God fucking dammit, my XSr took a crap on me

I dunno, honestly - I'm liking 'em pretty well; they've got a great crunch to 'em, but I'm not sure whether I'm into that "sizzle" in the highs that eurotubes describes. I'm planning on buying a set of 6L6's to stick in and compare, and I'll try to get over to a music store that carries JSX's so I can demo one with the stock EL34's (not JJ, but I'm not gonna buy a set of 6L6's AND EL34's just for the sake of comparison). I'll keep you updated!
 
Well, swapping out the fuse did remedy the problem, yes (those 5A 250-volt slow-blowers were just the ticket, elephant, thanks!) - but what I'm not sure about is whether the original fuse was just faulty, or if there was a bigger problem that caused it to blow. So at this point, all I can do is play it regularly and see if this one blows. By the way, to you and Elephant-Audio, what kinda power tubes are you running in your jSX? Stock El34's?
 
Well, swapping out the fuse did remedy the problem, yes (those 5A 250-volt slow-blowers were just the ticket, elephant, thanks!) - but what I'm not sure about is whether the original fuse was just faulty, or if there was a bigger problem that caused it to blow. So at this point, all I can do is play it regularly and see if this one blows. By the way, to you and Elephant-Audio, what kinda power tubes are you running in your jSX? Stock El34's?

I believe I am running Ruby 6L6s... have no idea whats in the preamp section...
 
Glad the new fuse worked out for you. I knew that was the problem, heh.

Mine blew when I was biasing it. But it's fine now...haven't had a problem yet since I replaced the fuse. Don't expect to either. I'm running the stock EL34's, but I'm ordering some matched EL's from JJ this weekend or during the week next week. I've heard 6l6's in the JSX and I prefer the EL34 sound, but thats just me. It's not a HUGE difference, but you can tell. When I first ordered my JSX I was already set on changing the tubes to 6L6 as soon as I got it...but when it arrived I just liked the EL's so much it changed my mind. Oh well, I'm happy. :)

~e.a
 
My VL-1002 Blew a fuse recently and it was because one of the power tubes went bad.

The power tubes were like 10 years old when I bought it used.

I was cranking the head up and while it was pretty loud I flipped the Frequency shift knob and the amp shut off.

I put a new fuse in, turned the head on, and in about 10 seconds the new fuse would blow.

Bought some Ruby's, put them in with a new fuse and was back in business.
 
I just had a similar problem w/ my 5150 - turned it on one day and there was no sound. It ended up being a blown fuse. The fuse in mine was also a grey colored ceramic fuse and looked exactly like the one you have in your picture. If you look on the silver ends of the fuse, you should see some things engraved in it that indicate the model and the number of amps the fuse is. Mine was a 10 amp ceramic fuse, specifically a Bussman ABC 10. I saw that someone recommended that you use a 5 amp glass fuse as a replacement, but I would urge you put in the same type of fuse that was orignally in the amp - its that type of fuse for a reason! If you don't have your blown fuse laying around anymore email Peavey and they will tell you what you need.

Also, in my research I found out that the majority of these internal fuses are blown due to intermittent shorts in power tubes. Replace them!
 
A quick way to make sure the fuse is the problem is to wrap it in foil, replace it, and pay very close attention when you start it up. Always assume that the fuse blew for a reason, and use the foil trick to make sure it is a fuse and not something else.

Jeff
Why risk to damage the amp more? Just use a multimeter and check the resistance of the fuse if its blown it should be infinity if its not blown it should be something like 0 ohms.
Or use a battery and a small light bulb and some wire if you dont have a multi...
But maybe I just understand something wrong ;)
 
I was guessing that he didn't have a multimeter around, and I noted to pay very close attention. You don't run it like this, you see if it powers on and then you turn it back off.

Jeff
 
I saw that someone recommended that you use a 5 amp glass fuse as a replacement, but I would urge you put in the same type of fuse that was orignally in the amp - its that type of fuse for a reason! If you don't have your blown fuse laying around anymore email Peavey and they will tell you what you need.

Uh...he has a JSX...I have a JSX...pretty sure it's the same fuse, unless Peavey would do something stupid like use different fuses for the same head at different production times...never heard of that though.

~e.a
 
Yeah, thanks for the tip yarrick, but after close inspection of my old fuse, it was indeed a 5 amp 250-volt ceramic, so EA was spot on...always helps to be sure though!