LEE JACKSON GP-1000 88 replica for sale

the way i would do it is:

guitar-> audio interface-> computer

this will give a baseline frequency response with your setup and then do:

guitar-> rsp-> audio interface-> computer.

some screenshot of rsp off and then rsp on will show the difference. and then you could do screenshot of different settings too....


for heaters it should be pin 4+5 have 1 wire/trace and then pin 9 should have 1 wire/trace. each side should provide a little more than 3v. 12ax7 tubes use 6.3v heater lines. this may in practice be a little higher though because gp transformer is rated for 117v instead of 120v for U.S.(idk what its rated at for EU)

i cant say for sure how to solve your noise issue....maybe it is there on mine and i dont notice it or see it as an issue? i like the sound of mine for sure tho....

if you are getting blocking distortion or something like that you can bias the first 3 stages with LEDs/diodes. just use the number of diodes you need to equal the voltage on the cathode with the resistor there. then remove the resistor and put in the series of diodes. diode biased stages are supposed to be immune from blocking distortion so this will let you have the maximum (natural) distortion from the amp. (this is a lot of work and is likely un-needed and probably not the cause of the problem anyways but may be something to try anyways)
 
I actually think it is the filter caps.... Italian bodom could do a test, because our amps are identical. put the internal level on full and slam your sd-1 in front, do you get buzzy tails after notes decay (fades). Especially palm mutes?
 
unmodded an sd-1 pretty much simulates similar fashioned diodes adviced by Bodoms present guitar tech. Alexi has been using it several times during his career, so has Roope. Little more nasty overdrive than a tubescreamer.

Okay havent tested this yet, but Electrolytic capacitors when dying/failing or beeing loose can make this effect, also especially if having cold solder spots. Also underpowered electrolytical filter caps that isn't properly secured, like the clone (clone have two and two 22uf caps in series instead of 47uf) (also some weird mosfet/transistor like stuff on the back of PCB to buffer them I suppose), can have this effect..... sucks that electrolytical caps are the only common stuff for filter.... my orignal have really old ones and the early 88 model for some reason have one (two with DC cap) lying on their side (axial) not supported by anything but their wires, veeeeery sloppy work from Lee Jackson...... Suck that such a supposed perfectionist did such a poor job on his earliest attempts of amp building. (heard the m-1000 and much of his early modded Marshalls were sloppy too).
 
Nope all DC caps tested all fine and no leaking on the original.
However I think I just got it:
And before I reveal this it is not tested, but very recommended by some of the same guys who gave me tips on the amp in the first place, but also said that they hardly remember the circuit and wouldn't answere more mails after that.

The PI (phase inverter (basically tube #3 (V3)) on the GP-1000 have no grid stopper before or after the grid reference 1M (R6 and R9. You need both since this is a dual output amp. Now this grid stopper can be anything from 33K to 1M and it pretty much prevents any funny stuff happening to the output when the last stage gets serverly overdriven, as we do in V2 and pass directly to V3. Now Gorhrut got that sorted out by having the amp in phase from the start only having some feedback issues which is mainly because of lines running too close. The clone is very out of phase because everything is already more boosted in that and even closer together with poorer lead dressing and some sloppy work here and there. Just really fine tuned on the internal level trimpot to get minimal noise and also a bit to little gain/distortion running through. Thats also how I got the amp and was pleased at first, just as the videos and sound clips showed until I realized it had too little gain and started to mess with all the different extra diodes and switches TWCC provided in an "spare parts" bag. Now I dont have the tine before weekend to test this out and the largest resistor I have laying around without having to dissemble something is a 68K (which I ordered for the V1 Input grid stopper that was missing. Got 10 and usef one for that. Now I really hope this helps, and reading about it and checking soundclips really got me positive on this.
Theres also alot of stuff you cab do if it appears in the power amp section of an amp too, so let me know if ypu have fuzzy swirly tails as note decays on any high mid amp such as fender and marshall. Funny thing is that people says they can hear the noise one early ACDC and Metallica records with vintage Marshalls.... Seems like a very common problem when pushing the amp just a tad more than it is supposed to.
 
Also sorry Gorhrut for not providing any info on the RSP yet. I had the flu for a few days. (Very common for me in the winter here in Norway) and Im still pretty obsessed with the GP-1000. Some screenshot will arrive when I get the time.
 
i cant say what effect putting a grid stopper there will have but that stage is not a phase inverter. it is a cathode follower. you may want to do some more research and see if you still wanna go through with that.

and its cool. i cant compare the results until i get an audio interface for mine so.....
 
Ah yes got a bit excited there, the phase inverter is the first preamptube in the power section of an amp, but still this explination could be tested easily in many ways. If I couple the amp to a DI or a mixer and use headphones with that and still get the fizz sound it is still the outputs on the preamp that is overloaded. The sound is the same as in the PI issue and it also could happen in first stage power tube. It is just overdriving the amp out of phase and you get a swirly effect as the pros call it.
Even Cameron from the other forum said that he used caps to ground on all stages to filter out stuff so grid stoppers could be effective as well, besides it is the clone and even if I blow the whole thing it wont make me any sader than snapping a string, the thing is a wreck that needs fixing anyways.
 
Hey guys,

I was playing around with my GP1000 and I just cant achieve the Hatebreeder Sound. I have an original J50-BC and a JE-1000 copy in my RR J2SP (don't know if the copy is pretty good...I would like to make it on my own, but I don't have the right tools for that, I can't make a good quality PCB).
My Settings on the JE-1000 are On-Off-On and the trimmer is full. Settings on the GP-1000 are from the Gear-Thread sticky.
This is the sound I would like to have:

I think the problem is the JE-1000 copy (I tried to turn the trimmer on half, because it gets very muddy with set on full) or the mods on my GP-1000. My amp has both of the mods that Lee Jackson stated here: http://www.metaltronix.net/metaltronix-modification.htm

Can those two mods affect the sound of the preamp that much? Or is it the JE-1000 copy? Thats this one: http://www.ebay.de/itm/311448522060?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


Also I dont know how to set the Intellifex. My poweramp is a H&K VS250. Cabinet is a half closed 1x12 with V30 or the same cab with T75, or a standard Marshall 1960 with T75.


Edit: Is that the right schematic for the JE1000?

Schaltplan.jpg
 
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Btw, I've always seen the JE-1000s on pictures ending in a pot, but Alexi and everyone have a switch on their guitar, so how is it exactly?
 
Btw, I've always seen the JE-1000s on pictures ending in a pot, but Alexi and everyone have a switch on their guitar, so how is it exactly?

You can wire them to a on/off switch. It does the exact same thing as a push/pull pot and wouldn't effect the tone- just more a personal preference (I prefer the switch as your less likely to accidentally activate or deactivate it changing the vol control).
 
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I currently use the GP1000 with a Hughes & Kettner VS250 (EL84 based) poweramp. It sounds good, but I have the chance to get a SP1000.
Would you think that the SP1000 fits better for the old CoB stuff?


Edit: Aaaand...what does the trim pot on the PCB of the GP1000? Is it kind of a bias adjustment for the preamp tubes?
 
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Yo, I bought one of TWCC JE-1000's on eBay a year ago or so, and they are on point. Currently have it in my main guitar. I want to buy a back up for when I eventually get a kemper so I can profile it as part of the amp and thus wont need to have it in my guitars - but they have entirely disappeared. What happened and can I still get one?

Cheers
 
guys is this it? what about the fix on the SPGP? ive been following this thread since it came out and its like holy shit more than 4 years now, for a guy who doesnt know anything about tech stuff other than being able to solder some stuff this thread does a number on your brain lol

so ive had the twcc spgp and je 1000 with a j 50 bc (early model usa) for a while a little more than an year and its a sketchy SPGP, he wasnt going to make me one so he sold the last he had there for himself that got broken on its way here because it was opened, i guess it looked like a bomb or something (tracking number it was inspected in new york or something) apparently all the 4 mods are on but theres no switches to turn them off, no je 1000 on it but the sticker with its layout is there, no sticker layout on the back and SP leds dont work and 87-88 mod i hear 0 difference.

i get a distinctive tone but no...its just not gainy enough, i run it to a jcm 800 g12 65 cab (best cab ive ever heard in my whole fucking life, so crunchy) and all i care for is the follow the reaper lead tone, and alexi documentary tone and this just cant do it at all.

so did anyone find the problem with the spgp? how did sending the amp to alexi tech turn out? wheres everybody lol i need help haha