help with a few decisions

[Hexer]

the page I got my info from also said, that ash was originally used for most strats, but thats not really what made me choose it. I just thought the description sounded pretty much as if it would be what I want...

about the PUs again: I think the Dimebucker in bridge and a Jazz in neck-position should work well, what do you think about that?

the whole thing is taking shape now, I even designed a custom paint-job for it some days ago (well, a rough sketch at least, but I think it looks pretty damn cool). talking about looks I'm pretty shure it will be the following:
Invader model (V-shaped) with a headstock like the BC Rich Beast (a bit smaller than the original, since the Beast is a pretty huge guitar) painted in dark grey with black bevels and a black tribal-grafic on both body and headstock. what do you think?

 

[Hexer]

nut-width:
am I right saying that 1 5/8" is the width used on strats for example and 1 11/16" (which is wider than 1 5/8") is the width used for guitars like BC Rich or Jackson?

 

[Hexer]

nut-width:
am I right saying that 1 5/8" is the width used on strats for example and 1 11/16" (which is wider than 1 5/8") is the width used for guitars like BC Rich or Jackson?

I just asked the RAN-guitars-guy through mail, answer was:

"you are right and some ibanez guitars has also 1 5/8" width of nut
Generally, both dimensions are used by fender, ibanez and other ones."

 

[7 Dying Trees]

Customs man, they are a pain in the arse to spec out, but worth the effort in the end. I should know, I just got mine

But back to your questions. Several good tips are to play a whole bunch of guitars, note down which parts of which you like the feel of, which ones you like the sound of etc.

Then go combine the best of each, so choose neck shape profile (D,C,V etc) and then go looking for the neck depth measurements of the neck you liked best (and the shape). I did this and ended up with a neck that felt right straight out of the box.

Pickup wise, I'd recommend a Duncan Jazz or a Dimarzio Air Norton for the neck, both warm jazzy clean pickups, very nice to solo through as well!

Bridge wise I wouldnt know, but generally a high gain pickup will work, just listen to a few players that use each one or soundclips and go with one, you can always swap it out and trade/sell it later on.

If you are going for a floyd, locking nut is essential, also think about a string retainer bar for the headstock as this improves tuning, and also see if you can get locking studs like the old ibanez edge bridge had if possible, if not, no biggie for the locking studs as that is only a minor extra for stability

Next up woods. personally I prefer maple necks, brighter than rosewood, but as it's a neckthrough you can get a 3 or 5 piece neck and mix two woods together, so maple/rosewood mix may be possible, but generally you may want maple/bubinga (bubinga to strengthen the neck)

If it's a neckthrough, then the wings are the next stop, these are glued onto the neck to make the body shaope either side. You could try mahogony, ash or even other woods like basswood. i went with swamp ash and am really quite pleased with the result! But read up on it. There are plenty sites about, so one will have the right explanation!

And another thing to consider is adding a top. Les Pauls sound like les pauls do instead of like an SG due to the brightness added by a maple top, so think about that as well!

If it's a custom, as a final note, I'd shy away from EMG's as if you've spent that much money and time speccing it out, it'd be a shame to mask the natural sound of such a guitar.

Of course, if it ends up sounding shit, buy EMG's

 

[the alumnus]

jibba jabba

i agree with exactly what this guy said (i too am planning a custom guitar). i should add you might want to also consider ebony for the fretboard.

 

[Hexer]

If you are going for a floyd, locking nut is essential, also think about a string retainer bar for the headstock as this improves tuning, and also see if you can get locking studs like the old ibanez edge bridge had if possible, if not, no biggie for the locking studs as that is only a minor extra for stability

what is a string retainer bar? (I think I know it, but I'm not shure) also: what does it do? how does it improve tuning?

ebony fretboard is already considered and chosen
I've pretty much decided for the Duncan Dimebucker/Jazz combo and Ash as body-wood. neck will be maple.
I've already sent a price request to RANguitars, I think 1290€ is quite a lot of money, but a good price for that kind of guitar.

 

[Kenneth R.]

thats a fair price range, though i've no experience with that company.

a string retainer doesn't have much to do with tuning, its more along the lines of exactly what it sounds like: retaining the strings, that is--- holding them down. some guitars have an angled head that pulls the string's path down over the nut and headstock so they can have good tension and a tight path from tuners to bridge, but others (like fenders and some gibsons) have a straight headstock, so getting the strings tight against the nut requires a retaining bar to keep (particularly the E and B strings) down and prevent them from popping out of the nut. they guide the strings along the path that gives the best tension and control. its a simple device, just a metal plate under which the strings pass, supported by a screw or two on the headstock. necessary? not really on angled (9 degrees or more) heads, but on flat headstocks it can be useful to have.

 

[Hexer]

ok, that was what I thought it is, but I'm gonna get a locking nut anyway, so I think there should be no need for something else to hold the strings in place, right?

about teh company: I've read post by some people who have RAN-guitars (in another forum) and they all seem very pleased with what they got
another plus is that I wont have to pay another little fortune for importing the guitar as Poland (where RAN is) and germany (where I live) are both in the EU.

 

[Kenneth R.]

sounds good to me

 

[7 Dying Trees]

Actually a retainer bar makes sure that the strings sit flush across the locking nut, so that when you lock it down the tuning doesnt change as much, so they are usefull, as you need quite a headstock angle to achieve that across the locking nut. So it is advisable to get one, it does help, and with floyds everything helps to keep them stable (and your sanity)