LEE JACKSON GP-1000 88 replica for sale

According to my calculations, it should be around 340-360 EUR for GP1000 (including. tubes) and 300-320 EUR for one channel SP1000. When combined together into one rack, 620-650 EUR.

The prices for half rack or cheap non-rack enclosure will be lower, but not more than 20-25 EUR down.

I am trying to shave costs wherever possible, maybe it will go a bit lower, but can't promise that.


Come on nunofrg, you could have read the stuff a little more :D

//edit: Also, MaximHateCrew, the cost of SP1000 depends mostly on transistors, it is fckin hard to even buy them. If I can find a good deal, you can get a better price. But I can't promise it, as you surely understand.

Yep, ofcourse! No problem.
 
theweightedcompanycube - what transistors do you need?

I've had good luck buying transistors from china in bulk cheap on ebay. You can get exactly the same ones for really cheap
 
theweightedcompanycube - what transistors do you need?

I've had good luck buying transistors from china in bulk cheap on ebay. You can get exactly the same ones for really cheap

Yes, eBay is full of transistors that look like the real deal, but often they are fakes. I've ordered one pair of cheap from China few months ago, looked exactly like the real one, but open it and the die is 1/4 of the real one. In other words, 1/4th of max power.

I think I threw them out, but if I find them, I'll take pics.
 
Yes, eBay is full of transistors that look like the real deal, but often they are fakes. I've ordered one pair of cheap from China few months ago, looked exactly like the real one, but open it and the die is 1/4 of the real one. In other words, 1/4th of max power.

I think I threw them out, but if I find them, I'll take pics.

Ah that sucks dude. I bought a couple for my je-1000 clones and they were exactly what they were supposed to be.
 
Waiting for price...

Dude, are you guys blind, every fourth post, someone is asking for prices, and every fourth post, somebody quotes them. Look harder!

And for the record, there isn't many original GP-1000 that you could get for €350. And none of them are gain/distortion modified, which is required for getting the Alexi sound. Which costs at least €10 in parts and a lot work. And I also made sure that TWCC made a modification so that you could switch between the 87 and 88 model. (capacator switching). Because, either Alexi or Roope used an old 87 version (not the transitional late 87).

And about hte SP-1000, it is impossible to find any unit under €400, and if you even found one, there would be 1000 other guys bidding. Aaaaaand the parts that you need for this, is almost impossible to find nowadays. Many of the caps and the torrid powersource is waaay outdated, and isn't being used anymore at all.
 
Ok, time for some pictures:

33p58u8.jpg

smgcac.jpg

^^ from left:
sp1000 power, sp1000 volume, sp1000 level indicators, switch connecting gp to sp, GP1000 front input, volume, dist (pull), high (pull), mid, midshift, low (pull), master 1, master 2, gp1000 power

23h7rrm.jpg

close-up of the GP-SP switch and GP input

qx5r9v.jpg

close-up of SP power switch and SP volume

2drwepe.jpg

rear, from left: IEC power input, GP fuse (empty), SP fuse (empty), reserved, gp output 2, gp output 1, gp distortion footswitch, sp output, sp output, sp input

w7h20.jpg

inside view, top right white circle will be GP transformer

v33tis.jpg

PCB switch for GP1000 settings

And some notes:
-red labeled switches on last photos have following functions:
-left = gain mod on-off
-top = more gain mod on-off
-bottom two = both left==`87 model, both right==`88 model,
-the big capacitors on SP and GP obviously need some support, glue and straightening. will do
-knobs are black aluminium, diameter 15mm. I have also 12mm, both sizes in black and silver. The indicator on silver is silver too, so you can't see it very well until you color it.
-yes I know some knobs are sticking out more and some less. Will sort it out, no problem (have to reduce length of pot shafts)
-yes, the tube PCB is not secured to chassis. will be. Also, no cooling for tubes now. There will be additional cooling holes.
-knobs on front panel are a bit crowded, I will make the wave indicator smaller and separate them more.
-the wave indicator has only one row, because only a half of sp1000 is inside.
-it is very possible, that I can fit both channels of sp1000 and entire gp1000 in one 1U rack with no thermal issues.
-final cases will be smaller - not 300mm deep, but 200, or so.
-there are two LED indicators on PCB boards - one is on when the high voltage capacitors are discharging (=don't touch indicator), the other one comes slowly on when GP1000 tubes have warmed up to working temperature. if requested, I can move those LEDs to front panel.
-i will probably move both power switches to the right side. I don't like that the left one is very close to SP1000 signal input. No signal issues yet, but just in case.
-yes, there is a childish drawing of pentagram inside. Deal with it. :D
-final cases will be from aluminium. unpainted silver finish with a sticker on front and back will be default, black paint or other color will be few euros extra. dials and texts painted instead of on the sticker will be few euros extra too. fancy anodizing and engraving will be a lot extra (I don't think someone will want it)

fuckng nice :)

but will you engrave letters on it, like mid above the mid knob and gain above gain knob etc + indicators on the back side for what is what?
meaning:
what would engraving the knob texts + back output/controls texts cost? and what are my different options there besides no-cost stickers?

also will you include a manual, which has instructions + the diffirent settings we can use containing alexi's and possible others?
 
Rune, thanks for your reply.
________

Arystar, I've contacted local company that does stickers, direct print-on-steel and engraving too. When I receive the prices, will let you know.

My expectations are around 7-10 EUR for print-on-steel and around 20-30 for engraving.

Best effect would be probably achieved by engraving and then filling the grooves with color.

Best value/quality would be achieved with a laser cut thick foil which would have openings for letters and I would simply spray color through this openings directly on metal.. Foil would be expensive, but very reusable..

About the manual, yes, when everything more important is finished, I will make something useful..
_______

Also, have some late night pornography:
switchedon_800x366_zpsba5f9eeb.jpg

(the color of LEDs is variable, you can choose whatever you want)
(one row only = one half of sp1000 inside)
:D
 
Rune, thanks for your reply.
________

Arystar, I've contacted local company that does stickers, direct print-on-steel and engraving too. When I receive the prices, will let you know.

My expectations are around 7-10 EUR for print-on-steel and around 20-30 for engraving.

Best effect would be probably achieved by engraving and then filling the grooves with color.

Best value/quality would be achieved with a laser cut thick foil which would have openings for letters and I would simply spray color through this openings directly on metal.. Foil would be expensive, but very reusable..

About the manual, yes, when everything more important is finished, I will make something useful..
_______

Also, have some late night pornography:
switchedon_800x366_zpsba5f9eeb.jpg

(the color of LEDs is variable, you can choose whatever you want)
(one row only = one half of sp1000 inside)
:D

My god it looks awesome. And easily transportable too!
If I had the money I'd totally buy that as a backup. I mean thats a whole amp head - I could easily have that and my guitar and transport it in any way imaginable and hook it up to a cab at the gig.

For now tho, I'll go with my original gp-1000 and peavey 50/50

great job!
 
Rune, thanks for your reply.
________

Arystar, I've contacted local company that does stickers, direct print-on-steel and engraving too. When I receive the prices, will let you know.

My expectations are around 7-10 EUR for print-on-steel and around 20-30 for engraving.

Best effect would be probably achieved by engraving and then filling the grooves with color.

Best value/quality would be achieved with a laser cut thick foil which would have openings for letters and I would simply spray color through this openings directly on metal.. Foil would be expensive, but very reusable..

About the manual, yes, when everything more important is finished, I will make something useful..
_______

Also, have some late night pornography:
switchedon_800x366_zpsba5f9eeb.jpg

(the color of LEDs is variable, you can choose whatever you want)
(one row only = one half of sp1000 inside)
:D

on other notice, have you taken rack casings into account with those knobs and controls? it would be shame if knobs wer eto long and the amp didnt fit in a rack casing anymore :S

anyway, hop to see you finish 1 in full quality soon with all the perks and shiny's :p
 
Don't worry about that Arystar :D There is still a enough space between the rack and what it closes it. Just look at the things which are fixed on power amps!

And yeah, pretty nice!
 
Yep, don't worry about the knobs.

I have one more modification to discuss:

For now, the GP1000 looks like this
diagram_zps70b704b5.png


The second input (INPUT REAR) is an option, same thing as FX loop connection.

However, RR480 had a suggestion.. If you play with distortion, output tone is very strong. If you switch back to clean, the volume is much lower (because you left out one tube). Also, if you play distorted with VOLUME knob on max, it will distort a bit even on clean channel. So to achieve clean tone, you have to lower volume even more.

Therefore: would you like to have two separate VOLUME knobs, one VOLUME CLEAN, one VOLUME DISTORTED? This would allow you to set GP1000 for clean and distorted tone and switch between them easily with a footswtich.

Also, to make the output signal on clean channel stronger, you would have to turn MASTER knob a bit higher. There are two solutions for this: Get rid of one MASTER OUTPUT, and use MASTER1 knob as MASTER CLEAN, plus MASTER2 knob as MASTER DISTORTED. Second solutions is adding two knobs (not getting rid of one output channel).

Overall effect of this would be ability to switch between clean and distorted channel easily, while maintaining same output signal level.

Any thoughts?

(If I did not express myself clear, let me know, will write similar diagram with signal level strength indicators to make things clear)
 
Yep, don't worry about the knobs.

I have one more modification to discuss:

For now, the GP1000 looks like this
diagram_zps70b704b5.png


The second input (INPUT REAR) is an option, same thing as FX loop connection.

However, RR480 had a suggestion.. If you play with distortion, output tone is very strong. If you switch back to clean, the volume is much lower (because you left out one tube). Also, if you play distorted with VOLUME knob on max, it will distort a bit even on clean channel. So to achieve clean tone, you have to lower volume even more.

Therefore: would you like to have two separate VOLUME knobs, one VOLUME CLEAN, one VOLUME DISTORTED? This would allow you to set GP1000 for clean and distorted tone and switch between them easily with a footswtich.

Also, to make the output signal on clean channel stronger, you would have to turn MASTER knob a bit higher. There are two solutions for this: Get rid of one MASTER OUTPUT, and use MASTER1 knob as MASTER CLEAN, plus MASTER2 knob as MASTER DISTORTED. Second solutions is adding two knobs (not getting rid of one output channel).

Overall effect of this would be ability to switch between clean and distorted channel easily, while maintaining same output signal level.

Any thoughts?

(If I did not express myself clear, let me know, will write similar diagram with signal level strength indicators to make things clear)

what is the use of the FX send and return in the picture?

as for the clean stuff... the original GP didnt have it so i guess that we should keep stuff the way the original had it, besides the alexi mod ofc :p
 
FX loop is for adding various effects pedals etc "inside" of the signal path, not behind the GP1000. I am no expert on this, but professionals probably like, that after applying the effect on signal it still goes through last tube.

Rune requested it on first or second page of this topic, if I remember correctly.

BTW, another modification came to mind - I was told, that pro musicians used to have three GP's (or other preamps) on the stage - one for clean, one for distorted and one special for soloing. Each of those with different settings. And switchable via pedals or so.

If requested, it is possible to double or triple the GP without using independent units.. I would simply add another row of knobs (or two rows), and series of relays would switch between three presets. Expected cost for +1 row is around 80 EUR, +2 rows 150 EUR. If you are feeling extremely fancy, it is even possible to use digital control of the pots and have 100 presets.. controllable by special pedal or MIDI or whatever.. But the cost would be much higher, of course.

..by the way, this modification is possible for any preamp/effect/amp.. if anyone needed modding, you can contact me.
 
FX loop is for adding various effects pedals etc "inside" of the signal path, not behind the GP1000. I am no expert on this, but professionals probably like, that after applying the effect on signal it still goes through last tube.

Rune requested it on first or second page of this topic, if I remember correctly.

BTW, another modification came to mind - I was told, that pro musicians used to have three GP's (or other preamps) on the stage - one for clean, one for distorted and one special for soloing. Each of those with different settings. And switchable via pedals or so.

If requested, it is possible to double or triple the GP without using independent units.. I would simply add another row of knobs (or two rows), and series of relays would switch between three presets. Expected cost for +1 row is around 80 EUR, +2 rows 150 EUR. If you are feeling extremely fancy, it is even possible to use digital control of the pots and have 100 presets.. controllable by special pedal or MIDI or whatever.. But the cost would be much higher, of course.

..by the way, this modification is possible for any preamp/effect/amp.. if anyone needed modding, you can contact me.

I think that more channels is overkill, it loses the simplicity, but all the other stuff like the fx loop and seperated channels are really cool
 
I think I will be interested in separate 1U GP-1000 and 1U SP-1000, simply because I like the idea of two units! I'll PM further on.

Quick question, will I have to go terribly loud to get a good sound of it?
 
I think I will be interested in separate 1U GP-1000 and 1U SP-1000, simply because I like the idea of two units! I'll PM further on.

Quick question, will I have to go terribly loud to get a good sound of it?

no problem, I'll wait for your PM.

You don't have to go very loud on GP1000 to get the GP sound. We have found, that with SP1000+cab (Marshall JCM 900 (1936) with 2x Celestion G12T-75) it is good to go a bit louder than room level to make the speaker perform best.

Currently we are trying to figure out, which part has of the setup needs more power to behave as it should. My guess is the cab with Celestions, because I've just wired the SP1000 to speaker wires inside H&K combo and the sound does not lack anything.

I am also modifying the SP1000 and GP1000 PCBs, to make as small as possible versions. Will get back to you all when I have the final design.

Aaaand yes, I know, I've promised more videos and recordings - but we can't get our hands on better recording equipment at the momens, so we are looking for some recording gear.