers. Anyways I have a mustang and its got a pretty nice stock sound system that I always blast opeth on. I think I look better blasting opeth in my mustang than I did in my station wagona year ago.
Doesn't aftermarket audio drain additional power from the engine? If so, then I probably will never upgrade my stock gear. If it doesn't then I'll probably just get a $200 component set in the future. Plan to keep the rear fill stock w/o amp. I want it to look JUST LIKE STOCK, so I have to get the right sizes for both mids and tweets.
I have a 04 Civic Coupe EX, and I'm leaning towards MB Quart, JL Audio, and Boston Acoustics as contenders. I know the specific models also, but I don't which one of those is the supreme. Then there's the whole powered amp issue, which I believe where most of the energy drain comes from...
I just don't know anything about aftermarket sound, so please excuse my noobishness.
I have a 04 Civic Coupe EX, and I'm leaning towards MB Quart, JL Audio, and Boston Acoustics as contenders. I know the specific models also, but I don't which one of those is the supreme. Then there's the whole powered amp issue, which I believe where most of the energy drain comes from...
I just don't know anything about aftermarket sound, so please excuse my noobishness.
I picked up 2 of MA Audio's MA12XE subs here in Canada, which is a rare find. They are 12" subs, as you may have guessed, 150oz. double stacked magnets, 350wrms-700max. If you want more info, I'm sure you can find the website. I put them into an old JL Audio 3/4inch MDF sealed sub box I picked them (the subs) up for $50ea canadian, and then I purchased a Phoenix Gold Octane R 1501 high voltage class d monoblock subwoofer amplifier for $150 canadian. It is rated 500wrms @ 4ohms, 1000wrsm @ 2ohms, and 1500max... It's more than enough bass for my 1990 Cutlass Supreme, and only cost me like $300 total. If I were to price it all out, it's probably worth $1500 retail (Canadian) so I am very happy. I have approx. 40 metal cd's in my car, and 4 rap cd's. I do not like rap, but I will admit flat out, that rap tends to have the cleanest bass frequencies...
-Rob
-Rob
aztattooedsean
crazed tattooed metalhead
volkswagons have good factory systems thus that is enough for me and I do tend to play the heavier stuff and nothing is funnier than coming up to someone listening to korn like crap thinking they are heavier and I have some dismember or carcass playing. I think that is funnier than coming up to some conservative individual.
estimate
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Haha, 150 db. Thats so funny! . "Yeah, and you can hear things now". Anyway: Stupid to put that many money in a stupid stereo.
. "Yeah, and you can hear things now". Anyway: Stupid to put that many money in a stupid stereo.Looks to me like a brain wouldn't hurt em none.Steve said:Are you sure the stereo isn't compensating for something
But at least he isn't spending loads on a system to be playin Dre
Pressure works differently at different frequencies, low bass of 40hz at 140db does less damage that 1000hz at 140db. And my system does hurt me around 152db but not my hearing but it makes my guts churn (I've thrown up twice now) through it being pounded by the bass. At 150 its a little hard to focus sometimes on the road. And my hearing has been damaged over the years but it is only slightly down in the lower region. Well as I'm in my car 4 hours driving a day and it does sound better than my house stereo I really don't think it was a waste of money but we would be boring if we all did the same thing, gees we would all be listening to Devil Rider if we had it your way (just being smart).Chow Mai Dong said:
Well, a lot of that doesn't make sense to me...really******loud said:
I'm aware that the human ear perceives different frequencies at different levels, but point being is that there is utterly no point at all in listening to music that loud. Because of these different perceptions, if you wanted to be such an audiophile whilst listening to music in your car then you wouldn't listen much louder than 85dB-90dB which is generally regarded as the level that most studio engineers mix at.
And how is it possible to damage your hearing mostly in the lower range, short of spending way too much time in a doof club with some earplugs and earmuffs on? I'd be hard pressed to believe you hadn't lost a lot of higher frequencies first.
And if it's so bass-y that you're having trouble focusing on the road then you shouldn't even be allowed to own a car stereo that loud.
mysweetdeath
Easy Mac > Difficult Mac
Agreed. It is nearly impossible to have a quality sound in a car. Acoustics are HORRIBLE in a car and basically you are just paying for bass and volume. But hey, to each his own.Ivanhoe said:
mysweetdeath said:
I have spent over $1000 on sound deadening and I can only just hear my tyres-no engine noise at all so apart from reflections I'm in a very accoustically tight chamber. I have compensated for the reflections some what-and at 120db with the system set flat in frequency responce, I can still talk to my passanger at a normal level-thats clear. Try doing that at a concert of 120db, you cant due to so much distortion in the signal. And try doing that with some home stereos, not saying that you can't get a better sound in home but you can do better than most with a car.
I'm not trying to start ya or anything (really, lol) but this still doesn't make sense to me. I'm not sure what distortion in what signal contributes to the fact that it's harder to hear someone at a 120dB concert than 120dB within a car.really******loud said:
to power a speaker you need a signal of AC (sine wave) any DC (square wave) is distortion, when you get to the maximum of your amps capibility you start clipping the signal (it changes from a sine wave to a square wave). A stereo with lots of clean leftover power will be playing AC to the speakers only. If you have a real clean (no introduced noise) rca signal and if the stereo is set up right without any phase problems caused by crossover points and reflections you will be able to talk without cancellation to your voice, distortion and other noises will cancel your voice due to it being 180 degrees out of phase with your voice (a sound that is 180 degrees out of phase and is the same frequency as what you say will cancel each other out, try running one speaker in phase and one out of phase you will notice a drop in sound) and you will need to yell to be heard and to hear someone else. Its very involved and I spent a lot of time on my stereo, but its four years old and I have learnt a lot more about sound since then.Chow Mai Dong said:
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