The Children Of Bodom Gear Thread

[SIND]

So incredible to see it after so many years!

 

[Sany]

So cool, Guitar looks a bit used

 

[Saggitarius_a]

From Facebook Group
ESP & LTD Guitars

1. The "Ripped" model was initially called the "Ripper Sawtooth"
2. Alexi's first ESP was designed based on the Kai Hansen signature ESP model(RV-280KH) at that time.
(The first two Alexi models that went into production are the Arrow Head and the Scythe, the Arrow Head was called RV-350AL, and the Scythe was called RV-398AL)
3. The "Katakana" model was designed by Kai Saarikko(head of MUSAMAAILMA) because he likes Japanese culture and stuff.
*The inlays on the 12th fret are written in Katakana (a type of Japanese characters used for spelling foreign languages)
The letters "アレキシ" are pronounced as "A-RE-KI-SHI" (Alexi)
(Ok, this has nothing to do with the Ripped and Hexed, but since it was mentioned in the interview I might as well just share it.)
4. The "Ripped" model was developed by both Alexi and ESP Guitars Finland(MUSAMAAILMA)
The aesthetics were designed by the social media manager of MUSAMAAILMA, and the neck single-coil pickup was Alexi's idea.
Kai Saarikko recalled that Alexi mentioned he wanted a neck pickup for some clean stuff.
5. During Bodom After Midnight's recording session, Alexi tried out a lot of different guitars, he and all his bandmates all agreed that the "Ripped" model sounded the best.
(So it seems very likely that the only EP they've released was recorded with that guitar.)
6. The "Hexed" model was developed by "ESP USA". Tony Rauser of ESP USA talked to Alexi back in 2019 about the idea of designing a guitar based on the last Children of Bodom album "Hexed" artwork.
Alexi played the "Hexed" model on Bodom After Midnight's debut show.

 

[BtownNinja]

From Facebook Group
ESP & LTD Guitars

1. The "Ripped" model was initially called the "Ripper Sawtooth"
2. Alexi's first ESP was designed based on the Kai Hansen signature ESP model(RV-280KH) at that time.
(The first two Alexi models that went into production are the Arrow Head and the Scythe, the Arrow Head was called RV-350AL, and the Scythe was called RV-398AL)
3. The "Katakana" model was designed by Kai Saarikko(head of MUSAMAAILMA) because he likes Japanese culture and stuff.
*The inlays on the 12th fret are written in Katakana (a type of Japanese characters used for spelling foreign languages)
The letters "アレキシ" are pronounced as "A-RE-KI-SHI" (Alexi)
(Ok, this has nothing to do with the Ripped and Hexed, but since it was mentioned in the interview I might as well just share it.)
4. The "Ripped" model was developed by both Alexi and ESP Guitars Finland(MUSAMAAILMA)
The aesthetics were designed by the social media manager of MUSAMAAILMA, and the neck single-coil pickup was Alexi's idea.
Kai Saarikko recalled that Alexi mentioned he wanted a neck pickup for some clean stuff.
5. During Bodom After Midnight's recording session, Alexi tried out a lot of different guitars, he and all his bandmates all agreed that the "Ripped" model sounded the best.
(So it seems very likely that the only EP they've released was recorded with that guitar.)
6. The "Hexed" model was developed by "ESP USA". Tony Rauser of ESP USA talked to Alexi back in 2019 about the idea of designing a guitar based on the last Children of Bodom album "Hexed" artwork.
Alexi played the "Hexed" model on Bodom After Midnight's debut show.

Very cool. Thank you for posting!

I'm super excited to get my hands on these. I went with the E-II Ripped and LTD Hexed. PERSONALLY, I would have liked to see the hexed full art similar to the "I Worship Chaos", but I still really dig the purple on purple. Lack of stainless steel frets is a bummer and the white inlays are a little boring too.

One of my main guitars is an MH-1000 with a slanted single coil neck pickup like that.

 

[NewHewkas]

I searched for the RV-280KH just to see how it looks and found this:



Titled: ESP Pre-Lawsuit Kai Hansen Signature RV280KH

I wonder who sued ESP

Here's the release version:

 

[Works0fheart]

Very cool. Thank you for posting!

I'm super excited to get my hands on these. I went with the E-II Ripped and LTD Hexed. PERSONALLY, I would have liked to see the hexed full art similar to the "I Worship Chaos", but I still really dig the purple on purple. Lack of stainless steel frets is a bummer and the white inlays are a little boring too.

One of my main guitars is an MH-1000 with a slanted single coil neck pickup like that.

The E-II should have stainless steel frets I'm pretty sure. ESP announced earlier this year that their LTD 1000 series guitars, E-IIs, and upwards would all have them standard across their guitars.

I'd really like to find an E-II with the proper lower wing length personally. That'll probably be my next buy and (hopefully) last for a while. A lot of great guitars in production right now though lol

 

[BtownNinja]

The E-II should have stainless steel frets I'm pretty sure. ESP announced earlier this year that their LTD 1000 series guitars, E-IIs, and upwards would all have them standard across their guitars.

I'd really like to find an E-II with the proper lower wing length personally. That'll probably be my next buy and (hopefully) last for a while. A lot of great guitars in production right now though lol

I contacted ESP about it. Even the custom shop ESP models are nickel frets on the Alexi guitars. All his models will be nickel which seems silly given the price and I'm pretty sure Alexi himself used stainless steel.

Certainly unpopular opinion, but I prefer the 'wrong' longer lower wings. They feel more comfortable to play sitting down. They don't look as good though, I'll give you that.

 

[Fastbodom]

I contacted ESP about it. Even the custom shop ESP models are nickel frets on the Alexi guitars. All his models will be nickel which seems silly given the price and I'm pretty sure Alexi himself used stainless steel.

Certainly unpopular opinion, but I prefer the 'wrong' longer lower wings. They feel more comfortable to play sitting down. They don't look as good though, I'll give you that.

Alexi Brought most of his guitars to a local Luthier or it was someone from MUSAMAAILMA changing the frets on his guitars,

 

[BtownNinja]

Alexi Brought most of his guitars to a local Luthier or it was someone from MUSAMAAILMA changing the frets on his guitars,

Interesting. I've heard a similar story about his main Pinky guitar. I wonder if ESP Japan just doesn't/didn't do/prefer stainless steel. In the announcement, they made no mention of adding stainless steel as default for E-II, only LTD 1000 series.

I've been considering refretting my Edwards Katakana model with evo frets. I got it used about a year ago. The previous owner/s must have done many releveling/crowning as they are down to about a medium. I've only refretting two guitars though, so I'm a little nervous doing it on one of my favorites.

 

[-AnzzA-]

Alexi Brought most of his guitars to a local Luthier or it was someone from MUSAMAAILMA changing the frets on his guitars,

It was Ruokangas Guitars in Finland who did the fretwork. Alexi's old guitar tech Antti mentioned this in a gear interview. Antti showing and talking about Alexi's and Roope's guitars between 5:00-8:00 in this video.

 

[drawnacrol]

Ruokangas do incredible fretwork. His guitars would have played like butter after they re-fretted them.

For most famous/touring musicians they don't have to care about stainless frets because they have a tech constantly polishing any oxidation off and get so many guitars that wearing down frets isn't a concern. A lot of companies don't like working with it because it involves buying higher quality tools so they just wear out their regular nickel geared tools.

 

[dthmtl3]

True. Plus artists are getting new guitars, what, every time they release a new album. Unless they like the feel of stainless steel frets. But for us mortals SS frets are a great option.

 

[Whiteknuckle Deathgrip]

My ESP M-II, thats just turned 26 years old in August, has plain old nickel frets, and it's possible that it'll need a refret or levelling/crowning deal in a few years, but it still plays great. I think for normal consumers, the need for stainless frets is negligible. I know some of you guys practice alot, so you might see the need, or maybe you play one certain guitar most of the time. I have yet to wear down the frets of a guitar.

 

[BtownNinja]

My ESP M-II, thats just turned 26 years old in August, has plain old nickel frets, and it's possible that it'll need a refret or levelling/crowning deal in a few years, but it still plays great. I think for normal consumers, the need for stainless frets is negligible. I know some of you guys practice alot, so you might see the need, or maybe you play one certain guitar most of the time. I have yet to wear down the frets of a guitar.

I think it very much depends on the quality of the nickel/copper/whatever else alloy. I bought a brand new Charvel DK24 in 2019 or so and it's already showing significantly more fret wear than any of my other guitars ranging from 2005 to present. I don't play this guitar more than any other, but for whatever reason, the frets are wearing out very rapidly. I'm noticing the same on one of my new Ibanez guitars too.

Even though it's not all that major yet, it's still something that will deter mine from buying another Charvel/Ibanez until they have stainless steel frets. No issues with any ESP/LTD/Edwards nickel frets yet thankfully.

 

[Whiteknuckle Deathgrip]

I think it very much depends on the quality of the nickel/copper/whatever else alloy. I bought a brand new Charvel DK24 in 2019 or so and it's already showing significantly more fret wear than any of my other guitars ranging from 2005 to present. I don't play this guitar more than any other, but for whatever reason, the frets are wearing out very rapidly. I'm noticing the same on one of my new Ibanez guitars too.

Even though it's not all that major yet, it's still something that will deter mine from buying another Charvel/Ibanez until they have stainless steel frets. No issues with any ESP/LTD/Edwards nickel frets yet thankfully.

So the issue might pertain to certain fretwite manufacturers or the alloy specific brands uses?
If not for my ESP and LTD's, I'd have gone the Jackson route. Like the look if many soloist, dinky and rhoads, and the spec on pro series is on point compared to LTD kn the same price range. Like.. you gotta at least go black metal for a floyd 1000, but they priced higher than many pro series Jacksons.

 

[BtownNinja]

So the issue might pertain to certain fretwite manufacturers or the alloy specific brands uses?
If not for my ESP and LTD's, I'd have gone the Jackson route. Like the look if many soloist, dinky and rhoads, and the spec on pro series is on point compared to LTD kn the same price range. Like.. you gotta at least go black metal for a floyd 1000, but they priced higher than many pro series Jacksons.

Ya it's probably a fret wire supplier more so than a brand. The Charvel is made in Mexico by fender, so it's likely what ever brand or supplier they use/used cheaper out on fret wire material.

As for Jackson, your milage may vary (true with any mass produced guitars). They recent switched to a Chinese factory. From what I've played, quality is decent but fit and finish take a hit just like some Indonesian LTD lately. I think the Jackson Pro are similar in price to the Ltd 1000 series too, no? Ive never played a Jackson neck that I've loved at any price range. Still make some very cool guitars tho.

None of these are as awful as the Indonesian Ibanezs I've played lately.... Seems like no quality control is done on those. My $1,400+ axion label was literally unplayable on frets 1-4 without a full fret level and dress. Lots of other problems with it too. Same with my Satch sig

 

[Whiteknuckle Deathgrip]

Ya it's probably a fret wire supplier more so than a brand. The Charvel is made in Mexico by fender, so it's likely what ever brand or supplier they use/used cheaper out on fret wire material.

As for Jackson, your milage may vary (true with any mass produced guitars). They recent switched to a Chinese factory. From what I've played, quality is decent but fit and finish take a hit just like some Indonesian LTD lately. I think the Jackson Pro are similar in price to the Ltd 1000 series too, no? Ive never played a Jackson neck that I've loved at any price range. Still make some very cool guitars tho.

None of these are as awful as the Indonesian Ibanezs I've played lately.... Seems like no quality control is done on those. My $1,400+ axion label was literally unplayable on frets 1-4 without a full fret level and dress. Lots of other problems with it too. Same with my Satch sig

This will probably put me more towards the M-II Black metal, with and EMG ALX Set. Seems like a no-brainer. Either that or an E-II M-II to match my old one.

 

[Whiteknuckle Deathgrip]

What do you guys do for pedals?
I like to keep a few on hand for certain stuff and different occasions.
Ideally I'd like a few on a board with the MIDI switch for my rack, but I'd also like a all-in-one grab'n go board for direct or with an amp.
What do you guys use for wah and delay?
Anyone use a standalone preamp pedal?

I figure I either get an HX Stomp, or an AMT preamp and the NUX Atlantic.
I already have the NUX Solid Studio - poweramp and IR box and a tuner. I use the Solid Studio at the end of my ENGL E530 and TC G-Major for silent practice, but I think about making a more portable rig.
Might also incorporate a pedal-sized poweramp.

What kind of stuff do you guys use nowadays?

 

[BtownNinja]

What do you guys do for pedals?
I like to keep a few on hand for certain stuff and different occasions.
Ideally I'd like a few on a board with the MIDI switch for my rack, but I'd also like a all-in-one grab'n go board for direct or with an amp.
What do you guys use for wah and delay?
Anyone use a standalone preamp pedal?

I figure I either get an HX Stomp, or an AMT preamp and the NUX Atlantic.
I already have the NUX Solid Studio - poweramp and IR box and a tuner. I use the Solid Studio at the end of my ENGL E530 and TC G-Major for silent practice, but I think about making a more portable rig.
Might also incorporate a pedal-sized poweramp.

What kind of stuff do you guys use nowadays?

My home setup is a stereo rack mount Synergy SYN-2 pre-amp and SYN-5050 power amp. For pedals, I use a boss GT-1000 Core, JHS Bonsai, JHS Muffuletta, Boss RC-500, and Boss Dimension C waza. All of that is run into a Boss ES-8 switcher for switching and midi. I used to have a few more pedals, but they got replaced with that GT-1000 core. I only use that for effects, but I've toyed a little with the pre-amp stuff on it.

My travel rig is dead simple these days. Boss GT-1000 core and Revv G20. I used to use a portable synergy setup with the SYN-1, Orange STAMP, and a few pedals, but it was heavy and the DI options weren't great. Plus, that orange stamp was a pain in the ass because it didn't' have a master volume when running pre-amps into the effects loop so I needed a volume pedal between the pre-amp and STAMP. STAMP is noisy too. Revv G20 is overkill, but I like using the headphones out since it can apply custom IR and stuff to the headphone out. Best sounding 'headphone amp' I've ever used.

All in all, the GT-1000 core has been amazing for my needs. Easy to use, sounds great, and very flexible. As mentioned, I was able to get rid of/sell off a handful of pedals since this thing kinda does it all. I kept my JHS pedals for flexibility and well... because I just love them. My 'only major complaint' with the core is that running a stereo signal through it and the ES-8 is confusing and convoluted.

 

[Muffin]

Fractal FM3 for all my amp and effects needs. I plug it into my Matrix GT1000 power amp, into my ENGL 4x12 w/ Vintage 30's at rehearsals.
I have a Morley Bad Horsie 2 for wah, but I don't really ever use it anymore. I like the optical switching it has tho.