My new toy!

I bought this yesterday for only £180! :D

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Plays wonderfully!!! :kickass: Such a change from my old bass which was so heavy and really hard to play.
 
I bought this yesterday for only £180! :D

Plays wonderfully!!! :kickass: Such a change from my old bass which was so heavy and really hard to play.

As long as the neck is stable and all the ergonomics work for you there are oodles of widgets and gadgets to modify a Jazz bass.

Now you need a custom pickguard. :p

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As long as the neck is stable and all the ergonomics work for you there are oodles of widgets and gadgets to modify a Jazz bass.

Now you need a custom pickguard. :p

This is only for fun so I didn't want to spend too much money as it's not my main instrument. I love that pickguard!! :headbang:

One question tho, I put my Steve strings on it and they're much quieter than the ones that came on it. Why's that? o_O
 
This is only for fun so I didn't want to spend too much money as it's not my main instrument. I love that pickguard!! :headbang:

One question tho, I put my Steve strings on it and they're much quieter than the ones that came on it. Why's that? o_O

From what I have seen Flatwound strings have a lower output than round wounds. Could be the amount of or the type of metal in them working the pickup magnet different.

I have Steve's set on my SB-1 and rounds on my SB-2 and Steve's are a lower output string but much higher tension.

Be sure to monitor and adjust your truss rod over the next week.

Jim
 
Um...what?? o_O Remember you are talking to a complete idiot here - I haven't a clue what you just said!! :lol: You might as well have told me in Russian!! :lol: Can you explain for me please? :oops:

Look at your bass or your guitar. Same concept on truss rods either way since they both have them. Bet you got some allen wrenches with that bass huh?

The strings attach to the bridge and the headstock. The strings are tuned to pitch and the tension of the strings pulls the headstock and the bridge towards each other. The thing that is weakest that has to resist and withstand the force is the neck.

See below the amount of tension in kg tuned up for a set of bass strings. Not quite as high tension as the SH set though. All total 81.5 Kilograms of force against the wood of the neck.

G 20.73 kg

D 23.58 kg

A 19.82 kg

E 17.41 kg

Wood cut thin like a guitar or bass neck would eventually warp under such stress.

Built into the neck is a counter force to help the wood and it is the truss rod. Every guitar or bass has one an the adjustment could be at the headstock like yours or the heel of the neck where it connects to the body.

This is turned to apply enough counter force in the neck to set correctly for what is referred to as "relief". The neck will be slightly concave, as in a little dip in it, if you look straight down from the headstock.

When you change string makes, brands, etc they may have different tensions so the counterforce for the old set may be too much or too little for the new set.

The Steve Harris string set is very high tension and you will probably see a greater dip in your neck than it originally had. The action will get higher due to the shift. No big thing, it just would need the rod tightened.

If it gets convex and bows upward you need to looses the rod so the string tension pulls it back to the proper position

This is part of what you pay a guitar tech to do is adjust this stuff. Once adjusted in to your usual set of strings you may have to tweak it a couple of times a year depending on the seasonal conditions making the wood shift.

Usually a 1/4 or less turn of the rod will suffice for a seasonal adjustment. Turn, wait 24 hours for it to settle, and adjust again if needed.

I think the SH set needed about a 1/2 turn on my bass when I put them on.

Cornfrused?

Learning how to do a "set up" will save you in the long run so you don't run it to a tech and pay all the time for something you can handle at home.

Jim
 
Yeah you do need to keep an eye on the neck of guitars and basses.
Tip the guitar over and look along the neck from the bottom of the bass. it should look near enough straight, if its concave, you need to tighten the nut, if its convex, you need to slacken the nut. I think thats the right way round!

I left my BC Rich warlock unused for about 18 months, I now have a lovely crack on the thin cover on the rear of the neck and some damage to the headstock.

I've had it checked out and was informed it is only cosmetic damage though!!!


Make sure you keep the guitar in a moderate temperature room, and if you dont have one already buy a guitar stand or wall hangar.



My next musical purchaases will be, a schecter Damien 6 guitar and the Digitech GNX 3000 effects board.
I contemplated learnig bass at one point but thought stuff it, i have 4 guitars and dont really need to learn bass.
 
Read up on it....

Wikipedia entry....

A shop will charge you a fee to do this but you can do it yourself and every guitar or bass player should learn to do very basic maintenance like this.

There are times that you need to have a luthier look at stuff but not for a seasonal tweak.

Jim
 
Access to the truss rod adjustment is via the recess in the headstock, above the top nut and below the tuning pegs.


Tip: Mark the rod top nut as it is now. That way you will be able to see how far you have adjusted it.

No more than quarter of a turn at a time, and only if it needs adjusting.....dont play with these things.

Ok, I will keep that in mind. Thanks!
 
I haven't done anything with it yet because a. I can't find allen key to fit and b. I only have two of the Steve strings on it just now cos I transferred them from my other bass and cos the tuning keys are in different places, the other two don't fit. Do you think I should wait till I've got some more Steve strings before adjusting it or do it now?
 
Wait till you have brand new strings on before trying to adjust.


I would have left those strings on your old bass and boought a new set for this one. But then I get moaned at by may mates that I never change guitar strings....its not uncommon for my strings to look rusty......they arent, but look that way.


Anyway, you need to give the neck tme to settle down. Change strings see what it does, chances are they will be a dif guage. And then if the neck does not look straight you adjust it. If its straight after say 24/48 hours, you dont need to adjust it.
 
Wait till you have brand new strings on before trying to adjust.


I would have left those strings on your old bass and boought a new set for this one. But then I get moaned at by may mates that I never change guitar strings....its not uncommon for my strings to look rusty......they arent, but look that way.

Anyway, you need to give the neck tme to settle down. Change strings see what it does, chances are they will be a dif guage. And then if the neck does not look straight you adjust it. If its straight after say 24/48 hours, you dont need to adjust it.

What he said.

Jim
 
Wait till you have brand new strings on before trying to adjust.


I would have left those strings on your old bass and boought a new set for this one. But then I get moaned at by may mates that I never change guitar strings....its not uncommon for my strings to look rusty......they arent, but look that way.


Anyway, you need to give the neck tme to settle down. Change strings see what it does, chances are they will be a dif guage. And then if the neck does not look straight you adjust it. If its straight after say 24/48 hours, you dont need to adjust it.

Normally I wouldn't have changed them but they were only a week or so old and very expensive so I wasn't wanting to leave them on a bass I'm never gonna play!

Right, I will try that. Thanks!
 
So I got my new SH strings today and put them on. I tried finding an allen key to fit (I didn't get one with the bass) the first one seemed to small and the next size up was too big. With the smaller one it seemed to fit but didn't seem to turn the lock. It is really easy to turn the truss rod lock or should it have been quite stiff? I don't want to fart about with it too much at a risk of damaging the guitar.