If you like SED =C= tubes, buy em NOW before it's too late...

Tung-Sol are good. The mids are less accentuated and the bottom end is a bit tighter compared to -C-. Having also used reissue Mullards and vintage '60's and 70's Mullards in my '77 Marshall, the Tung-Sols compared well overall. The real tone changes happen when I mess with the 12ax7's.
 
Ive just bought a new 6505 with JJ 6l6s, ive messed around with a quad matched set of winged C 6l6s and thought the JJs sounded better.

Might this be a bias issue? I thought the SEDs sounded a but brittle and harsh compared to the full sounding JJs, how is the bias set on those amps at beginning, are thez biased for JJs or is there some kind of "general" bias which will let most powertubes in without the need of being ashamed of themselves?

If thats the case, I guess Im a JJ guz
 
has anyone had experience with the Tung-Sol power tubes?
I like their 12ax7's a lot, never tried their 6L6, el34, 6550, kt88 though...how do they compare to =C=?

I haven't tried them my self, but i have been asking around allot(Since both Tung-Sol and =C= seems to be close to impossible to get in Sweden.), and from what i've heard Tung-Sol's Platinum tubes are just as good as =C=.
Of course there are tonal differences, but its essentially down to a preference.

This sucks though.. because i was just considering saving up some cash to retube my Randall. :(
 
Good news!

Having a company has it's perks, one of which is becoming a dealer for certain products. I now carry SED tubes. If anyone wants a quad or two, let me know. I can do $140 shipped. Matched quads of course. That's $40 less than everyone else.
 
BTW I carry JJ, Sovtek Valve Art, GT, TAD, Ruby, EH, etc etc. Just let me know what you need, I'll do my best to beat others prices.
 
BTW I carry JJ, Sovtek Valve Art, GT, TAD, Ruby, EH, etc etc. Just let me know what you need, I'll do my best to beat others prices.

Fucking rad. I would love to buy from a fellow forum bro.

Also, if you want to get into some NOS and vintage stuff, I have a connection I used to work with. He's big into audiophile stuff and picks up loads of NOS tubes all the time. He sells some stuff on ebay as bcguitar. http://myworld.ebay.com/bcguitar
 
I know in your sig it says to PM you, but what type of prices are we looking at for a 16mm audio taper 250k pot? I can't find any local stored that don't have the ridiculously long shafts, and I would rather order online from a fewllow sneapster. Also, what type of prices we looking at for a pair of =C= and do you carry Svetlanas?
 
I know in your sig it says to PM you, but what type of prices are we looking at for a 16mm audio taper 250k pot? I can't find any local stored that don't have the ridiculously long shafts, and I would rather order online from a fewllow sneapster. Also, what type of prices we looking at for a pair of =C= and do you carry Svetlanas?

Closest I can get to on the pot is a 17mm Bourns, split or solid shaft. $3.75 +shipping.

For the SED's I can do a matched pair for $70 shipped.

Svet's I can get, but right now my distributor only has EL-34's.
 
Cool thanks. 17 is fine, I just need something small enough to fit for a mid sweep on my 5150 between the pots on the board.

I have been a real stickler about precision since I started studying for my degree when it came to datasheet specifications, and the 5150 does not adhere to most of them. The only tubes that I could find that would handle the 5150's ridiculous voltages are the Svet 6L6s. If I don't go that route and decide to modify so that a larger range of tubes where usable, I would just rather modify the amp to run 2 KT88s which I might do. I don't know yet, we will see depending on what type of mods I do. So either way I will buy at least some =C= or some various brand KT88 (probably JJ) from you in the near future to replace my very old WXT+ and one WXT (yes you heard right, the previous owner had 1 WXT+ Sovtek, one Sovtek WTX and two WXT+ with no Sovtek labels).

I just might mod my amp and buy two KT88's because I don not have the money to run 4 =C=, besides I would like to get my 5150 to sound more personalized and would like to get away from 6L6s, hell with the mod to run KT88s I could even run EL34s depending on how I implement my mod, who knows.
 
I like the sound of the KT88's, but for the price of a quad it's nuts. And hell, they aren't even being used to their full potential in an amp designed for 100-120 watts.

Have you tried KT66's? Little different flavor than most 6L6s, but still similar.
 
Well you can't run a quad in a 5150 for a number of reasons, including they won't fit and the heaters pull way more current than a 6L6. That was a huge reason I was looking at load lines, I was going through every tube in the book to see what would be better with a 5150 without any mods but it looks like even most 6L6s can't handle them. I looked at KT66s but from what I was hearing is that they are smoother than 6L6s which is NOT what I want. If I step away from 6L6, I want either more crunch, girth/thickness, edge, or a mixture of the three.

What do you mean not be able to run at full potential? from what I gathered, if you managed to drop the screen voltage to 300v, two KT88s would be able to run perfectly (and better than the majority of 6L6s) giving you 80 watts max in class AB without posing any danger to a 5150. Four however, if you could fit them, would get dangerous for both transformers and would sag the supply too much.

Every time I heat something about 6550s or KT88s it always crunch and thickness and sometimes, "KT88s are sometimes too thick for some people, which 6550s are a perfect alternative". Thats what I am talking about, the "smooth" top end of a 6L6 is just not my style. I want something that has the mids and crunch like an EL34, but the power and low end (but still tight) like a 6L6.
 
What about TAD tubes? I've heard good things about them. Probably gonna get a set. Might be a good alternative. Though I haven't heard either. So I can't tell.