So I want to add onto my Roland TD-3 and want to do it cheap since bands don't seem interested in using it (although I like it personally).
My plan since I'm tapped for inputs is not to upgrade the module and add another instead (I actually like the way the TD-3 triggers honestly).
So my idea is to add another TD-3 module (I have seen them all over the place for $100 or less) with one of these (they cost $60) for a total of $160 for another 9 inputs (high hat control doesn't count as I don't have plans to add another high hat):
And to add triggers I was going to convert the cheapo mapex kit I was given (tom sizes 8",10",12"
) into more triggers and perhaps buy some more cymbal triggers (I don't really care for DIY cymbal triggers).
Seems like this could all be done for around $240 ish if I did the math right (sans extra cymbal triggers and mounting hardware for added cymbal triggers).
My question though is I wanted to have this right:
I was going to use drawer slider hardware as the bridge accross the shell to hold the trigger and hold it in place with 2 small L brackets. Seems cheap enough of an idea (thank you youtube).
Ebay has sever bulk transducers for sale with low shipping options so I was going to do that for them and then order the wire and TS connectors somewhere else or snag from Radio shack.
I was going to use the leftover foam from the mopads to build the cones as it seems to be a little more solid than other options. I wanted to make sure I had the construction right though:
TL/DR:
Just want to make sure this is right:
Crossbar with plate screwed in (this makes sense to me, I would explain but can't haha)-->Transducer (wire side facing down I'm assuming)-->Foam cone-->compressed slightly into mesh head.
I'm also assuming that since Roland offsets the transducer on their triggers that this is the best thing to do for DIY as well? I wouldn't want it centered correct? Am I correct to also assume that the wire side faces down? Should I use 20mm or 27mm transducers? I was thinking 20mm, unless someone tells me otherwise.
My plan since I'm tapped for inputs is not to upgrade the module and add another instead (I actually like the way the TD-3 triggers honestly).
So my idea is to add another TD-3 module (I have seen them all over the place for $100 or less) with one of these (they cost $60) for a total of $160 for another 9 inputs (high hat control doesn't count as I don't have plans to add another high hat):
And to add triggers I was going to convert the cheapo mapex kit I was given (tom sizes 8",10",12"
) into more triggers and perhaps buy some more cymbal triggers (I don't really care for DIY cymbal triggers).Seems like this could all be done for around $240 ish if I did the math right (sans extra cymbal triggers and mounting hardware for added cymbal triggers).
My question though is I wanted to have this right:
I was going to use drawer slider hardware as the bridge accross the shell to hold the trigger and hold it in place with 2 small L brackets. Seems cheap enough of an idea (thank you youtube).
Ebay has sever bulk transducers for sale with low shipping options so I was going to do that for them and then order the wire and TS connectors somewhere else or snag from Radio shack.
I was going to use the leftover foam from the mopads to build the cones as it seems to be a little more solid than other options. I wanted to make sure I had the construction right though:
TL/DR:
Just want to make sure this is right:
Crossbar with plate screwed in (this makes sense to me, I would explain but can't haha)-->Transducer (wire side facing down I'm assuming)-->Foam cone-->compressed slightly into mesh head.
I'm also assuming that since Roland offsets the transducer on their triggers that this is the best thing to do for DIY as well? I wouldn't want it centered correct? Am I correct to also assume that the wire side faces down? Should I use 20mm or 27mm transducers? I was thinking 20mm, unless someone tells me otherwise.
