Line666
Fendurr
- Sep 2, 2006
- 3,342
- 1
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Dude it's not the first time someones accidentally insulted his wife even
Jason does keep taking really sinister shots of her though...
The photography thread
- Thread starter kramer1309
- Start date
Dude it's not the first time someones accidentally insulted his wife even
Jason does keep taking really sinister shots of her though...
Joematthews
Member
- Dec 15, 2007
- 1,547
- 0
- 36
A recent one from my trip to London.
If I were to critique Jason's photo I'd say the vignette is fine, but what really defines the picture is the blacked out eyes and ultra harsh lighting of the face. For daylight portraits fill in flash is often a very good idea to avoid this.
arv_foh
Brian K
Man you lucked out, that sky is sick. Half of getting amazing shots is being at the right place at the right time
Joematthews
Member
- Dec 15, 2007
- 1,547
- 0
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So true! It was cloudy all day, didn't get many good shots till the very last hour or 2 of light when the sky went mad. I'm glad I decided to head to the waterfront at that time instead of staying in covent garden haha
So, i'm considering an entry level dslr. I'm a little worried about how soon one outgrows their first body.
Exploring my options:
I see I have in the ~400$ range, a Canon EOS 1000D, Nikon D3000 and a Sony A290, of which, technically, the sony seems a little better of; supporting ISO to one step higher than the other two as well as in body stabilization. But it doesn't have video capture or live view. Video i should be able to live without. Live view, don't know how essential that is at the end. I mean, is using ONLY the viewfinder going to be limiting in any sense?
In a higher range ~600$, I could get a Canon EOS 1100D or a Nikon D3100. But I'd be reluctant to shell out that much just yet.
Last option would be to wait for a couple of years and buy a EOS550D which I doubt i'll grow out of for quite a long while.
I think i'm leaning towards getting the sony, hopefully second hand, learn my way around using a DSLR, not invest tooo much in lenses et all and then go for the 550D or equivalent after 4-5 years and then stick to it and then consider lenses and such sorts?
I know some of you guys (arv, grywolf..) really know your way around these things, so any opinions on above thoughts?
Thanks!
Exploring my options:
I see I have in the ~400$ range, a Canon EOS 1000D, Nikon D3000 and a Sony A290, of which, technically, the sony seems a little better of; supporting ISO to one step higher than the other two as well as in body stabilization. But it doesn't have video capture or live view. Video i should be able to live without. Live view, don't know how essential that is at the end. I mean, is using ONLY the viewfinder going to be limiting in any sense?
In a higher range ~600$, I could get a Canon EOS 1100D or a Nikon D3100. But I'd be reluctant to shell out that much just yet.
Last option would be to wait for a couple of years and buy a EOS550D which I doubt i'll grow out of for quite a long while.
I think i'm leaning towards getting the sony, hopefully second hand, learn my way around using a DSLR, not invest tooo much in lenses et all and then go for the 550D or equivalent after 4-5 years and then stick to it and then consider lenses and such sorts?
I know some of you guys (arv, grywolf..) really know your way around these things, so any opinions on above thoughts?
Thanks!
Joematthews
Member
- Dec 15, 2007
- 1,547
- 0
- 36
I've tried both the nikon d3000 and the canon eos1000d (which I own). I chose the canon purely because I preferred the control/screen layout and operation. I'd try them out at a shop, ignore the sales guy, see which camera you like the feel of, which is fastest to adjust very basic setting, which has the most accurate autofocus and which has the best image quality. Don't worry about technical stuff, just the very basics of what makes the camera nice and easy to use. You can't go far wrong with any nikon or canon entry level slr.
In terms of outgrowing the camera, I've had mine for a year and I don't feel the slightest inclination to upgrade, you'll reach a point where the camera feels right and you know every single control inside out so you probably won't want to bother for a long time.
In terms of outgrowing the camera, I've had mine for a year and I don't feel the slightest inclination to upgrade, you'll reach a point where the camera feels right and you know every single control inside out so you probably won't want to bother for a long time.
arv_foh
Brian K
Buy the brand that you are going to want to stick with. It seems counterproductive to me to buy a different brand because it's cheaper, or whatever reason is enticing you. You can start buying lenses for whatever you end up buying and they will be be able to be used with your current camera and when you upgrade as well, you're not going to go 4-5 years without buying any lenses, trust me 
Canon T3i is pretty nice, entry/mid level DSLR, or even the T2i if you want to save a few hundred and buy used.
I have never used live view, ever, on any of my cameras. I'd say I grew out of my first camera after about 4 years. Pretty much when I started shooting weddings and the low light situations made it beneficial for me to make the jump to a full frame body. Camera bodies don't hold their resale value nearly as well as lenses.
I'd buy Canon over Nikon, they are both good cameras, I just find Canon to have better "out of the camera" quality than my Nikon. Shoot more, edit less
Canon T3i is pretty nice, entry/mid level DSLR, or even the T2i if you want to save a few hundred and buy used.I have never used live view, ever, on any of my cameras. I'd say I grew out of my first camera after about 4 years. Pretty much when I started shooting weddings and the low light situations made it beneficial for me to make the jump to a full frame body. Camera bodies don't hold their resale value nearly as well as lenses.
I'd buy Canon over Nikon, they are both good cameras, I just find Canon to have better "out of the camera" quality than my Nikon. Shoot more, edit less
arv_foh
Brian K
grywolf627
Member
Buy the brand that you are going to want to stick with. It seems counterproductive to me to buy a different brand because it's cheaper, or whatever reason is enticing you. You can start buying lenses for whatever you end up buying and they will be be able to be used with your current camera and when you upgrade as well, you're not going to go 4-5 years without buying any lenses, trust me
I have never used live view, ever, on any of my cameras. I'd say I grew out of my first camera after about 4 years. Pretty much when I started shooting weddings and the low light situations made it beneficial for me to make the jump to a full frame body. Camera bodies don't hold their resale value nearly as well as lenses.
I'd buy Canon over Nikon, they are both good cameras, I just find Canon to have better "out of the camera" quality than my Nikon. Shoot more, edit less
Very, VERY sound advice.
And Brian, you never shoot with live view? Almost any time my camera is on a tripod...especially for still life type of shots...I'll shoot with live view. I love being able to zoom in on a tiny part to manually get the focus perfect. But the quality of your shots speak for themselves. **Edit: and like Brian said...get the idea out of your head that you won't buy many lenses. You may start with that intention...but the photography "bug" has a way of biting you....and your wallet.
**Edit2:
For me, I don't plan on upgrading the body (450D) any time soon. It's a little outdated maybe, but I love it. It's more than good enough for most things I want to shoot. For Brian, or other people that go pro...a full frame sensor could be more beneficial. But for me, that comes with a trade off I'm not willing to make right now. Sure, I'll have better low light performance, and the bottom end of the focal range of my lens will be the true focal range (an 18mm lens is really an 18mms lens)...but I'll lose that extra perceived "zoom" on the top side of the focal range. My 250mm lens will really be a 250mm lens, instead of the perceived 400mm lens caused by the 1.6 crop factor of the smaller sensor. And I'd rather pay for a 12mm wide angle, like Joe's Tokina (this will put me at approx. 18mm), instead of forking out the cash for a 400mm lens. It's all about priorities.
grywolf627
Member
I just had a thought. Not too long ago, I wrote a basic tutorial on exposure principles for a friend of mine just getting seriously interested in photography. She was like me...taking pictures for a long time, but only really using the "scene" preset modes with no real understanding of what goes into exposure...and how you can play with this to get the desired effect. I know a lot of people in this thread don't need such a thing, and I wrote it kind of quickly (so there may be some errors or it isn't well thought out), but would anyone be interested in this? I can post it here if someone may find it useful.
StefTD
Member
Imho, stuff like this is always interesting and helps alot, even if it's stuff you already know.
grywolf627
Member
Okay, I'll post it in just a minute. I hope someone can get some use from it. If the formatting is off and weird, I'll be too lazy to fix it. Just an advanced warning.
grywolf627
Member
Ok...so here it is. I make no claim to be an expert on the subject. This is just based on what I've learned from reading and my own experience. If anyone sees errors or disagrees with anything, speak up! I wrote this quickly. Again, this is a basic guide for those that know little or nothing about basic exposure concepts. Of course there are exceptions to everything. Sorry if my explanations aren't as clear as I think they are.
The key to a good picture is proper "exposure", how well lit the picture is. Of course, the lighting is controlled by factors such as light sources and shadows, but inside the camera there are three things which will control the exposure:
Shutter speed
Aperture size
ISO sensitivity
The first two control how much light will strike the image sensor, and ISO determines how sensitive the sensor is (think of it like the different film "speeds" back in film photography...ASA 100, 200, 400, etc.).
All three of these interact with each other. Think of it like a basic algebra problem:
x= proper exposure - this is a constant, it never changes
a= shutter speed
b= aperture size
c= ISO
So, x = a + b + c. Okay...there really isn't any kind of addition going on. BUT, there is a relationship between everything. If you change one value (a, b, or c), you MUST change at least one of the other values to compensate...if not both values. To further illustrate, I'll just use some random numbers. If:
10 = 5 + 2 + 3
If I change 5 to 6, then I MUST change one or both of the other values to maintain the outcome of 10:
10 = 6 + 2 + 2
or
10 = 6 + 1 + 3
See? It's about relationships, and how they all interact with each other.
You will have different "exposure modes" on your camera (not including the auto or "scene" modes):
**Aperture priority - You set the aperture (and ISO), and the camera will determine the shutter speed for correct exposure.
**Shutter priority - You set the shutter speed (and ISO), and the camera will determine the aperture for correct exposure.
**Manual - you set aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Correct exposure is up to you to figure out.
Each has uses and advantages. You will probably find that aperture priority will be the most useful in most situations. This is why most photographers, even the pros, use this most of the time. This is because the aperture size controls the "depth of field", and this is something you usually will want control of (I'll discus "depth of field" in the next section). But there will be times when it won't give you the results you need, and you will need to pick another mode...depending on what you're trying to achieve.
Now, to explain what aperture, shutter speed, and ISO does:
** Shutter speed - controls how fast the shutter stays open. A longer shutter speed will let more light in, making a brighter picture. But for a picture of a moving object, a faster shutter speed will be needed to freeze the object. A faster speed will let LESS light in, making a darker picture.
** Aperture size - the aperture is the opening that lets the light in. The values used for this are a little confusing. It is expressed in "f-stops". A smaller f-stop value means a larger opening, and a larger f-stop value means a smaller opening. So, an f-stop value of f/ 2.8 is a very large opening...letting in a lot of light. A value of f/ 16 is a very small opening, letting in much less light.
** ISO - as stated above, the ISO is the sensitivity of the image sensor. A lower number means it is less sensitive, and requires more light to strike the sensor for the image to be bright.
What are the uses of these settings? I'm glad you asked.
** Shutter speed - you can use this to either freeze a moving object...using a fast speed. Or, you can show movement of an object by using a longer speed...and letting the image blur as it moves. Also, you can use a LONG shutter speed on a non-moving object to let in much more light. Such as...taking a picture of a landscape...at night. You will need a very long shutter speed to let in enough light.
** Aperture - besides controlling the amount of light, it also controls the "depth of field". That is...how much of the image is in focus...from the front of the image to the background of the image. If you use a very large opening (like f/ 2.8) only a very small portion of the image will be in focus...the area you choose. The rest of the image will start to blur, very softly. This is used in macro or close-up photography, but also used a lot in portraits...where you WANT the background to blur, so it won't distract you from the main subject.
Just the oppposite...using a small opening (such as f/ 16) will make most of the image in focus, not just the main subject. VERY useful for landscape photography, where you want the WHOLE image in focus...not just some little part of it.
** ISO - you're thinking...if a higher number means the sensor is more sensitive...then I'll just use a high setting...right? WRONG. The higher the number is, the more noise or "grain" will be generated in the image. In general, TRY to use ISO 100 when possible. It will provide the cleanest image. However, sometimes it just isn't possible to use ISO 100, because you just don't have enough light.
So, now for some examples, to maybe make this make a little more sense:
Example 1 - Outdoor portrait, aperture priority:
I want to take a picture of you outdoors, where it is very bright. I want you to be in focus, but I want the bacground to blur and be soft. So, maybe I'll use an aperture of f/ 2.8. I'll leave my ISO at 100. Since it's very bright outside, this will be probably be fine. In bright sunlight, shooting at ISO 100 and f/ 2.8...I'll probably have a very fast shutter speed. Since you will be standing still, this isn't important. But, if you were moving, this would be a nice benefit.
Example 2 - Nature landscape, aperture priority:
I want to take a picture of the pretty landscape. It's a bright, sunny day. I'll leave my ISO at 100 to start with. Since I want the entire image in focus, I'll use an aperture of maybe f/ 16. This will probably give me an acceptable shutter speed, enough to hand hold the shot. If not, I will either need to put the camera on a tripod...or increase the ISO, which in turn will make the shutter speed faster. Sense I'm increasing the sensitivity to light, the shutter speed will get faster to compensate for the extra brightness.
Example 3 - Action photograph, aperture priority:
I want to take a picture of my child, while he's running, in bright light. But, I also want to control the depth of field for a more pleasing image. I'll use an aperture of f/ 2.8...a large size, letting in a lot of light...but also nicely blurring the background. But since he is moving, I need a fast shutter speed. At ISO 100, I may not have a fast enough shutter speed to "freeze" the action. So, if I start bumping up the ISO...maybe to ISO 400...or even ISO 800...I'll get a VERY fast shutter speed to compensate for all that extra brightness. If the depth of field isn't important to you, you could set your ISO somewhere in the middle, maybe ISO 400, and use Shutter priority. Then you can set exactly the shutter speed you want...maybe 1/1000 sec. And the camera will determine the proper aperture setting. (but, it may not look the way you want...so just be aware)
Example 4 - Night time landscape of the city:
You can try aperture priority on this, but you may have to switch to manual and just try a few settings until you get it right. But try aperture priority first. The same as the above landscape...I want everything in focus. So, an aperture of f/ 16. But this is a low-light shot...I want the ISO to be very low, so I will not see noise in the image. So, I'll use ISO 100. Because of the small aperture and low ISO, I will need a LONG shutter speed. Maybe 30 seconds....maybe more. This is why you might have to switch to manual mode...to get longer than 30 seconds. A TRIPOD IS REQUIRED FOR THIS SHOT.
A last thought: if your camera lens doesn't have "image stabilization", you will have a hard time taking hand-held shots at shutter speeds slower than 1/60 second. You may be able to, depending on how steady you are. If it does have "IS", you can MAYBE use slower speeds...maybe down to 1/20 sec. This all varies from person to person. If your subject is moving, you will need to use a faster shutter speed (maybe 1/100 sec) and possibly a flash. Image stabilization won't help you with this.
Flash photography gets a little more complicated, and some of these rules don't apply in the exact same way. Get comfortable with this before attempting any serious flash photography. Walk before you run.
Exposure Essentials 101
The key to a good picture is proper "exposure", how well lit the picture is. Of course, the lighting is controlled by factors such as light sources and shadows, but inside the camera there are three things which will control the exposure:
Shutter speed
Aperture size
ISO sensitivity
The first two control how much light will strike the image sensor, and ISO determines how sensitive the sensor is (think of it like the different film "speeds" back in film photography...ASA 100, 200, 400, etc.).
All three of these interact with each other. Think of it like a basic algebra problem:
x= proper exposure - this is a constant, it never changes
a= shutter speed
b= aperture size
c= ISO
So, x = a + b + c. Okay...there really isn't any kind of addition going on. BUT, there is a relationship between everything. If you change one value (a, b, or c), you MUST change at least one of the other values to compensate...if not both values. To further illustrate, I'll just use some random numbers. If:
10 = 5 + 2 + 3
If I change 5 to 6, then I MUST change one or both of the other values to maintain the outcome of 10:
10 = 6 + 2 + 2
or
10 = 6 + 1 + 3
See? It's about relationships, and how they all interact with each other.
You will have different "exposure modes" on your camera (not including the auto or "scene" modes):
**Aperture priority - You set the aperture (and ISO), and the camera will determine the shutter speed for correct exposure.
**Shutter priority - You set the shutter speed (and ISO), and the camera will determine the aperture for correct exposure.
**Manual - you set aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Correct exposure is up to you to figure out.
Each has uses and advantages. You will probably find that aperture priority will be the most useful in most situations. This is why most photographers, even the pros, use this most of the time. This is because the aperture size controls the "depth of field", and this is something you usually will want control of (I'll discus "depth of field" in the next section). But there will be times when it won't give you the results you need, and you will need to pick another mode...depending on what you're trying to achieve.
Now, to explain what aperture, shutter speed, and ISO does:
** Shutter speed - controls how fast the shutter stays open. A longer shutter speed will let more light in, making a brighter picture. But for a picture of a moving object, a faster shutter speed will be needed to freeze the object. A faster speed will let LESS light in, making a darker picture.
** Aperture size - the aperture is the opening that lets the light in. The values used for this are a little confusing. It is expressed in "f-stops". A smaller f-stop value means a larger opening, and a larger f-stop value means a smaller opening. So, an f-stop value of f/ 2.8 is a very large opening...letting in a lot of light. A value of f/ 16 is a very small opening, letting in much less light.
** ISO - as stated above, the ISO is the sensitivity of the image sensor. A lower number means it is less sensitive, and requires more light to strike the sensor for the image to be bright.
What are the uses of these settings? I'm glad you asked.
** Shutter speed - you can use this to either freeze a moving object...using a fast speed. Or, you can show movement of an object by using a longer speed...and letting the image blur as it moves. Also, you can use a LONG shutter speed on a non-moving object to let in much more light. Such as...taking a picture of a landscape...at night. You will need a very long shutter speed to let in enough light.
** Aperture - besides controlling the amount of light, it also controls the "depth of field". That is...how much of the image is in focus...from the front of the image to the background of the image. If you use a very large opening (like f/ 2.8) only a very small portion of the image will be in focus...the area you choose. The rest of the image will start to blur, very softly. This is used in macro or close-up photography, but also used a lot in portraits...where you WANT the background to blur, so it won't distract you from the main subject.
Just the oppposite...using a small opening (such as f/ 16) will make most of the image in focus, not just the main subject. VERY useful for landscape photography, where you want the WHOLE image in focus...not just some little part of it.
** ISO - you're thinking...if a higher number means the sensor is more sensitive...then I'll just use a high setting...right? WRONG.
The higher the number is, the more noise or "grain" will be generated in the image. In general, TRY to use ISO 100 when possible. It will provide the cleanest image. However, sometimes it just isn't possible to use ISO 100, because you just don't have enough light.So, now for some examples, to maybe make this make a little more sense:
Example 1 - Outdoor portrait, aperture priority:
I want to take a picture of you outdoors, where it is very bright. I want you to be in focus, but I want the bacground to blur and be soft. So, maybe I'll use an aperture of f/ 2.8. I'll leave my ISO at 100. Since it's very bright outside, this will be probably be fine. In bright sunlight, shooting at ISO 100 and f/ 2.8...I'll probably have a very fast shutter speed. Since you will be standing still, this isn't important. But, if you were moving, this would be a nice benefit.
Example 2 - Nature landscape, aperture priority:
I want to take a picture of the pretty landscape. It's a bright, sunny day. I'll leave my ISO at 100 to start with. Since I want the entire image in focus, I'll use an aperture of maybe f/ 16. This will probably give me an acceptable shutter speed, enough to hand hold the shot. If not, I will either need to put the camera on a tripod...or increase the ISO, which in turn will make the shutter speed faster. Sense I'm increasing the sensitivity to light, the shutter speed will get faster to compensate for the extra brightness.
Example 3 - Action photograph, aperture priority:
I want to take a picture of my child, while he's running, in bright light. But, I also want to control the depth of field for a more pleasing image. I'll use an aperture of f/ 2.8...a large size, letting in a lot of light...but also nicely blurring the background. But since he is moving, I need a fast shutter speed. At ISO 100, I may not have a fast enough shutter speed to "freeze" the action. So, if I start bumping up the ISO...maybe to ISO 400...or even ISO 800...I'll get a VERY fast shutter speed to compensate for all that extra brightness. If the depth of field isn't important to you, you could set your ISO somewhere in the middle, maybe ISO 400, and use Shutter priority. Then you can set exactly the shutter speed you want...maybe 1/1000 sec. And the camera will determine the proper aperture setting. (but, it may not look the way you want...so just be aware)
Example 4 - Night time landscape of the city:
You can try aperture priority on this, but you may have to switch to manual and just try a few settings until you get it right. But try aperture priority first. The same as the above landscape...I want everything in focus. So, an aperture of f/ 16. But this is a low-light shot...I want the ISO to be very low, so I will not see noise in the image. So, I'll use ISO 100. Because of the small aperture and low ISO, I will need a LONG shutter speed. Maybe 30 seconds....maybe more. This is why you might have to switch to manual mode...to get longer than 30 seconds. A TRIPOD IS REQUIRED FOR THIS SHOT.
A last thought: if your camera lens doesn't have "image stabilization", you will have a hard time taking hand-held shots at shutter speeds slower than 1/60 second. You may be able to, depending on how steady you are. If it does have "IS", you can MAYBE use slower speeds...maybe down to 1/20 sec. This all varies from person to person. If your subject is moving, you will need to use a faster shutter speed (maybe 1/100 sec) and possibly a flash. Image stabilization won't help you with this.
Flash photography gets a little more complicated, and some of these rules don't apply in the exact same way. Get comfortable with this before attempting any serious flash photography. Walk before you run.
Ok...so here it is. I make no claim to be an expert on the subject. This is just based on what I've learned from reading and my own experience. If anyone sees errors or disagrees with anything, speak up! I wrote this quickly. Again, this is a basic guide for those that know little or nothing about basic exposure concepts. Of course there are exceptions to everything. Sorry if my explanations aren't as clear as I think they are.
Exposure Essentials 101
The key to a good picture is proper "exposure", how well lit the picture is. Of course, the lighting is controlled by factors such as light sources and shadows, but inside the camera there are three things which will control the exposure:
Shutter speed
Aperture size
ISO sensitivity
The first two control how much light will strike the image sensor, and ISO determines how sensitive the sensor is (think of it like the different film "speeds" back in film photography...ASA 100, 200, 400, etc.).
All three of these interact with each other. Think of it like a basic algebra problem:
x= proper exposure - this is a constant, it never changes
a= shutter speed
b= aperture size
c= ISO
So, x = a + b + c. Okay...there really isn't any kind of addition going on. BUT, there is a relationship between everything. If you change one value (a, b, or c), you MUST change at least one of the other values to compensate...if not both values. To further illustrate, I'll just use some random numbers. If:
10 = 5 + 2 + 3
If I change 5 to 6, then I MUST change one or both of the other values to maintain the outcome of 10:
10 = 6 + 2 + 2
or
10 = 6 + 1 + 3
See? It's about relationships, and how they all interact with each other.
You will have different "exposure modes" on your camera (not including the auto or "scene" modes):
**Aperture priority - You set the aperture (and ISO), and the camera will determine the shutter speed for correct exposure.
**Shutter priority - You set the shutter speed (and ISO), and the camera will determine the aperture for correct exposure.
**Manual - you set aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Correct exposure is up to you to figure out.
Each has uses and advantages. You will probably find that aperture priority will be the most useful in most situations. This is why most photographers, even the pros, use this most of the time. This is because the aperture size controls the "depth of field", and this is something you usually will want control of (I'll discus "depth of field" in the next section). But there will be times when it won't give you the results you need, and you will need to pick another mode...depending on what you're trying to achieve.
Now, to explain what aperture, shutter speed, and ISO does:
** Shutter speed - controls how fast the shutter stays open. A longer shutter speed will let more light in, making a brighter picture. But for a picture of a moving object, a faster shutter speed will be needed to freeze the object. A faster speed will let LESS light in, making a darker picture.
** Aperture size - the aperture is the opening that lets the light in. The values used for this are a little confusing. It is expressed in "f-stops". A smaller f-stop value means a larger opening, and a larger f-stop value means a smaller opening. So, an f-stop value of f/ 2.8 is a very large opening...letting in a lot of light. A value of f/ 16 is a very small opening, letting in much less light.
** ISO - as stated above, the ISO is the sensitivity of the image sensor. A lower number means it is less sensitive, and requires more light to strike the sensor for the image to be bright.
What are the uses of these settings? I'm glad you asked.
** Shutter speed - you can use this to either freeze a moving object...using a fast speed. Or, you can show movement of an object by using a longer speed...and letting the image blur as it moves. Also, you can use a LONG shutter speed on a non-moving object to let in much more light. Such as...taking a picture of a landscape...at night. You will need a very long shutter speed to let in enough light.
** Aperture - besides controlling the amount of light, it also controls the "depth of field". That is...how much of the image is in focus...from the front of the image to the background of the image. If you use a very large opening (like f/ 2.8) only a very small portion of the image will be in focus...the area you choose. The rest of the image will start to blur, very softly. This is used in macro or close-up photography, but also used a lot in portraits...where you WANT the background to blur, so it won't distract you from the main subject.
Just the oppposite...using a small opening (such as f/ 16) will make most of the image in focus, not just the main subject. VERY useful for landscape photography, where you want the WHOLE image in focus...not just some little part of it.
** ISO - you're thinking...if a higher number means the sensor is more sensitive...then I'll just use a high setting...right? WRONG.
So, now for some examples, to maybe make this make a little more sense:
Example 1 - Outdoor portrait, aperture priority:
I want to take a picture of you outdoors, where it is very bright. I want you to be in focus, but I want the bacground to blur and be soft. So, maybe I'll use an aperture of f/ 2.8. I'll leave my ISO at 100. Since it's very bright outside, this will be probably be fine. In bright sunlight, shooting at ISO 100 and f/ 2.8...I'll probably have a very fast shutter speed. Since you will be standing still, this isn't important. But, if you were moving, this would be a nice benefit.
Example 2 - Nature landscape, aperture priority:
I want to take a picture of the pretty landscape. It's a bright, sunny day. I'll leave my ISO at 100 to start with. Since I want the entire image in focus, I'll use an aperture of maybe f/ 16. This will probably give me an acceptable shutter speed, enough to hand hold the shot. If not, I will either need to put the camera on a tripod...or increase the ISO, which in turn will make the shutter speed faster. Sense I'm increasing the sensitivity to light, the shutter speed will get faster to compensate for the extra brightness.
Example 3 - Action photograph, aperture priority:
I want to take a picture of my child, while he's running, in bright light. But, I also want to control the depth of field for a more pleasing image. I'll use an aperture of f/ 2.8...a large size, letting in a lot of light...but also nicely blurring the background. But since he is moving, I need a fast shutter speed. At ISO 100, I may not have a fast enough shutter speed to "freeze" the action. So, if I start bumping up the ISO...maybe to ISO 400...or even ISO 800...I'll get a VERY fast shutter speed to compensate for all that extra brightness. If the depth of field isn't important to you, you could set your ISO somewhere in the middle, maybe ISO 400, and use Shutter priority. Then you can set exactly the shutter speed you want...maybe 1/1000 sec. And the camera will determine the proper aperture setting. (but, it may not look the way you want...so just be aware)
Example 4 - Night time landscape of the city:
You can try aperture priority on this, but you may have to switch to manual and just try a few settings until you get it right. But try aperture priority first. The same as the above landscape...I want everything in focus. So, an aperture of f/ 16. But this is a low-light shot...I want the ISO to be very low, so I will not see noise in the image. So, I'll use ISO 100. Because of the small aperture and low ISO, I will need a LONG shutter speed. Maybe 30 seconds....maybe more. This is why you might have to switch to manual mode...to get longer than 30 seconds. A TRIPOD IS REQUIRED FOR THIS SHOT.
A last thought: if your camera lens doesn't have "image stabilization", you will have a hard time taking hand-held shots at shutter speeds slower than 1/60 second. You may be able to, depending on how steady you are. If it does have "IS", you can MAYBE use slower speeds...maybe down to 1/20 sec. This all varies from person to person. If your subject is moving, you will need to use a faster shutter speed (maybe 1/100 sec) and possibly a flash. Image stabilization won't help you with this.
Flash photography gets a little more complicated, and some of these rules don't apply in the exact same way. Get comfortable with this before attempting any serious flash photography. Walk before you run.
very well said Mark many thanks
grywolf627
Member
You're welcome! A lot of people on here probably know this already, but I know there are some novices here that are interested in photography. I hope someone can find it useful.
Great info! Very detailed and easy to understand, i like the examples. I always have problems to understand photo tutorials in my native language (dutch) but i find it much easier to read them in english.
grywolf627
Member
^Thanks! I hope people realize the "math" I did isn't really math, and helps to get the point across. I couldn't think of a better way to explain it. And the settings I used in the example scenarios were just examples...not settings that have to be used.
The best way for beginners to learn is to learn the terminology, learn what the settings mean and do, and just start shooting pictures, and playing with the settings. Maybe take the exact same shot several times, but change the aperture each time so you see the difference. Also, find pictures similar to what you want to take, and analyze them. What is it about the picture that you like? What's going on in the picture? What's the depth of field like? What settings do you think they used to achieve that? If you look at pictures on flickr, many times you can see what settings they used (if the photographer kept the meta data embedded). Where it will say something like "taken with Canon 450D" or something like this, it's actually a link. Click it, and it will show you the EXIF data. You'll see the settings used. Seeing the settings used in pictures I liked really helped me to start making sense of this stuff.
Again, I am by NO MEANS an expert in photography. Not even close. I know nothing compared to people like Brian (arv foh). But I love photography, and I learn a lot as I go along.
And the settings I used in the example scenarios were just examples...not settings that have to be used. The best way for beginners to learn is to learn the terminology, learn what the settings mean and do, and just start shooting pictures, and playing with the settings. Maybe take the exact same shot several times, but change the aperture each time so you see the difference. Also, find pictures similar to what you want to take, and analyze them. What is it about the picture that you like? What's going on in the picture? What's the depth of field like? What settings do you think they used to achieve that? If you look at pictures on flickr, many times you can see what settings they used (if the photographer kept the meta data embedded). Where it will say something like "taken with Canon 450D" or something like this, it's actually a link. Click it, and it will show you the EXIF data. You'll see the settings used. Seeing the settings used in pictures I liked really helped me to start making sense of this stuff.
Again, I am by NO MEANS an expert in photography. Not even close. I know nothing compared to people like Brian (arv foh). But I love photography, and I learn a lot as I go along.
Jarkko Mattheiszen
The FU guy.
After years of not having any hobbies besides anything audio or music related I realized how good it feels to do something completely different (and we're talking about throwing plastic discs at baskets here ) and I started thinking I might finally want to grab a DSLR. I definitely don't need anything overly fancy, just something I can have fun with, learn and in the end get decent pictures with.
Now, I could get a returned Canon EOS1000D+18-55 IS kit for around 250€ all in all. I'm not looking to spend a fortune (at least in the very beginning), so would that one be a decent pick as a first "proper" camera?
) and I started thinking I might finally want to grab a DSLR. I definitely don't need anything overly fancy, just something I can have fun with, learn and in the end get decent pictures with.Now, I could get a returned Canon EOS1000D+18-55 IS kit for around 250€ all in all. I'm not looking to spend a fortune (at least in the very beginning), so would that one be a decent pick as a first "proper" camera?
Wohma
Hearing sounds and voices
Jarkko: That's not an easy question to answer. In short - yes, that would be a totally OK first proper camera. But you could also spend much less (and even go as far as buying and old OLD 300D with kit lens) or you could decide that this is the hobby you want to pursue for a while and then you might want to read some info on the internet prior to buying and invest some more money.
An advice for you - act exactly as when reading info on guitars, mikes or amps, that is take seriously as little as you can. People talk a lot while knowing shit and brand fanboys can be worse than any other when it comes to photo equipment. The differences are really subtle from the point of view of a beginner and if you will grow to like photography, you'll learn what you need along the way - NOBODY can tell you everything in advance.
I, for example, prefer Pentax cameras, but just for one simple reason - availability of old manual lenses and their easiness to use. I prefer taking photos with those old lenses, as they can be had for cheap and you get excellent image quality (but you lose automatic focus and mostly zoom ability as well). So it's really about preferences rather than brand A being so much better than brand B.
An advice for you - act exactly as when reading info on guitars, mikes or amps, that is take seriously as little as you can. People talk a lot while knowing shit and brand fanboys can be worse than any other when it comes to photo equipment. The differences are really subtle from the point of view of a beginner and if you will grow to like photography, you'll learn what you need along the way - NOBODY can tell you everything in advance.
I, for example, prefer Pentax cameras, but just for one simple reason - availability of old manual lenses and their easiness to use. I prefer taking photos with those old lenses, as they can be had for cheap and you get excellent image quality (but you lose automatic focus and mostly zoom ability as well). So it's really about preferences rather than brand A being so much better than brand B.
