Starting My Own Amp Company

t_m_h said:
Sorry for off-topic but how difficult it would be to build a high gain amp like a Soldano clone and how much do the parts cost? And how much would it cost if I wanted to build pre-amp only?
And on the topic, it would be awesome if the amp had a control for tight-loose so you could adjust for a biting tone or a sludgy one. I don't know if that's possible but it would rule. And the Wolf theme is awesome too, do the glowing eye thing, it will look fierce
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Price on an SLO clone can fluctuate greatly, depending on what type of components you choose to use. I chose the middle ground with mine, and ended up spending around $800 if I remember correctly, including 5 Tung Sol 12ax7's and 4 Winged C 6L6's. If you want a head shell, add in more money. If you just wanted to build the preamp section, my estimate would be around $400, might be able to do it for less.
 
So I need some more input..... Do you guys care about a tube driven effects loop or are you okay with solid state driven loops? I know some people are always like 'toobz only!!!' but in my opinion I'd rather use that other half of the tube for the preamp and go with a SS loop.

Most modern amps loops are SS btw, with a few exceptions...
 
Yeah, I've heard that tube FX loops actually sound worse because of the coloration, hence why Peavey's are lauded for their loops (SS) and Mesa lampooned (tube). And just in case you weren't planning on it, it'd help if EVERY amp you made would have an FX loop, both for impulse recording and for using the power amp by itself with a different preamp.
 
Yeah, if you could design it like the 5150 (where - if I'm not mistaken - you can run it in standby and pass signal through the preamp without turning on the power section) that would save a lot of people a lot of effort.

Jeff
 
Actually, I think it's Engls that let you do that (either way I know the 5150 doesn't), but good call Jeff, that'd definitely rule too.
 
JBroll said:
Yeah, if you could design it like the 5150 (where - if I'm not mistaken - you can run it in standby and pass signal through the preamp without turning on the power section) that would save a lot of people a lot of effort.

Jeff
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Too easy:headbang:
 
Wolfe,

Yeah, i am at sloclone´s...I took a look at Jed´s OD3 switching but i didnt really understand how it worked. I had some talks with Joey about using CMOS or Fets for this, but i still dont understand how the signalling works to ´tell´ whatever is switching to do its job. There´s also that guy who cloned a 3 channel DR and the switching is on the schematic

If you want a SS loop you can just get TUT´s loop. I have it somewhere on my email. You really dont need much more things to do a parallel/series loop, as any serial loop can turn into a parallel one with just a couple mods. If you really want to go just serial, just use the 5150 loop, or take a look at the forum and it has a few SIMPLE but transparent loops.

As for the mid sweep thing, did you take a look at the Krank Rev thread that was going on a while ago ? IIRC, its is just a 250k pot going from the cathode follower, so it could go from 0 to 250k slope. I had done this to one of my clones before but it was a 33k resistor in series with a 50k pot. So, it could go basically from marshall to fender slope. IMO it is really not worth, and it is easier to put an ON-OFF-ON dpdt switch, and a 33k resistor and whatever values you want on the switch. This way, you could have, for example, 33k (marshall), 47k (SLO/DR) and 100k (Fender) slope resistor. Or you could just use a push/pull mid pot that could change the slope resistor (or the treble cap). IMHO it would give a cleaner external layout.
 
AND, I would much prefer the simplicity of a "mid frequency select" switch, rather than a whole 'nother knob to futz around with! :ill: And Engls have a knob on their loops that functions as a "mix" knob, so it ranges from 100% dry signal to 100% wet - series/parallel debate solved!
 
jangoux said:
Wolfe,

Yeah, i am at sloclone´s...I took a look at Jed´s OD3 switching but i didnt really understand how it worked. I had some talks with Joey about using CMOS or Fets for this, but i still dont understand how the signalling works to ´tell´ whatever is switching to do its job. There´s also that guy who cloned a 3 channel DR and the switching is on the schematic
Click to expand...

Yeah that switching system he has kinda confused me at first, but the more I look at it the more it makes sense.... Just seems kind of overkill for some reason, specifically the foot switch. I found a great site for implementing MIDI, and I am for sure going to be going that route. If you are interested check it out here http://tomscarff.tripod.com/ ..... Pretty simple, you just send it a message, and it turns on and off the relays. Needs a few tweaks, but should work nicely.

jangoux said:
If you want a SS loop you can just get TUT´s loop. I have it somewhere on my email. You really dont need much more things to do a parallel/series loop, as any serial loop can turn into a parallel one with just a couple mods. If you really want to go just serial, just use the 5150 loop, or take a look at the forum and it has a few SIMPLE but transparent loops.
Click to expand...

I drew up a SS loop today. It's pretty much the Marshall 2203 reissue loop, with the addition of series/parallel switch and pots for the send/return.

jangoux said:
This way, you could have, for example, 33k (marshall), 47k (SLO/DR) and 100k (Fender) slope resistor. Or you could just use a push/pull mid pot that could change the slope resistor (or the treble cap). IMHO it would give a cleaner external layout.
Click to expand...

That's what I had originally planned, and will probably do. In an effort to keep costs down, I have to try hard to not go overboard on little things, and use the money elsewhere for important things (like MIDI switching:headbang:)
 
Ok, send me one of these... Ill get em big in TX. I know everybody around this fuckin place
 
By the way Eric, I figure this is as good a place to ask as any - why do most tube amps I've seen have two big transformers, rather than just one? What does each do?
 
Metaltastic said:
By the way Eric, I figure this is as good a place to ask as any - why do most tube amps I've seen have two big transformers, rather than just one? What does each do?
Click to expand...

One is to change good old wall voltage into power your amp can use, called a power transformer. The other one is an output transformer; it basically changes the high-voltage/low-current(high-impedance) signal from the tubes into a low-voltage/high-current(low-impedance) signal that the speaker can use.

There is a bit more to it but you should get the idea.

You may notice that most SS amps don't have an output transformer, and instead of having an impedance selector, they usually have a 'do not exceed' rating(same as in SS car audio amps).
 
Wolfe, So, can you explain me OD3´s switching ? :) I will take alook at the midi thing right now.
 
Wolfeman said:
One is to change good old wall voltage into power your amp can use, called a power transformer. The other one is an output transformer; it basically changes the high-voltage/low-current(high-impedance) signal from the tubes into a low-voltage/high-current(low-impedance) signal that the speaker can use.

There is a bit more to it but you should get the idea.

You may notice that most SS amps don't have an output transformer, and instead of having an impedance selector, they usually have a 'do not exceed' rating(same as in SS car audio amps).
Click to expand...

Cool dude, makes sense, thanks!
 
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