Tube Screamer FAQ Version 1

[JBroll]

Some various time periods had other op amps instead of the 4558-types. For better or worse, they were noticeable, and manufacturers promptly pulled a 'Coke Classic' and went back to the original circuit core. Also, ancient pedals used carbon-comp resistors here and there, and while some people say they notice a difference I've pulled a few tests on the mojo-loving types (with everything matched up measurement-wise and switches to go from carbon-comp to silicon) and it's a bunch of voodoo nonsense.

Jeff

 

[Metaltastic]

Here's a question for the mods section: in this ebay auction, it mentions that it gives you "better sounding" poly film caps. As they don't specify what kind of difference specifically it makes ("more full and transparent"), could it be that these really are just higher quality pieces (like getting headers or a new exhaust for your car, for example) that improve the sound quality without taking away from the stuff we like (mid-hump, HPF, etc.) And if not, are there any mods that do "swap the exhaust" on a TS?

 

[JBroll]

See, both increased and decreased clarity will sound better if it makes a seller some money. 'Better' components will sound more 'transparent', 'hi-fi', and 'clear', while 'worse' (ahem... 'boutique'/'vintage') components sound 'smoother' or 'warmer' if the money is in it. Don't bother with their voodoo nonsense - if you were an obsessive ass about corduroy pants affecting tone negatively you'd care, but with as much other stuff going on as there is there's no excuse for spending that kind of money on it. What's more, the two tantalum caps in question would cost maybe pennies on their own.

Don't - I repeat, don't - buy mod kits from eBay. People sell them there because they get literally 90-95% profit, and they'll say whatever they have to (whether it's true or not, whether it's what you're looking for or not), so if you think something needs to be fixed spend a few minutes learning what it actually is and fix it with parts from some *real* electronics store.

To answer the last part of the question, it is more like an exhaust system swap - won't kill your mid hump or anything like that, no, but it's not exactly useful.

Jeff

 

[deanbailey]

I have a question regarding the LED topic in mod section of your first post. Just not to sure on replacing an LED (specifically the TS-7's) You mentioned "If you match the Diodes right". Does it have a power rating/resistance/ohm that needs to be matched with the original in order unalter the sound?
Or are all LED's the same?

 

[JBroll]

Do you mean changing the indicator LED or putting an LED in the clipping section?

'Matching the diodes right' refers to pairing diodes with each other, and that's a lot of guesswork with a touch of patience as far as I've gotten into it. If you have a couple of parameters (that I can't recall or explain off the top of my head) matched right you'll have different harmonic content pop up... I'll look into this and add it to the mod pictorials that'll pop up when school is out, I have enough time to eat two meals a day, I remember what I've been planning to do, the planets align to form a shape suspiciously similar looking to Bugs Bunny, and I can track down all of the electrical nonsense that I haven't pulled out since moving in the summer. Probably a few weeks, this is the last week of class and finals are next week, so I'm cramped as fuck for time.

Jeff

 

[deanbailey]

Yeah sorry, wasn't clear enough. I meant the indicator light (pedal on/off)

 

[JBroll]

Erm... can't remember that one off the top of my head. You do need to lower something to let a brighter LED shine at its full potential or raise it for a more delicate LED to prevent burnout, but I'll be damned if I can remember where it is or how much it needs to happen. I'll look that up.

Jeff

 

[deanbailey]

ok thanks, i'll just buy one and try it out.

 

[::XeS::]

Are there some differences between green TS7 and Gray TS7 (new one)?

 

[LSD-Studio]

Are there some differences between green TS7 and Gray TS7 (new one)?

the green one was just a special run, it's exactly the same though (cept the color of course)

 

[::XeS::]

Ok..thanks!

 

[ffaudio]

So the TS7 will fulfill the same needs as the old school TS9?

 

[JBroll]

Yes. It *is* the old school TS9.

Jeff

 

[ffaudio]

Okay, I thought it was just too easy and I was misreading something, but cool. That makes me happy.

No wasting money on the random vintage ones that sell for $300.

 

[::XeS::]

Hi
My christmas present was an Ibanez TS7.
In these days I'm trying this pedal and I'm very happy but....I've noticed a "problem".
When I play a "chugga" riff with a lot of stop and go, when I mute the strings with the left hand, I hear a noticeable noise (string ringing) and if I turn off the tubescreamer, this noise disappear.
It's as if the TS amplify all the little mistakes I do and I can't hear w/o TS..
I know they are my mistakes but what I mean is that with a TS these mistakes result more noticeable

 

[Metaltastic]

Try turning down the drive and/or level, I actually have my level at 10:30 to achieve unity gain

 

[derfbonker]

Try turning the gain down, it might be that. It might also be that you have a pickup or preamp tube that has gone, or is starting to go, microphonic. If that is the case one of them needs to be replaced. (or repotted if its the pickup)

 

[::XeS::]

Now I have:
Drive: 1 (8 o'clock)
Tone: 3 (10 o'clock)
Level: 5 (12 o'clock)

I'll try

 

[JBroll]

Are those notch-count settings or clock settings?

If you use more gain, you hear more. That's just the way it works. Try setting the drive low and the level to wherever the on and off positions are about the same.

Also, put some foam under the strings behind the nut and, if you have a trem, next to and under the springs in the trem cavity.

Jeff

 

[::XeS::]

Hi JBroll
They are notch-count settings and I always use foam under the strings (fixed bridge). I'll try to adjust the level and the drive a 0