Preparing your tracks for reamping: A Guide
- Thread starter Glenn Fricker
- Start date
arthurdestroyer
Destroyer of the world
Hello everybody, i'm posting to say thanks to Oz, because this tutorial it's fantastic. So, as we speak with him, i will post my translation to spanish, for the people who doesnt' understand very well english. So, i'm translating some others tutorial, but i'm waiting for the permission of the autors.
it's just an aprox. translation
COMO PREPARAR TUS PISTAS PARA SER “REAMPEADAS”
Lo que necesitaras:
1) Tu guitarra
2) Un buen afinador. Yo recomiendo encarecidamente el G-TUNE. Peterson licensed. Lo hay en version shareware por 20$
3) Ordenador y Tarjeta de Sonido
4) Direct Box
5) Previo de Micro
Entonces, que es el Reamping?
Es una pregunta por la cual siempre he sido preguntado muchas veces. Sencillamente: Reamping es cuando tomas la señal seca directamente de las pastillas de tu guitarra y es mandada a otro dispositivo en donde podemos tener una selección mejor de previos o micros, y podamos experimentar con diferentes tecnicas microfonicas, transformandolas de “vaya mierda, me gustaria que sonara mejor” a "Hostia puta, esto es el puto infierno”
Y…como lo hago?
Bueno, hay muchas maneras de hacerlo, dependiendo de lo que queramos.
USANDO UN AMPLI/POD/OLOQUESEA
Vas a necesitar una direct box. Hay muchas y de diferentes tipos, pero todas ellas, hacen lo mismo: Tienen un imput, un link o “thru” y un XLR output... tambien tiene un interruptor de tierra o ground lift. Enchufa tu guitarra al imput, enchufa el XLR a tu mejor previo, y enchufa el link o “thru” a tu ampli/pod/oloquesea. Activa el boton de ground lift para reducir el ruido. ENCHUFA EL PHANTOM POWER EN TU PREVIO SI ESTAS UTILIZANDO UNA DIRECT BOX ACTIVA!! Enchufa y prepara tu secuenciador favorito, y ponte a grabar. Se grabara el sonido seco (limpio) y el sonido del amplificador/pod/oloquesea
COMPRUEBA QUE ESTAS GRABANDO A 24BIT. Ahora, las pistas secas sonaran un poco mierda. Resistete y no pongas nada a esta pista, ni compresores, ni limitadores ni NADA, SI TIENES UN LIMITADOR EN LA PROPIA TARJETA APAGALO estamos intentando capturando la esencia de la guitarra, la señal que recibe el propio amplificador. Esto no significa que sea agradable al oido (no lo es). Intenta ajustar la ganancia del previo, de tal manera que la parte mas alta de la señal llegue a aproximadamente a -3 o -4 db, por debajo de los 0 db en el vumetro del secuenciador. Estaras grabando a 24 bit, por lo cual tendremos margen suficiente antes de que el ruido aparezca. No intentes alcanzar el nivel de 0 db, esto puede causar problemas con los picos, ya que una guitarra “seca”, es extremadamente dinamica e inpredicible, por eso a -3 o -4 db funcionara el reamp correctamente.
USANDO EMULACION POR SOFTWARE/IMPUT DE LA TARJETA DE SONIDO
Puedes usar una direct box, o si tu tarjeta de sonido tiene una entrada de instrumento, puedes utilizarla. Enchufate, configura tu secuenciador para monitoreo directo y setea tu ampli favorito. Tan solo haz que la señal sea grabada PRE FX, esto significa que la guitarra sera grabada a pelo antes de ser procesada.
Si tu amp modelling es una computadora, hay maneras de there are ways to get around it: Primero, configura tu secuenciador en el modo directo o live, entonces podras configurar un bus con la simulación de amplificación, después configura un envio auxiliar del canal desde tu señal seca de la guitarra al bus y envia al output a otro imput de grabacion, de esta manera grabaras la señal seca, sin afectar y el sonido de la simulación de amplificación. Esto hace la vida mas facil para hacer diferentes pistas. De esta manera tambien puedes utilizar este metodo para grabar a traves del POD via Usb.
CONSEJOS
Afina después de cada toma. Esto es muy importante a la hora de hacer quad tracking (cuatro pistas)
Asegurate de que tu guitarra. Si no sabes como ajustarla, llevala al tecnico local y que lo haga el, y recuerda decirle en que tono quieres tenerla afinada.
Comprueba que la electronica de tu guitarra esta en perfecto estado. Esto incluye revisar que la tierra esta bien conectada.
A la hora de exportar, asegurate de exportar a 24 bit, en un archivo MONO, en formato wav, estereo NO. (…
SOBRE DIRECT BOXES
Hay dos tipos, pasivas y activas. Si estas utilizando un cable inferior a 20 feet (6 metros), puedes utilizar cajas pasivas. Por encima de esa medida, utiliza activas. Personalmente utilizo, la Radial Tech J48 Active Direct Box. Funciona sin alimentación phantom en mi previo de micro. Es un poco mas cara que otras cajas, pero es como un tanque y seguramente me dure para toda la vida, una buena caja, la recomiendo si utilizas pastillas activas.
Si vas a utilizar pasivas, mejor utiliza esta otra, la Countryman Type 85 Link, mismo rango de precios que la J48, pero tiene mucha mas impedancia que sera mejor para mantener el tono de las pasivas. Evidentemente la impedancia de entrada juega un punto critico en el tono de la guitarra...
Countryman Type 85 LINK
La unica advertencia con esta caja es que si utilizas activas como las EMG…puede no responder a las partes mas cañeras, aplastando el sonido de las partes mas fuertes.
Si eres pobre, puedes utilizar una ART passive box
Un interface que he estado probando ha sido el imput de la vieja Edirol UA 25, obteniendo muy buenos resultados, quite el limitador, y ya esta, no pude encontrar las especificaciones de impedancia, pero desheche mi ART y le di caña a las activas.
A dia de hoy, hay muchas cajas, y no puedo decir cual es mejor o peor, pero si te puedo decir que debes evitar la Berhinger DI20 Ultra DI 2 Channel Active
Es ruidosa como ninguna e inútil, recuerda que estas reamplificando la señal muchas veces cuando la estas reampeando, un minimo ruido en la señal, puede convertirse en el Apocalipsis en tu amplificador.
-0z- (www.ultimatemetal.com) Traducido por arthurdestroyer
(si lo copias, cita la fuente y respeta los comentarios del autor)
it's just an aprox. translation
COMO PREPARAR TUS PISTAS PARA SER “REAMPEADAS”
Lo que necesitaras:
1) Tu guitarra
2) Un buen afinador. Yo recomiendo encarecidamente el G-TUNE. Peterson licensed. Lo hay en version shareware por 20$
3) Ordenador y Tarjeta de Sonido
4) Direct Box
5) Previo de Micro
Entonces, que es el Reamping?
Es una pregunta por la cual siempre he sido preguntado muchas veces. Sencillamente: Reamping es cuando tomas la señal seca directamente de las pastillas de tu guitarra y es mandada a otro dispositivo en donde podemos tener una selección mejor de previos o micros, y podamos experimentar con diferentes tecnicas microfonicas, transformandolas de “vaya mierda, me gustaria que sonara mejor” a "Hostia puta, esto es el puto infierno”
Y…como lo hago?
Bueno, hay muchas maneras de hacerlo, dependiendo de lo que queramos.
USANDO UN AMPLI/POD/OLOQUESEA
Vas a necesitar una direct box. Hay muchas y de diferentes tipos, pero todas ellas, hacen lo mismo: Tienen un imput, un link o “thru” y un XLR output... tambien tiene un interruptor de tierra o ground lift. Enchufa tu guitarra al imput, enchufa el XLR a tu mejor previo, y enchufa el link o “thru” a tu ampli/pod/oloquesea. Activa el boton de ground lift para reducir el ruido. ENCHUFA EL PHANTOM POWER EN TU PREVIO SI ESTAS UTILIZANDO UNA DIRECT BOX ACTIVA!! Enchufa y prepara tu secuenciador favorito, y ponte a grabar. Se grabara el sonido seco (limpio) y el sonido del amplificador/pod/oloquesea
COMPRUEBA QUE ESTAS GRABANDO A 24BIT. Ahora, las pistas secas sonaran un poco mierda. Resistete y no pongas nada a esta pista, ni compresores, ni limitadores ni NADA, SI TIENES UN LIMITADOR EN LA PROPIA TARJETA APAGALO estamos intentando capturando la esencia de la guitarra, la señal que recibe el propio amplificador. Esto no significa que sea agradable al oido (no lo es). Intenta ajustar la ganancia del previo, de tal manera que la parte mas alta de la señal llegue a aproximadamente a -3 o -4 db, por debajo de los 0 db en el vumetro del secuenciador. Estaras grabando a 24 bit, por lo cual tendremos margen suficiente antes de que el ruido aparezca. No intentes alcanzar el nivel de 0 db, esto puede causar problemas con los picos, ya que una guitarra “seca”, es extremadamente dinamica e inpredicible, por eso a -3 o -4 db funcionara el reamp correctamente.
USANDO EMULACION POR SOFTWARE/IMPUT DE LA TARJETA DE SONIDO
Puedes usar una direct box, o si tu tarjeta de sonido tiene una entrada de instrumento, puedes utilizarla. Enchufate, configura tu secuenciador para monitoreo directo y setea tu ampli favorito. Tan solo haz que la señal sea grabada PRE FX, esto significa que la guitarra sera grabada a pelo antes de ser procesada.
Si tu amp modelling es una computadora, hay maneras de there are ways to get around it: Primero, configura tu secuenciador en el modo directo o live, entonces podras configurar un bus con la simulación de amplificación, después configura un envio auxiliar del canal desde tu señal seca de la guitarra al bus y envia al output a otro imput de grabacion, de esta manera grabaras la señal seca, sin afectar y el sonido de la simulación de amplificación. Esto hace la vida mas facil para hacer diferentes pistas. De esta manera tambien puedes utilizar este metodo para grabar a traves del POD via Usb.
CONSEJOS
Afina después de cada toma. Esto es muy importante a la hora de hacer quad tracking (cuatro pistas)
Asegurate de que tu guitarra. Si no sabes como ajustarla, llevala al tecnico local y que lo haga el, y recuerda decirle en que tono quieres tenerla afinada.
Comprueba que la electronica de tu guitarra esta en perfecto estado. Esto incluye revisar que la tierra esta bien conectada.
A la hora de exportar, asegurate de exportar a 24 bit, en un archivo MONO, en formato wav, estereo NO. (…
SOBRE DIRECT BOXES
Hay dos tipos, pasivas y activas. Si estas utilizando un cable inferior a 20 feet (6 metros), puedes utilizar cajas pasivas. Por encima de esa medida, utiliza activas. Personalmente utilizo, la Radial Tech J48 Active Direct Box. Funciona sin alimentación phantom en mi previo de micro. Es un poco mas cara que otras cajas, pero es como un tanque y seguramente me dure para toda la vida, una buena caja, la recomiendo si utilizas pastillas activas.
Si vas a utilizar pasivas, mejor utiliza esta otra, la Countryman Type 85 Link, mismo rango de precios que la J48, pero tiene mucha mas impedancia que sera mejor para mantener el tono de las pasivas. Evidentemente la impedancia de entrada juega un punto critico en el tono de la guitarra...
Countryman Type 85 LINK
La unica advertencia con esta caja es que si utilizas activas como las EMG…puede no responder a las partes mas cañeras, aplastando el sonido de las partes mas fuertes.
Si eres pobre, puedes utilizar una ART passive box
Un interface que he estado probando ha sido el imput de la vieja Edirol UA 25, obteniendo muy buenos resultados, quite el limitador, y ya esta, no pude encontrar las especificaciones de impedancia, pero desheche mi ART y le di caña a las activas.
A dia de hoy, hay muchas cajas, y no puedo decir cual es mejor o peor, pero si te puedo decir que debes evitar la Berhinger DI20 Ultra DI 2 Channel Active
Es ruidosa como ninguna e inútil, recuerda que estas reamplificando la señal muchas veces cuando la estas reampeando, un minimo ruido en la señal, puede convertirse en el Apocalipsis en tu amplificador.
-0z- (www.ultimatemetal.com) Traducido por arthurdestroyer
(si lo copias, cita la fuente y respeta los comentarios del autor)
The-Zeronaut
Mixing..Y U SO DIFFICULT?
- Sep 24, 2007
- 1,794
- 5
- 38
THE WAIT IS OVER
http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/...-di-shootout-also-my-best-recto-tone-yet.html
Now there's finally some hard evidence for picking one DI over another
http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/...-di-shootout-also-my-best-recto-tone-yet.html
Now there's finally some hard evidence for picking one DI over another
guitarded88
Member
Hey, forum noob here. Got two quick questions...
I'm new to reamping, I want to get a x-amp but the interface i'm using now (Tascam US-122) has rca outputs. Can I just get an rca to xlr cable and plug it into the x-amp, or is it more complicated then that? Am I S.O.L.?
Another alternative... I've been looking into getting an Apogee duet 'cause apparently they're awesome... and recently I learned they have an instrument level OUTPUT as well as an instrument input... so doesn't that mean I don't even need a reamping device?
I'm new to reamping, I want to get a x-amp but the interface i'm using now (Tascam US-122) has rca outputs. Can I just get an rca to xlr cable and plug it into the x-amp, or is it more complicated then that? Am I S.O.L.?
Another alternative... I've been looking into getting an Apogee duet 'cause apparently they're awesome... and recently I learned they have an instrument level OUTPUT as well as an instrument input... so doesn't that mean I don't even need a reamping device?
John_C
formerly Skeksis268
It seems to me that a bridging impedance would give you the best results (output impedance at least 1/10th of input impedance). This should in theory give you the most accurate DI recording. Then when re-amping, having a output impedance that is the same as the output impedance of your pickups is probably best if you want it to sound the same as if you'd been playing straight into the amp
You would definitely get signal doing RCA-XLR, I'm just not sure if it'd sound as good as if it were coming from a balanced line-level output. And I hadn't heard that about the Duet, but that would be awesome if it was true, cuz yeah, I'm pretty sure that means you wouldn't need a re-amp box (though instrument level might not necessarily be instrument impedance). I'll have to investigate...
OK, checked, it doesn't have instrument outputs, just monitor and headphone. Also though, one thing I can't stress enough is considering an audio interface with more than two outputs if you're gonna be reamping. Otherwise, one of your monitor channels would also be sending the DI signal out to the amp, which would mean you couldn't have anything else playing back through that channel while re-amping, so you could only monitor the mic'ed guitar signal through one speaker (which I guess wouldn't be so bad, but still, I love having 6 outputs on my Onyx Satellite so I don't have to do any disconnecting/muting.)
guitarded88
Member
Are you sure? I've seen in several places that you can switch the output from line to instrument level using the software that comes with it (Maestro).
It doesn't say on the website itself but in several places i've seen it confirmed.
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/archive/index.php/t-301034.html <-- search reamp within that thread.
http://mixonline.com/gear/reviews/audio_snapshot_product_reviews_34/ <-- or search 'instrument level output' in that article
It says that it can be configured for -10dBu instrument level output... but i guess that doesn't mean it has the correct impedance...
How can I tell the output impedance of the duet?
It doesn't say on the website itself but in several places i've seen it confirmed.
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/archive/index.php/t-301034.html <-- search reamp within that thread.
http://mixonline.com/gear/reviews/audio_snapshot_product_reviews_34/ <-- or search 'instrument level output' in that article
It says that it can be configured for -10dBu instrument level output... but i guess that doesn't mean it has the correct impedance...
How can I tell the output impedance of the duet?
Ah ok, the only place I looked was the Apogee website - I'm not certain about determining the impedance, so I guess I would say if that's the only reason you're considering spending the extra money on the Duet, I'd look elsewhere for a cheaper option that would still sound almost (if not just) as good and leave you some cash left over for a re-amp box! And speaking of the latter...
http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/equipment/465146-big-re-amper-shootout.html
http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/equipment/465146-big-re-amper-shootout.html
guitarded88
Member
I actually already checked out your other thread. Awesome recording sound by the way! What set up are you using?
I was planning on upgrading to the duet eventually cause i was under the impression that you couldnt get the same quality for any cheaper. I was going to purchase a reamp box first to use with my tascam... but it looks like that might not even work properly so i was going to spring for the duet...
Choices choices...
I was planning on upgrading to the duet eventually cause i was under the impression that you couldnt get the same quality for any cheaper. I was going to purchase a reamp box first to use with my tascam... but it looks like that might not even work properly so i was going to spring for the duet...
Choices choices...
Thanks dude! I recorded two DI tracks with my Ibanez (now with an EMG 81 in the bridge), then re-amped them through each box without changing amp settings, mic position, etc. (though I had to turn the amp gain up for both Radial units so it would match the other two). The signal chain was TS7 --> Mesa 2 Ch. Dual Rec, Red channel --> Mesa Stiletto Slant 4x12 --> SM57 mic'ing the bottom-right speaker --> Mackie Onyx Satellite.
As for your interface situation, I dunno, the duet does seem pretty cool, but not having more than two outputs would get on my nerves, and I wouldn't wanna limit myself to 4 total inputs. If you can live with those, though, I'd imagine it would be the best quality interface for under $1k (though this is only going by its price and Apogee's reputation). Personally, if I were you I'd go for a Presonus Firebox or Edirol FA-66 or Focusrite Saffire.
As for your interface situation, I dunno, the duet does seem pretty cool, but not having more than two outputs would get on my nerves, and I wouldn't wanna limit myself to 4 total inputs. If you can live with those, though, I'd imagine it would be the best quality interface for under $1k (though this is only going by its price and Apogee's reputation). Personally, if I were you I'd go for a Presonus Firebox or Edirol FA-66 or Focusrite Saffire.
guitarded88
Member
Hmmm... I use a very similar set up, OD-808 --> Noise Gate --> 5150 Combo --> SM57 on left speaker --> US-122... but I don't get nearly as good a sound. Is the key double tracking? Maybe I'm missing something.
How cranked does my amp have to be? (Hopefully not too much considering I live in an apartment)... I tend to turn it up pretty loud anyways
I use an MXR 10 Band Graphic EQ in the loop and turn the volume wayy down so I can crank the Power Tube section of my amp a bit harder. And also have a mattress in front of the amp to absorb some of the sound/reflections of my room.
I would love to get to the bottom of this Apogee Duet dilemma. What qualities exactly are needed for a good reamp tone? I might fire off a question directly to Apogee asking about output Impedance, etc... what other info would I need to ask?
How cranked does my amp have to be? (Hopefully not too much considering I live in an apartment)... I tend to turn it up pretty loud anyways
I use an MXR 10 Band Graphic EQ in the loop and turn the volume wayy down so I can crank the Power Tube section of my amp a bit harder. And also have a mattress in front of the amp to absorb some of the sound/reflections of my room.
I would love to get to the bottom of this Apogee Duet dilemma. What qualities exactly are needed for a good reamp tone? I might fire off a question directly to Apogee asking about output Impedance, etc... what other info would I need to ask?
That's really it, I'd say, instrument signal level and output impedance. And I don't have my amp too loud when I record, and the problems I recognize in my own recordings I don't think really stem from the volume. It's hard for me to give suggestions without clips, but right away I'd suggest recording two takes (double-tracking), hard panning one L and one R, and ditching the EQ in the loop for the sake of keeping it simple. Post a clip over in the Rate my Mix/Tone section, and we'll definitely be able to help more!
guitarded88
Member
Awesome, thanks for your help bud.
I'll post a link there with some of the crap I've been recording in the next few days.
By the way, I actually did the 18v mod on my my ESP MH-1000 today after seeing your shootout thread. I had the battery clips layin' around for a while but I finally decided to go for it. Especially when I learned I didn't need to solder.
I'll post my findings when Apogee gets back to me in case any one else is curious about the Duet's Reamping capabilities.
I'll post a link there with some of the crap I've been recording in the next few days.
By the way, I actually did the 18v mod on my my ESP MH-1000 today after seeing your shootout thread. I had the battery clips layin' around for a while but I finally decided to go for it. Especially when I learned I didn't need to solder.
I'll post my findings when Apogee gets back to me in case any one else is curious about the Duet's Reamping capabilities.
No problem dude! And yeah, that'd be awesome if one could re-amp with the Duet! The next step would be a blind shootout between that and a well-regarded unit (you could do it my way, find one for a good price on ebay and then sell it when you're finished, maybe even for a profit! )
)
ikan
New Metal Member
- Jun 15, 2008
- 26
- 0
- 1
Gurus,
Currently, I use this setup: guitar (passive p/u) ---> Toneport UX2 ---> notebook
In case some of you do not know, or maybe this might help you guys in giving the best solutions for re-amping, here's the snapshot of front & back panels of the UX2:
I normally plug my guitar into the "NORM" of the front panel. Do I still need to get myself a DI Box? Which one do you recommend?
Currently, I use this setup: guitar (passive p/u) ---> Toneport UX2 ---> notebook
In case some of you do not know, or maybe this might help you guys in giving the best solutions for re-amping, here's the snapshot of front & back panels of the UX2:
I normally plug my guitar into the "NORM" of the front panel. Do I still need to get myself a DI Box? Which one do you recommend?
Fox Mulder
The Truth Is Out There
Gurus,
Currently, I use this setup: guitar (passive p/u) ---> Toneport UX2 ---> notebook
In case some of you do not know, or maybe this might help you guys in giving the best solutions for re-amping, here's the snapshot of front & back panels of the UX2:
I normally plug my guitar into the "NORM" of the front panel. Do I still need to get myself a DI Box? Which one do you recommend?
You don't need one. The Toneport is a DI itself.
Go through the manual.
Cheers!
Moonlight_Seeker
Member
Guys, try and figure out what my problem is, because I surely can't
I'm running back the recorded DI track that I made, as well as other people's DI tracks that I found in this thread, but the level isn't up to par. I'm running the track in Cubase, out of my interface and into my amp, but the way it sounds is what you get when you roll back the volume on your guitar. Since I'm using not only my own DI track but others' as well, it must be a problem on my end.
I'm thinking it may be a problem in Cubase and not the reamp because I had this reamp box built for me by hand and it was working 100% as far as I know. Like I said, for some reason, when running back these DI tracks, it just doesn't sound right through my amp and it sounds a little weak kind of like how you roll back the volume back on your guitar. The distortion sounds weak and more like a clean guitar.
I'm running it mono (just the left side since I'm using the left output on my interface) back into the reamp, then to my amp. I'm not sure what's up.
I'm running back the recorded DI track that I made, as well as other people's DI tracks that I found in this thread, but the level isn't up to par. I'm running the track in Cubase, out of my interface and into my amp, but the way it sounds is what you get when you roll back the volume on your guitar. Since I'm using not only my own DI track but others' as well, it must be a problem on my end.
I'm thinking it may be a problem in Cubase and not the reamp because I had this reamp box built for me by hand and it was working 100% as far as I know. Like I said, for some reason, when running back these DI tracks, it just doesn't sound right through my amp and it sounds a little weak kind of like how you roll back the volume back on your guitar. The distortion sounds weak and more like a clean guitar.
I'm running it mono (just the left side since I'm using the left output on my interface) back into the reamp, then to my amp. I'm not sure what's up.
I'm still having trouble with this weird hissing sound when I turn the gain up on my reamp. The further I turn the knob on my reamp to get the signal from my DAW to the input on my amp, the more hissing there is.
