LEE JACKSON GP-1000 88 replica for sale

Guitar is mono (=1 channel), gp1000 is mono (don't get confused by two outputs, they differ only in some bass characteristics).. and you can connect two speaker boxes to one half (=mono) of sp1000. No need for full stereo version.

If anyone wants full sp1000, no problem. In reality, it is just two similar units in one enclosure.
 
Guitar is mono (=1 channel), gp1000 is mono (don't get confused by two outputs, they differ only in some bass characteristics).. and you can connect two speaker boxes to one half (=mono) of sp1000. No need for full stereo version.

If anyone wants full sp1000, no problem. In reality, it is just two similar units in one enclosure.

that didnt answer the most important question :p

what are the chances of overheating?
 
Crap, sorry. No, I haven't seen any problems with overheating, even on high volumes. It is just nice to have some backup in case someone throws the unit into a full rack with bad or no airflow during 30-40°C day and decides to go full power.

I am thinking about three to five fan/temp levels - off-lowspeed-highspeed-overload(lowers output volume a bit)-shutdown. All automatic, with some kind of LED indicator on front panel. green-low, yellow-high, red-overload, blue-safety shutdown
 
Crap, sorry. No, I haven't seen any problems with overheating, even on high volumes. It is just nice to have some backup in case someone throws the unit into a full rack with bad or no airflow during 30-40°C day and decides to go full power.

I am thinking about three to five fan/temp levels - off-lowspeed-highspeed-overload(lowers output volume a bit)-shutdown. All automatic, with some kind of LED indicator on front panel. green-low, yellow-high, red-overload, blue-safety shutdown

also would u advise taking a 2 in 1? wouldnt that cause colling problems or wouldnt it get warmer then 2 seperate ones? and since i would have to get a rack case anyways what would 2 matter?
 
Guys,

that soundcard is a crap, but I think you can hear LJ over there:). Recorded through GP-1000 + Rocktron Intellifex LTD + SP-1000 + Marshall JCM 900 (1936) with 2x Celestion G12T-75.
GP settings - Laiho.
Rocktron settings - 159 HUSH, in the "solo" there was used some preset with reverb and delay - imho, sounds pretty good:)
SP settings - loud as fuck.

....+ some tuning problems, because of cracked E string. I've had to put on a new one right before recording...
https://soundcloud.com/rr480-1/whatever
 
Sorry I haven't been responding to the last email regarding photos of the GP-1000. Have been really busy with the christening/baptism of my daugher, and I just recently recovered from flu.
Sound just like Lee Jackson setup. Great work. But there is some insane feedback in the first riffs :p Should turn up the HUSH. Otherwise, great clips and well done with the assembly of the SP-1000 (as well as the GP-1000).
I have to consider taking a double version GP-1000+SP-1000, but If I cannot afford it I'll just have a small box GP-1000, depends on the prices.
I'll do a compelte photo/measuring round on the GP-1000 if you guys still want that, just give me feedback on that either here or at my mail address.
 
Hey Rune,

good to hear from you again :) I was thinking you had some work or health issues.

I am a bit sad with the soundcard recording.. it really does not reproduce the true sound of the setup. I am in a process of completing PCB for version 2 of GP1000 - all pots on board, simple switch for turning on/off the gain mod on 1st stage, another switch for a bit more gain, 2nd PCB for tubes (to make it sturdier) and a bleeding resistor plus LED indicator on high voltage part of the circuit to make sure you can touch anything after disconnecting the mains power. (With this the do-not-touch time is around 60 seconds. Without it the preamp will kick you even after 3-4 days.)

Also found out, that the SP1000 runs very fine even without the fan - we had it on full power for good 20 minutes and the heatsink got up to 30 degrees or so.. nothing significant.

I am writing you an email, should arrive in a minute..
 
Oh, Rune, great to hear from you, man! I'm glad you got well:)
Your message makes me fucking happy!:D
About the feedback, I was sitting approx. 1 meter from the box with full volume, so that's why:D...I'm not sure about the Intellifex - HUSH settings... if you could describe yours, that would be great:) (Btw Blackface is on the way!)
Of course, we would be grateful for mentioned photos/measuring. I'm sure that TWCC will contact you via email tomorrow. Also you could send him the info about hush (he'll pass me that stuff).
 
According to my calculations, it should be around 340-360 EUR for GP1000 (including. tubes) and 300-320 EUR for one channel SP1000. When combined together into one rack, 620-650 EUR.

The prices for half rack or cheap non-rack enclosure will be lower, but not more than 20-25 EUR down.

I am trying to shave costs wherever possible, maybe it will go a bit lower, but can't promise that.
 
According to my calculations, it should be around 340-360 EUR for GP1000 (including. tubes) and 300-320 EUR for one channel SP1000. When combined together into one rack, 620-650 EUR.

The prices for half rack or cheap non-rack enclosure will be lower, but not more than 20-25 EUR down.

I am trying to shave costs wherever possible, maybe it will go a bit lower, but can't promise that.

on the SP/GP combo is there an option to let the SP remain off and use the GP as a pedal? meaning Guitar -> gp-1000 -> effects loop amp/clean channel?
 
Yes, both GP and SP are independent, have separate audio connectors and power switches. There is only a small switch to connect output from GP directly to SP input.

If you want to use enhancer/whatever, you simply get the output from GP on the back of the rack.
 
Yes, both GP and SP are independent, have separate audio connectors and power switches. There is only a small switch to connect output from GP directly to SP input.

If you want to use enhancer/whatever, you simply get the output from GP on the back of the rack.

uhu, which reminds me, i think you should also add a little instruction manual :p some peeps arent that familiar with electronics...me for example :p
 
RR480

Whenever you are using volunmes beyond bedroom level, you should use some kind of noise reduction or gate.
I tend to set the hush threshold to -20db and 200-250ms release rate on the intellifex.
But I have never used the sp-1000 on more than 11'o clock, because it is one loud amplifier. A lot louder than all my other poweramps or my new Peavey 5150II.

intellifex ltd and blackface are the same unit except a tad higher processor value on the LTD.
the USA online version, have different presets, but it is the same thing.
XL have longer delays, better pitch values and EQ.

So if you can't get the XL one they are all the same.

What Alexi settings did you use?
interview settings: all maxed out (forum gear settings)
AYDY rack pictures
Reap and roll settings
Alexi documentary settings.

or different?

They do differ a lot in overall sound.
AYDY and beyond is basically the legendary Stone settings except roope uses the mid shuft at 5 instead of 3. Older is more mid and volume heavey.
 
thanks for the info about hush:)
maybe, it is possible that in the first riff was LTD bypassed...not sure, TWCC was operating SP and LTD:p

pre-amp - http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a389/DerMeister123/alexirig.jpg
Vol - Max, Dist - Max, High - pulled max, Mid -max, Mid shift 3,
bass pulled 8 o'clock, Master2 - 9 or a bit less o'clock (our potentiometers start at 6 o'clock)

Do you use some other settings?
 
Try these two:
Vol:Max, Dist:Max (pulled), High:Max (Not pulled), Mid:10-11 o'clock, midshift: 3, bass:9 o'clock (not pulled) Master 2 (and 1 on Tuska2003):9-10 o'clock. <- Reap and roll/tuska2003 setting.

Vol: Max, Dist:Max (pulled), High:Max (not pulled), Mid: 1-2 o'clock, Midshift: 3, Bass:1-2 o'clock. Master 1: 11-12 o'clock, Master 2: 1 o'clock <-Alexi documentary/Hate Me single/Hellion recording session.
 
dead?

still waiting for mor info + a price drop since...350 for a replica..i mean for 50 bucks more I got vintage lol :p 650 for the combo is alot too..
RR480 uploads some more sound using Rune's setting :)

I think Rune should actually be testing these things since he seems to know alot about it and he could give you a great review :)
this could become a top thread if u actually manage to get them built perfectly....and maybe a little bit cheaper :p
 
Well well well.

Patience, young padawan. I simply don't have enough time to make daily updates.

The thing about the cost is, that with ~350 EUR for GP I am cutting it really close to the bone. If I had to take into account the amount of manhours that go into completion of one GP or SP, the prices would be more like 600, maybe more. (LJ wanted 600 USD for new version of his GP, and was probably thinking about 100+ sale units)

But of course, no one would buy them for 600, so I've looked for better deals on parts, cut my profit to practically zero, just covering (some part of) expenses. ~350 is right on the limit. Maybe (really, only maybe) I could get down to ~300 if more people wanted it (at least 5+, better 10+), but that's a long way to go from this day. We did not present any meaningful videos and recordings of new prototype, you don't have a review from Rune yet, so the actual sales are irrelevant for now.

I'll upload a picture and some text about actual progress in an hour or so, combo unit is practically finished.

//edit: Also, MaximHateCrew, the cost of SP1000 depends mostly on transistors, it is fckin hard to even buy them. If I can find a good deal, you can get a better price. But I can't promise it, as you surely understand.
 
Ok, time for some pictures:

33p58u8.jpg

smgcac.jpg

^^ from left:
sp1000 power, sp1000 volume, sp1000 level indicators, switch connecting gp to sp, GP1000 front input, volume, dist (pull), high (pull), mid, midshift, low (pull), master 1, master 2, gp1000 power

23h7rrm.jpg

close-up of the GP-SP switch and GP input

qx5r9v.jpg

close-up of SP power switch and SP volume

2drwepe.jpg

rear, from left: IEC power input, GP fuse (empty), SP fuse (empty), reserved, gp output 2, gp output 1, gp distortion footswitch, sp output, sp output, sp input

w7h20.jpg

inside view, top right white circle will be GP transformer

v33tis.jpg

PCB switch for GP1000 settings

And some notes:
-red labeled switches on last photos have following functions:
-left = gain mod on-off
-top = more gain mod on-off
-bottom two = both left==`87 model, both right==`88 model,
-the big capacitors on SP and GP obviously need some support, glue and straightening. will do
-knobs are black aluminium, diameter 15mm. I have also 12mm, both sizes in black and silver. The indicator on silver is silver too, so you can't see it very well until you color it.
-yes I know some knobs are sticking out more and some less. Will sort it out, no problem (have to reduce length of pot shafts)
-yes, the tube PCB is not secured to chassis. will be. Also, no cooling for tubes now. There will be additional cooling holes.
-knobs on front panel are a bit crowded, I will make the wave indicator smaller and separate them more.
-the wave indicator has only one row, because only a half of sp1000 is inside.
-it is very possible, that I can fit both channels of sp1000 and entire gp1000 in one 1U rack with no thermal issues.
-final cases will be smaller - not 300mm deep, but 200, or so.
-there are two LED indicators on PCB boards - one is on when the high voltage capacitors are discharging (=don't touch indicator), the other one comes slowly on when GP1000 tubes have warmed up to working temperature. if requested, I can move those LEDs to front panel.
-i will probably move both power switches to the right side. I don't like that the left one is very close to SP1000 signal input. No signal issues yet, but just in case.
-yes, there is a childish drawing of pentagram inside. Deal with it. :D
-final cases will be from aluminium. unpainted silver finish with a sticker on front and back will be default, black paint or other color will be few euros extra. dials and texts painted instead of on the sticker will be few euros extra too. fancy anodizing and engraving will be a lot extra (I don't think someone will want it)