Photgraphy Thread

With the music as loud as it is, the whole floor shakes. I've found that if you're not using a big telephoto lens, it is best to hand-hold your camera and let your body absorb some of the vibration before it gets to your camera. A metal tripod or monopod will do nothing to dampen the vibration.

If you're seated while taking pics, you can use your thighs to sturdy your elbows. If you wear a baseball cap, you can use the brim of the hat to further steady the camera as you hold the camera to your face. Also, gently squeeze the shutter versus pressing it. Inhale as you press the shutter halfway, and exhale as you press the shutter completely down. All minor tips, but they do add up to help get sharper pics.

You can see a portfolio of my concert photos including PPIII and PPIV at the URL below:

www.vpdigital.net
 
The Fiddler said:
With the music as loud as it is, the whole floor shakes. I've found that if you're not using a big telephoto lens, it is best to hand-hold your camera and let your body absorb some of the vibration before it gets to your camera. A metal tripod or monopod will do nothing to dampen the vibration.

If you're seated while taking pics, you can use your thighs to sturdy your elbows. If you wear a baseball cap, you can use the brim of the hat to further steady the camera as you hold the camera to your face. Also, gently squeeze the shutter versus pressing it. Inhale as you press the shutter halfway, and exhale as you press the shutter completely down. All minor tips, but they do add up to help get sharper pics.

You can see a portfolio of my concert photos including PPIII and PPIV at the URL below:

www.vpdigital.net
Click to expand...


Dude, your work is amazing, is it digital, film or both.
 
Fiddler,

You've got some nice work in your portfolio. Thanks for the tips, hadn't really thought about vibrations making tripod/monopods useless. I've just taken an interest in photography in the last few months so even though this will be my 3rd ProgPower it will be my first with camera in tow.

For your closer-in shots, did you shoot from the bleachers with zoom/telephoto using available light and a high ISO, or did you try to get in close enough on the floor to use flash? (I do have an external flash that's fairly powerful, but I'm thinking available light shots should look better if you can avoid camera shake).
 
jkohn,

My best success has been when I'm closest to the light source (stage). I've tried shooting from the seats, but with mixed results - mainly because the lighting is just too low for the camera to focus accurately. Opening the aperture to let in more light reduces your depth of field making focusing that more critcal. Slowing the shutter down increases blur. Increasing the ISO to 400 or higher increases grain in the images. In other words, concert photography is really a challenge. Throw in the fact that the lighting changes literally every second and that the musicians have ants in their pants and a difficult job gets even more difficult. Needless to say my ratio of good pics to poor pics is pretty small. That's why it is important to take as many pics as possible - to increase your odds of getting a well exoposed shot and composition.

Flash doesn't usually help unless you're up close and can use an ISO of 100 or 200. If you use a flash at ISO 400, you will get extremely grainy pics (even more than if you shot just ISO 400 w/o flash). I try to avoid flash if at all possible just because it usually drowns out a lot of color and makes the musicians look pale. Flash is an atmosphere killer. If you are able to pivot your flash to use it more as a bounce flash or fill flash, you might be able to lighten the subject just enough without overpowering the colored lights. Without flash, I usually shoot at f2.4 and 1/20 sec at ISO 200.
 
The Fiddler said:
jkohn,

My best success has been when I'm closest to the light source (stage). I've tried shooting from the seats, but with mixed results - mainly because the lighting is just too low for the camera to focus accurately. Opening the aperture to let in more light reduces your depth of field making focusing that more critcal. Slowing the shutter down increases blur. Increasing the ISO to 400 or higher increases grain in the images. In other words, concert photography is really a challenge. Throw in the fact that the lighting changes literally every second and that the musicians have ants in their pants and a difficult job gets even more difficult. Needless to say my ratio of good pics to poor pics is pretty small. That's why it is important to take as many pics as possible - to increase your odds of getting a well exoposed shot and composition.

Flash doesn't usually help unless you're up close and can use an ISO of 100 or 200. If you use a flash at ISO 400, you will get extremely grainy pics (even more than if you shot just ISO 400 w/o flash). I try to avoid flash if at all possible just because it usually drowns out a lot of color and makes the musicians look pale. Flash is an atmosphere killer. If you are able to pivot your flash to use it more as a bounce flash or fill flash, you might be able to lighten the subject just enough without overpowering the colored lights. Without flash, I usually shoot at f2.4 and 1/20 sec at ISO 200.
Click to expand...

Fiddler,

which camera are you using, I just got may hands on a Canon EOS Digital Rebel, it's a six megapixel camera. I'm have really good results at ISO 400 +, with an 80-300 zoom.

I tend to shoot with a really short depth of field (it's a personal preference). The built in pop up flash isn't to obnoxious. In auto mode it seems to do some meetering.

If you can get your hands on one of these it's well worth the money.
 
Scooter,

With a Digital Rebel you shouldn't have any problem shooting at ISO 400 or even 800, that camera takes pretty clean pictures from what I've heard. I have a FujiFilm S7000. It actually takes decent pictures at IS0400 compared to other non-DSLR's; they do have some noise in them but nothing that can't be cleaned up with a little post-processing. I'll probably experiment with ISO200 and ISO400 and try shooting without flash.


Shreddy,

Thanks for posting those, nice pics. The fact that the EXIF information is helpful since it should help give me an idea of what to expect as far as results for a given exposure setting.
 
scooterSST,

You have a very nice camera in the Canon Digital Rebel. The Canon digital SLRs are quite good at low noise at high-ISO settings. I have a Sony F707, but will be getting a Canon before Iced Earth rolls around Chicago in April. It will be the 10D or the new 1D Mark II depending on reviews and availability.

I too like a short depth of field - it's just more challenging to pull off with the subject constantly on the move.
 
shreddy said:
Speaking of photos is there a location that I should post my PPUSA 4 pics? I have some posted at my gallery.

http://www.pbase.com/eddyb/ppusa4
Click to expand...

Shreddy,

Some nice shots in your galleries. They will make good additions to the PP photo galleries. I really like a couple of shots of Tarja, especially:

ppusa2003_006.jpg

Great emotion on the face of the performer, little background clutter, and a crisp image.
 
Harvester said:
Yes. Visit the gallery here. It is interactive.

Glenn H.
Click to expand...

Being passionate about metal and photography, I must give a big thumbs up to Deron for building the new interactive photo gallery into the PPUSA website. It's fun to relive the experience of past events and "see how other people see" the event through their own eyes when they press the shutter.

If I had one recommendation to those who post, I'd stress quality over quantity. I'd rather look at one terrific shot rather than ten blurry, grainy, underexposed or otherwise mediocre photos. When you post, you are representing your talents and tastes, so give us your best. :)
 
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