What did you do with the neck ? Seriously, whats going on, do you just have a bare body your working with ? Dont remove the finish from that maple neck, anywhere, it needs to be fully sealed from humidity.
Guitar Painting
- Thread starter noble savage
- Start date
No, I took the neck off! I'm not going to do anything to the neck. I'm just working with the body.
SO your down to bare basswood ? If not you need to get all the paint off, youve had stripper on it.
The sand it with 280, nothing courser, you want to get that residue from the stripper and paint off. If your doing all this by hand, sand straight, not in circles and every which direction. lay it on a old towel so you dont mark the wood on one side while your sanding the other.
Your going with color right ?
The sand it with 280, nothing courser, you want to get that residue from the stripper and paint off. If your doing all this by hand, sand straight, not in circles and every which direction. lay it on a old towel so you dont mark the wood on one side while your sanding the other.
Your going with color right ?
Yeah, I guess so. I'm going to shop around tomorrow for the paint/clear coat.
I have all of the paint removed now, I just need to do the final sanding to remove residue.
I have all of the paint removed now, I just need to do the final sanding to remove residue.
progmetaldan
Member
no no, but it'd possibly be the only answer to why someone playing Flower Kings covers would have their own blood dripping from their guitar, they wouldn't have gotten it from human sacrifice like a black-metal band might have, cos hippys aren't into that sort of thing... (I was just stirring ya)
OK, dont go cheap. Im pretty sure the finish they use on those production guitars is the same or similar to the new automotive paints. Now, Ive been told you can have autobody supply places mix and place paint in rattle cans. I have never asked or gone that way but on a automotive forum I used to visit they were saying this can be done. HOWEVER, alot of that stuff uses hardeners, so Im not sure how that works with rattle cans, with a spray gun you mix it and have so long to use it and get you gun clean, when its activated its a done deal. You dont want to spray that stuff without a proper mask, it will kill you. Just look in your yellow pages and find autobody supply places and go see them with your dilema. DO NOT, let them talk you into enamel, its soft and takes for ever to harden and can NOT be buffed or rubbed out. I have to go now but I'll check in tomorrow night. Your best bet being as you dont have compressor or spray gun may very well be go and beg a autobody shop to spray it for you but I bet you wont like the price.
You can go to say Walmarts and get automotive paint in a spray can... get your color solid, many coats at proper intervals. let that dry overnight, then the following night sand that with 400 (no courser) or even 600... carefully as not to go through to wood again on the edges especially. But you still need to sand it completely till the shine is gone and its smooth as a babys butt. Then using the same kind/manufacturer of paint.... clearcoat it again following proper intervals. This will not be the really hard typical guitar finish or compare to the stuff I was talking about above but it should not get gummy. I have no idea what you must have used before, it prolly wasnt compatible between the clear and color paints you used or maybe you got some latex house paint or something... lol. You should also know they usually use primer/sealer before they put the color down... Im not sure what to tell you there, paint compatibility is everything, I suppose you could get that same type of primer at a chain store too, maybe get it all at a regular automotive parts store. Just get it all at the same place, same kind, compatible & manufacture of paint. I have no idea what they have for paints. Once again you'll need to let that dry over night and sand w/400 completely before you put you color coats. Use your eyes, if you dont have the glaze completely cut you wont get good adhesion. Those scratch pads work great for this too, get ultra fine. Use tack cloth after sandings to remove all dust, hang from a opened up coat hanger, or wire, then tack it off and spray evenly, use a lead light or bright flash light in one hand to see where you might be missing. Like if its hanging its common to not get good coverage at the top and bottom sides because you can't see them as well, then your done and get looking at it and... oops !
One coat in one direction the next in the opposite, (horizontal... vertical)keep it moving side to side or up down which ever the case that coat, and just dust it on there, dont get pushy, dont get real close, if it runs your screwed till it dries and then you start sanding again.... do not try to touch or wipe or brush a run out... been there done that, never worth it. Just let it dry, sand it out and try again.
Theres so many things, i could go nuts trying to explain. You might have problems with the automotive paints as many if not most are metallic, you might not like this, and to me this is kinda tacky on a guitar.... (black rules!) Theres those funny specialty finishes but they might not take well to sanding and clearcoat and not last if you dont clear coat them. Take you time choosing and read the cans for compatibility and options.
I dont know what to tell you, I have the stuff(tools) and can use high quality two part activated paints, like epoxys & urethanes. That dyed laquer Stewmac has is for transparent finish on fine figured woods and such and is not what you need for that basswood. Due to vapor regulations the stuff that comes in typical spray cans these days is not REAL hard. It should be good for a few years though and not get gummy... I still dont get that one.
You can go to say Walmarts and get automotive paint in a spray can... get your color solid, many coats at proper intervals. let that dry overnight, then the following night sand that with 400 (no courser) or even 600... carefully as not to go through to wood again on the edges especially. But you still need to sand it completely till the shine is gone and its smooth as a babys butt. Then using the same kind/manufacturer of paint.... clearcoat it again following proper intervals. This will not be the really hard typical guitar finish or compare to the stuff I was talking about above but it should not get gummy. I have no idea what you must have used before, it prolly wasnt compatible between the clear and color paints you used or maybe you got some latex house paint or something... lol. You should also know they usually use primer/sealer before they put the color down... Im not sure what to tell you there, paint compatibility is everything, I suppose you could get that same type of primer at a chain store too, maybe get it all at a regular automotive parts store. Just get it all at the same place, same kind, compatible & manufacture of paint. I have no idea what they have for paints. Once again you'll need to let that dry over night and sand w/400 completely before you put you color coats. Use your eyes, if you dont have the glaze completely cut you wont get good adhesion. Those scratch pads work great for this too, get ultra fine. Use tack cloth after sandings to remove all dust, hang from a opened up coat hanger, or wire, then tack it off and spray evenly, use a lead light or bright flash light in one hand to see where you might be missing. Like if its hanging its common to not get good coverage at the top and bottom sides because you can't see them as well, then your done and get looking at it and... oops !
One coat in one direction the next in the opposite, (horizontal... vertical)keep it moving side to side or up down which ever the case that coat, and just dust it on there, dont get pushy, dont get real close, if it runs your screwed till it dries and then you start sanding again.... do not try to touch or wipe or brush a run out... been there done that, never worth it. Just let it dry, sand it out and try again.
Theres so many things, i could go nuts trying to explain. You might have problems with the automotive paints as many if not most are metallic, you might not like this, and to me this is kinda tacky on a guitar.... (black rules!) Theres those funny specialty finishes but they might not take well to sanding and clearcoat and not last if you dont clear coat them. Take you time choosing and read the cans for compatibility and options.
I dont know what to tell you, I have the stuff(tools) and can use high quality two part activated paints, like epoxys & urethanes. That dyed laquer Stewmac has is for transparent finish on fine figured woods and such and is not what you need for that basswood. Due to vapor regulations the stuff that comes in typical spray cans these days is not REAL hard. It should be good for a few years though and not get gummy... I still dont get that one.
ABQShredHead
©1970
Stewart-MacDonald sells guitar lacquer in a spray can (though only four colors for bursting), and they also have some innovative mini spray guns (Preval spray unit).
ABQ, do you have any experience with those colortone sprays? If they work fine, then I'll just order a few of those.
Never mind, I just called an automotive paint shop down the road from me and they have done guitars in the past. I wasn't able to get a price quote as the guy who does them wasn't in. Does anyone know what it would cost for just a basic red? I hope not a lot. I know I'll fuck something up, so it's better to let people who know what they are doing handle it.
Kenneth R.
Cináed
I'd bet the car shop would cost you more than a guitar shop... but you do save the effort of doing it yourself. Then again, they aren't guitarists so they might fuck it up.
Well, apparently the guy has done quite a few guitars in the past and I'm a little less worried based on that. I love DIY jobs, but this is something I really don't want to fuck with/up. The quicker I get my 7 string working, the better.
Do you know roughly what it would cost? I only have $137 to my name at the moment. I'm going to be so pissed if it ends up costing over $150.
Do you know roughly what it would cost? I only have $137 to my name at the moment. I'm going to be so pissed if it ends up costing over $150.
Kenneth R.
Cináed
that will make you think next time. I have no idea how much they would charge but I wouldnt be surprised if you dont have enough. I doubt many "guitar shops" are set up to paint, or have the skills.
ABQShredHead
©1970
Judging on pricing from the Warmoth site, they charge $185 for a basic solid finish, including grain fill, color, and top coats. Before going to an autoshop, I'd ask for references of the guitars the guy has already painted, and then talk to those owners. The grain fill is a very important step in the painting, even though basswood isn't too porous. I'd make sure the autoshop has the appropriate grain fillers available.
But, no, I don't have any experience with the Colortone sprays.
But, no, I don't have any experience with the Colortone sprays.
Eternal Dragon
1337AD
A friend of mine painted a Z guitar. Looks like shit, and also (now) plays like shit. Zebra humbucker in the neck slot, and EMG81 on the bridge. Doesn't make any difference tho.... still sounds 100x worse than my $400 Yamaha.
He painted the neck. /sigh. Thats probably the worst thing about it. Feels fucking horrible. Its all warped now... not sure if it was before tho.
He painted the neck. /sigh. Thats probably the worst thing about it. Feels fucking horrible. Its all warped now... not sure if it was before tho.
Kenneth R.
Cináed
wow, don't EVER paint the neck. Steve, guitar shops don't do many repairs in-shop. They send them out to 3rd parties.
ABQShredHead
©1970
Necks have to have some type of hard finish on them, or the oils from your hands will ruin them.
I wouldn't even think about doing the neck myself. Although I can see how they can get worn after years of use, I found all it takes every once in a while is a good cleaning and some lemon oil.
Also, I took the plunge and bought some lacquer based paints. I'm only on the primer coat now, but it's coming along nicely so far. I'll have pictures in a few days when I get a little farther.
Thanks for the help everyone!
Also, I took the plunge and bought some lacquer based paints. I'm only on the primer coat now, but it's coming along nicely so far. I'll have pictures in a few days when I get a little farther.
Thanks for the help everyone!
Kenneth R.
Cináed
From the sound of it though, I don't think he varnished or airbrush lacquered it, it sounds like a flat out spraypaint job
ABQShredHead
©1970
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