dual recto crapped out

iamdunker

Member
Jun 28, 2008
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so i am running my dual recto and it looses about 7/8ths of the volume all of the sudden. I look in the back and the number 1 6l6 tube(furthest from recto tubes) is not lit up any more. I swapped it with a tube in another spot and the same spot(#1) is still not lit up. So it is not the tube itself but something to do with that tube slot so what could it be. Also as i coutinue to play for a few moments the volume keeps fluctuating.
thx in advance
 
I had a tube socket go on my old DC-5. It was only around $40 to have it fixed. Just bring it to a reliable tech and you should be good to go.
 
before you do anything, take the old tube and spray electrical contact cleaner on it. rub it through the socket a good amount of times.. put the new tube in there and get back to us. otherwise go with the post above.
 
The Screen Grid resistor went out on that socket, a huge problem for 5150's (they put an underpowered resistor in there and almost every time a tube is going out they take the resistor with them) although can happen to other amps when a tube is going out. If you are comfortable with soldering its a fairly cheap and easy fix, about $3 and about 30-45 min to do, or you can spend around $40-70 to have a tech do it.
 
took the amp to a local tech, he said if it is a screen grid resistor that the tube would still heat up, i am getting no heat whatsoever.
 
took the amp to a local tech, he said if it is a screen grid resistor that the tube would still heat up, i am getting no heat whatsoever.

Could be a loose heater wire I guess. Or cold solder joint if tube sockets are on PCB (I certainly hope NOT).

Did this tube socket blow the tubes you put in it, or do they work normally when you put them back to another slot?

You could check that there is no blown fuses inside, if the amp has a fuse for each tube? Be careful and don't touch anything though. The amp won't store any lethal currents, but you could faint from the high voltage and hit your head.
 
turns out my 2x12 cab was shorted and both the speakers were shot. I must say that my local tech is awesome and he helped me get to the bottom of this whole situation. Purchased the cab back in the early 90's and has sat in a dusty shop on the farm for most of the duration. Been Playing it for last two years and the bottom speaker finally corroded thru. And one of my guitar players amps were always blowin, cause my cab speakers were shorted.
Got some new vintage 30's on the way from avatar cabs(freaking awesome price at $204 shipped).
 
^that can explain the volume drops but would not cause a tube socket to work. Now does it light up at all, as in the amber glow? If it does not as was said, the connection to the heater might be cold or came undone and needs a little solder work. All the heater pins are connected together so if one works and the other doesn't either that joint is cold or the actually socket itself is fucked and needs replacing.

Basically pins 2 and 7 when probed should give a voltage if they don't then you have a bad solder joint or the socket is bad, if you get a voltage reading on those pins, the tube will have an amber glow when you hit the power switch, when you hit the standby and it doesn't glow blue, its the screen grid resistor, or a cold solder/bad socket at pins 3,4 or 8, thats the only way that the tube will not have a blue glow. If you get a blue glow and its creating heat, you have to test to make sure the control grid is putting out a voltage when you are playing as having a bad pin 5 connection will cause the tube to dissipate power but not actually get an audio signal to amplify.
 
tech said he had to solder tube socket and the amp is now all fixed and running great so there was a problem with that aswell. Now just waiting for the speakers to be back in action. Never had vintage 30's only stock emminance so this will be a treat for the dual recto and my studio.

He also said that my amp puts out around 120 watts now that it is running normally
 
tech said he had to solder tube socket and the amp is now all fixed and running great so there was a problem with that aswell. Now just waiting for the speakers to be back in action. Never had vintage 30's only stock emminance so this will be a treat for the dual recto and my studio.

so it was a dry joint

He also said that my amp puts out around 120 watts now that it is running normally

unless he did a bias mod and set the bias to 100% plate dissipation (60 mA) you are not running a full 120 Watts. Biasing an amp for class A is extremely pointless because 1) tube life is dramatically diminished and 2) diminishes the tone at low volumes.