A company called BWI in Greenville, SC. If you call that number I posted, they'll tell you where the closest place is to you.
If you are not thinking about treating your room ...
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Matt Crooks
www.fools-game.com
Can you post the testing results for these? If they work well, I might go dig some up.
Jarkko Mattheiszen
The FU guy.
It's better to do them yourself. The premade ones are expensive and actually really inefficient compared to DIY corpses.
Djabthrash
Member
broken81
Used by Protools
Here is a pic of a couple of my absorbers i built. You know what though my room is 8x8x8 pretty much a perfect square and I'm stuck in the middle of the room no mater what way i put my desk. So even with the treatment I'm still having freq problems from sitting in the middle 
Any idea's to help me out would be great but I'm just really thinking i need a new room!
Any idea's to help me out would be great but I'm just really thinking i need a new room!
Loren Littlejohn
Lover of all boobage.
Great Job on the traps but a something I need to point out to you.
The trash bag is a great idea
, but you should only put it on the front that is facing the room. It will act as a membrane which will help absorb more low end, but it will have negative effects if placed to the back as you want sound to travel through it very easily.Great job though but in the future leave the stuff off the back.
Glenn
Great Job on the traps but a something I need to point out to you.
The trash bag is a great idea
Great job though but in the future leave the stuff off the back.
Glenn
Hm, dammit - so you're saying the room would sound even better without the trashbags?
I thought if I put it on the front it would reflect too much mid/highs?
Would I gain anything by poking 45936534 holes into the trashbags on the back?
Hm, dammit - so you're saying the room would sound even better without the trashbags?
I thought if I put it on the front it would reflect too much mid/highs?
Would I gain anything by poking 45936534 holes into the trashbags on the back?
Yes having the plastic to the front will reflect some of the high end, but when you straddle the corner you are dealing with low end which the plastic will act as a membrane. For the side walls, when dealing with early reflections that is where you do not want any kind of reflectiveness to the panel.
Poking holes in the back will help but removing it really is the best way to go. NOTE: You did a hell of a lot better then I have seen. Having the plastic to the back is not as bad as wood, which is a HUGE NO NO.
Glenn
Aaron Smith
Envisage Audio
Good thread. I've been meaning to treat my room for a long time, but the sheer price of that Auralex stuff has made me kind of slow to do it... After reading this thread, I searched around for some other foam sites, and I found this place which is MUCH cheaper than Auralex:
http://www.foambymail.com/soundproofing.html
I just dropped about $390 on 168 square feet of 2" pyramid foam, 4 bass traps, some corner blocks to butt up against, and a pack of foam ceiling tiles that I'm going to fashion together somehow. CHEAP! And super professional looking.
Oh yeah, and if you spend over $50, the shipping is free anywhere within the contiguous USA.
http://www.foambymail.com/soundproofing.html
I just dropped about $390 on 168 square feet of 2" pyramid foam, 4 bass traps, some corner blocks to butt up against, and a pack of foam ceiling tiles that I'm going to fashion together somehow. CHEAP! And super professional looking.
Oh yeah, and if you spend over $50, the shipping is free anywhere within the contiguous USA.
deathtotaliban
Member
I constructed 8 panels (4 2" and 4 4") to put in my 15'x13' work area. I used this site http://www.radford.edu/~shelm/acoustics/bass-traps.html as a guide and it worked out pretty well. I used just standard rock wool I ordered from ATS Acoustics earlier this year. They have really cleaned up the low end rumble in my room and my mixes are translating a lot better to other systems. Ha and for under $250 building costs hold off on that next mic you were gunna buy and really help yourself by making your listening environment better.
I also put 2 of the 4" panels on stands, there are pictures below to show how I used some wood bracing and a standard mic stand to do so...
Oh yeah I added a backing of thin cardboard to help glue the burlap tight to the back
Jordan
I also put 2 of the 4" panels on stands, there are pictures below to show how I used some wood bracing and a standard mic stand to do so...
Oh yeah I added a backing of thin cardboard to help glue the burlap tight to the back
Jordan
A great deal is always fun to fine but, the foam by mail product was test by Ethan Winer from Real Traps in a lab. They found that the numbers FBM claims is total fraud. You can see the data here. http://www.realtraps.com/data.htm
Also do a search in google for acoustic fraud and you will see all kinds of things about Foam by Mail.
Glenn
deathtotaliban
Member
Aaron Smith
Envisage Audio
Awesome, haha...
Too bad I found out too late. However, although the Foam By Mail stats might be skewed, I'm sure it will be an improvement over my currently untreated room!
Too bad I found out too late. However, although the Foam By Mail stats might be skewed, I'm sure it will be an improvement over my currently untreated room!
If OC703/705 is hard to find or too expensive, you can get 8 lb. Mineral Wool which does just as well. From what I understand about Ethan's article, the higher density actually means it will do better at absorbing low frequencies.
The Foam By Mail stuff works... but no better than a bed matress and definitely not as good as Auralex. But it is cheap. I use it for panels and such.
To find the Mineral Wool and OC, look for Insulation Contractors and Supplies in the phone book. The Mineral Wool is typically used for boiler insulating from what I understand. So you can only get the stuff from "Pro" places, but they will sell to anyone with money.
For the Frames, I used drywall beading at $1 a piece. But check this out:
http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/andy-sneap/352943-some-advice-diy-bass-traps.html
This guy did the frames out of wood which I think would be cheaper.
For the fabric, I dyed some muslin. At 60 cents a yard or something, it was damn cheap.
The Foam By Mail stuff works... but no better than a bed matress and definitely not as good as Auralex. But it is cheap. I use it for panels and such.
To find the Mineral Wool and OC, look for Insulation Contractors and Supplies in the phone book. The Mineral Wool is typically used for boiler insulating from what I understand. So you can only get the stuff from "Pro" places, but they will sell to anyone with money.
For the Frames, I used drywall beading at $1 a piece. But check this out:
http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/andy-sneap/352943-some-advice-diy-bass-traps.html
This guy did the frames out of wood which I think would be cheaper.
For the fabric, I dyed some muslin. At 60 cents a yard or something, it was damn cheap.
Ermz
¯\(°_o)/¯
Yes having the plastic to the front will reflect some of the high end, but when you straddle the corner you are dealing with low end which the plastic will act as a membrane. For the side walls, when dealing with early reflections that is where you do not want any kind of reflectiveness to the panel.
Poking holes in the back will help but removing it really is the best way to go. NOTE: You did a hell of a lot better then I have seen. Having the plastic to the back is not as bad as wood, which is a HUGE NO NO.
Glenn
What would you suggest covering up the back with, Glenn? Acoustically transparent cloth material like the front? It's cool that it sounds better with an open back, but there's something about having one side open with the insulation material exposed that doesn't sit well with me.
Also, do the corner traps need to be the exactly the height of the room? I was considering using 2 of the standard traps but not covering the entire corner. Would I be making a mistake there?
Loren Littlejohn
Lover of all boobage.
Just a FYI I found OC703 locally for $80 for 96' square, thats the 2" stuff as well.
Or in easier terms 12 sheets for $80.
Compare that to the crap I see floating around for over $100 shipped (plus you only get 6 sheets for some stupid reason), OC703 isn't that bad.
The company is a national distributor as well:
http://www.spi-co.com/
So I bought 288 square feet of OC703 ($240)
I bought 20 yards of fabric at a $1 a yard ($20)
Picture hangers ($3)
Red Cedar wood (free)
Finishing nails ($10)
Wood Glue ($3.50)
Total cost for my 12X11X8 room: $273
My budget: $550 or less.
Needless to say I'm stoked. I'm posting pics of the finished product when I am done, oh and the fabric I got can wrap around the whole absorber (so the back and front are covered).
Also: My corner traps are not going to be floor to cieling, my cieling is 8' my trap will be 6'.
Also, Also: All my absorbers will be 4" thick (2 sheets of OC703 per 4' absorber). I asked Ethan if it would be better to have 12 absorbers and 4 traps all 4" thick or if it was better to have 9 absorbers @ 4" thick and 4 traps at 6" thick. He said having more coverage is better so I am going with 4" traps.
Or in easier terms 12 sheets for $80.
Compare that to the crap I see floating around for over $100 shipped (plus you only get 6 sheets for some stupid reason), OC703 isn't that bad.
The company is a national distributor as well:
http://www.spi-co.com/
So I bought 288 square feet of OC703 ($240)
I bought 20 yards of fabric at a $1 a yard ($20)
Picture hangers ($3)
Red Cedar wood (free)
Finishing nails ($10)
Wood Glue ($3.50)
Total cost for my 12X11X8 room: $273
My budget: $550 or less.
Needless to say I'm stoked. I'm posting pics of the finished product when I am done, oh and the fabric I got can wrap around the whole absorber (so the back and front are covered).
Also: My corner traps are not going to be floor to cieling, my cieling is 8' my trap will be 6'.
Also, Also: All my absorbers will be 4" thick (2 sheets of OC703 per 4' absorber). I asked Ethan if it would be better to have 12 absorbers and 4 traps all 4" thick or if it was better to have 9 absorbers @ 4" thick and 4 traps at 6" thick. He said having more coverage is better so I am going with 4" traps.
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