A story to go along with those pictures I posted in the picture thread.
I got to Obama at around 11 and met an ex-student that lives there. We went to check out Jinguji shrine where Omizu Okuri (water seeding) begins. Not much was going on there but it was good to see it before it got insanely crowded. We got to see what the main hall, what was to become a bonfire, and some giant torches looked like up close and personal before they were put into use.
We then got directions to a very small local shrine a bit farther into the mountains. I'd heard they had a strange ceremony at this shrine to protect against evil but the translations I'd seen had been very odd so I thought the translation was off. Nope, it was dead on. We got to the shrine, saw a few cars parked outside but saw nobody and heard nothing. Just behind the shrine is a small wooden building with no windows, and one door with a lock on it (on the outside, which is freaky). Outside that building were a bunch of shoes, so we knew there were people inside, despite still not hearing or seeing anybody. I went up to the building and peered through a small crack between two of the boards and could make out about 15-20 people just sitting silently at one end of the room. At the other end were around 4 priests, also sitting silently. When I looked back at the other people, some of them were staring at me which freaked me out a bit because the crack is so small and was to their side. I didn't see much happen. It's about an hour long ceremony and they only let in "special" people. I don't know much about it other than that they throw some leaves around and lick red mud. As with most religious events in this country, it was agonizingly slow so we quickly left and got something to eat.
We then went back to Jinguji and saw an archery contest. They stood on a small wooden platform and hit various small targets (including a folding fan) from about 30 meters away. At the mud licking ceremony there was only one other person there not inside the building and at this contest there were only about 20-30 spectators. Seeing the lack of popularity for these events, I wasn't quite prepared for the crowds I was soon to see.
My friend went to work and I checked into my hotel. I had some extra time on my hands so I took a little walking tour of the town and checked out some shrines and temples. At one up on a hillside behind the train tracks, I met with a Buddhist priest that tried to speak with me and insisted I look around the temple garden.
I went to where I'd been told the shuttle buses were to start to take people to Jinguji. I'd gotten there about a half hour early and there was already quite a long line. Eventually they let us on the bus and we were taken to the shrine. (I also have to comment quickly on the people I met that day. The priest at that temple, random people smiling and saying hello, and then a guy on the bus stopping in the aisle to let me out and even patting me on the back as I go? Why must I live in bizzaro Japan?)
There were masses of people walking up to the shrine, getting off buses, telling people where to go, etc. I got up to the shrine and waded my way through the crowd to buy one of the torches we were to use later on. Thankfully I can't write in Japanese so I didn't stop to write a wish on the torch like most people. I say thankfully because if I had, I surely would not have gotten my good spot on the temple grounds. I was right in the very middle of the crowd. Many people couldn't even fit up at the top and had to wait down below and couldn't see this part of the event.
I sat there, closely surrounded by a sea of small, old Japanese people (not many young people come to this apparently) dotted with the occasional gaijin. Many of these people come from hours away for this from Nara, Kyoto, Osaka etc. We all waited as the sun slowly set behind the mountains. Out of nowhere I started to hear some strange noise coming from the main path. It got louder and people started to get more excited. I then saw a ton of camera flashes going off at the far end of the crowd and soon some white clad priests (and their helpers) came walking up. Some were blowing conch shells, one was carrying a wooden ax, some came empty handed. I didn't know what to think of it, but things were getting started and there was a lot of excitement in the crowd.
They entered the shrine, lowered some curtains so that we could hardly see anything and then started chanting. It was a lone voice accompanied by strange sounds, from what, I couldn't see. Prayer beads being scraped together? I don't know. This continued for quite some time as night completely fell. Before we knew it the temperature started dropping and the area was only lit by a small light on the temple and a few braziers.
The chanting stopped, and we heard some running inside the main hall. Then under the curtain we saw a few burning coals move across the doorway. And was that a priest in bright red? Only people in white went inside. I heard a few surprised people in the crowd saying "red?!" This was just a little teaser of what was to come. Next, the priests ran in circles inside, each one stopping at the doorway to do a little unique performance, be it simply shaking bells and jumping up and down or hitting the floor with a kendo sword. After this ended, more and more light began seeping out of the door from around the curtain. The helpers outside started scurrying. The curtain was lifted and out came the red clad priest with an enormous torch, bathing the shrine and spectators in an orange glow. As he waved it around and walked to each side of the hall with it, his helpers followed to help keep the shrine from burning to the ground by sweeping away falling embers and using staves to keep some of decorative curtains out of harms way.
The giant torch (a bit smaller by this time) was used very effectively to part the crowd very near to me and down came all the priests blowing their shells, following the torch to the nearby wood pile topped with some shinto paper on top of a staff. People (including me) tried following the priests in their wake but the crowd collapsed in on itself and left me in a less favorable position to see the next step of the ritual.
I could see over the majority of the heads between me and the action, but I still could see almost nothing. They'd lit some more torches so I could see them swinging the axe around a bit and shooting an arrow into the woods, but little else. I then saw two of the main priests (you can tell which are higher up because they're more covered and more purely white) take two of the torches and approach the wood pile. Now, covering that wood pile was a great amount of evergreen branches. Those burn short, bright, hot and produce an amazing amount of smoke. They put their torches into the base of the pile and shortly, a massive plum of smoke arose from the pile, briefly illuminated by camera flashes. A glow appeared from below and slowly made it's way up the smoke as if consuming even it. The smoke gave way completely to a pillar of bright fire. All faces in the crowd were illuminated and in equal parts awe and joy. I was a ways back and was surprised to feel the heat on my face. We all sat there transfixed by this lone beacon of light on the mountain. The priests began throwing large white things onto the fire and it made an increased amount of sparks arise from the flame to which people exclaimed "It looks like fireworks!" I don't know what it was they threw.
The priests then took small individual torches such as those the spectators had, thrust them into the bonfire and exited the scene. Their helpers took the giant torches from nearby and lit them as well. 3 or 4 people had to carry each on their shoulders and they followed the priests. Then, it was our turn. The crowd surged forward toward the fire. Pushing, elbows, people trying desperately to not get separated from loved ones. It was decidely un-Japanese. I loved it. I think an old lady even kidney punched me to get ahead of me. As people lit their torches, they started streaming behind the priests and their helpers. Or they tried to. It was chaos. People pushing forward, people with lit torches trying to escape without burning anyone, and me just along for the ride.
Shit I have to go back to work. To be continued.