Kazrog's Studio Build (Planning Phase)

Kazrog

Kazrog

Kazrog, Inc.
Mar 6, 2002
5,540
17
38
California
kazrog.com
So, as has been the case for many of you here already, I've reached the point where it's time to move my studio out of my spare bedroom and into an outbuilding studio.

The uses of my studio include:
  • Editing/Mixing/Mastering
  • Tracking Guitars, Bass, Keys, etc.
  • Songwriting
Given that, it doesn't need to be a big space (100 square feet or so) and I won't be tracking drums there.

Here's my starting point:

http://www.summerwood.com/products/home-studios/urban-studio.html

I'm going to build one of these on my property, 10x10 size, and customize the doors/windows (I only need a front door, for example, and small windows to let in light/air.) This is by far the most cost effective option I've seen and it's very customizable, the reviews have been very good, it's all made in Canada, etc.

What I need you guys' advice on is some of the inner details, most notably I want to make it reasonably soundproof so that I don't piss anyone in my neighborhood. Anyone here have experience with Auralex Sheetblok, for example, is it as good as they say it is?

Also, do you guys have any general insights on best practices, things to avoid, etc. for this kind of project? I'm hiring a licensed contractor to do the build, but I will be involved every step of the way. I'm looking to begin the project in a couple of months.
 
there are some rehersal studios i soundproofed a few years ago in dublin, what we had was.

ok so there was a thick plasterboard. so we placed long wooden lats on the wall jutting (about 3-4 inches from the wall. then we filled them with fiberglass (that shit in the attic etc. we have it in ireland, ur prob a yankie so get something real dense) jam it into the wall. ok then you know partitions that are made of sponge and they have a kind of rough nylon material covering them? we got some of that material and staple gunned it onto the latts covering up the fiber glass. then we got very thin lats and nailed it over the staples to hide the mess.

this is one of the rooms we worked on. its a lil hard to see from the pic but hopefully you get the idea. and it works perfect. (well for there it did anyway)

perhaps use even more fiberglass shit and stuff it up more if your walls aint too think.

rehearsals.jpg


do it like this...then cover up the fibreglass with cloth and staple it to the latts. then put more thin lats over where you see staples with small neat nails. it will look great. trust me.

DSC00404.JPG
 
I would stay away from the auralex if I were you. They look good and certainly do what they say, but you can get the same results with diy materials a fraction of the cost.
I've said it pretty often lately, but head on over to the John Sayer forum and read everything that's been said about these things there.

Good luck with the studio!

-Sigurd-
 
Thanks for the advice, guys! I'm checking out the John Sayers forum now, looks cool. One of the reasons I chose the particular design is that the sloped roof avoids right angles in the ceiling, so I will probably only need bass traps in the floor corners, right? I'm looking to keep the sonic treatment as basic as possible in the beginning, and perhaps add more over time.
 
Well one important thing to try to do is make it so there are zero parallel surfaces in the room, but that of course is easier said than done!
 
The issue of parallel walls/surfaces is very different when it comes to live and control rooms. It's true that you don't want paralell surfaces in a live room, but in a control room you want to achieve the best possible stereo image. That is achieved by actually having parallel walls with the proper treatment.

Seriously, buy Rod Gervais book. It's called build it like the pros if I remember correctly.

-Sigurd-
 
That will be pretty much imposible to soundproof properly unfortunatly, because the walls won't be thick enough to surport the extra mass needed for soundproofing. That auralex stuff works ok, but is very expensive for what it is.

If you need to go for one of those structures then go for the one up from it, 10x12 because you will have terrible room problems with 4 walls of the same length.

For treatment, build as many "superchunk" bass traps as you can. Treat first reflection points as well with DIY rockwool panels, and build a cloud to cover the ceiling.

Joe
 
Although looking at the plans you could probably stuff insulation between the studs that are already there and add a layer or 2 of plasterboard, but it depends whether the structure could take the weight.

Joe
 
The only way to soundproof is to have mass and air space.
The more mass better, and the larger the air gap better.

You can check my thread about my studio construction. I am very happy with the soundproof of it. I can work at any time of the day/night. And this is a room inside my house.
I have my 3 year old daughters sleeping on the room above the studio room without any problem. :)
Although I can be watching TV at normal volume at night ant they have no problem to sleep. :cool:
 
Thanks for all the input, guys! I may go with 10x12, but I can't go any larger than that for budget and space reasons. I'm not expecting it to be perfectly soundproof, I just want to dampen things enough to where I can work at all hours at typical mix and tracking levels without bugging anybody. That's actually already possible in my house, which has the worst insulation in the world, so any amount of insulation and treatment will be a massive step up, I'm just researching my options at this point so I can make the best decisions for my needs and budget.

As for security concerns, I will be putting in a security system as well as WiFi motion sensor cameras that upload images to a remote FTP server. I have full insurance coverage as well. I've ordered the Gervais book on Amazon tonight, looking forward to reading it. I'm a total n00b when it comes to sonic treatment so I'm going to be learning as much as I can, as well as consulting a couple of friends locally who do professional sonic treatment.
 
10x10 seems REALLY small. I have a 10x11 or so mixing room and it's gets stuffed really fast, and I do not track in it...And, IMO, to get these pre-built cabins up to snuff in terms of treatment/isolation/whathaveyou, you will be shrinking the interior even more. I'd seriously consider a larger cabin.

As far as that Auralex sheetblock is concerned, I think it works, but I don't know how many products are on the market that are cheaper or better, there may be a few.

I consulted with a band for a mixing project, and I visited their practice/recording space. It was in the drummers garage and he had converted it to a nice space (roughly 20x24 I'd say). They used 2 layers of that exterior building styrofoam, with a layer of that Auralex soundblock in between, and then painted the styrofoam. They had built rolling "cabinets" that once lined up, covered the entire length of the garage, sealing off the big garage door. Each of the cabinets was covered in the rigid styrofoam as well. They had the cabinets rigged so they locked together to make the 4th wall, and then they locked to the side walls, too. Plus, they could use the big cabinets for storage...Granted, you could ding up the styrofoam REALLY easily, but the paint provided a small bit of hardening and protection. But, for no more than they did, it worked extremely well.
 
My existing room (a very small bedroom) is about 10x11 and a lot of it is wasted space right now and random junk that has no business being in my studio, gear I still need to sell off that I don't use anymore, etc. I do a lot of my work in the box or with rack gear, and I have a Studio RTA Producer's station with tons of currently unused rackspaces in it, so I'm good to go as far as space.
 
Jackal_Strain said:
The issue of parallel walls/surfaces is very different when it comes to live and control rooms. It's true that you don't want paralell surfaces in a live room, but in a control room you want to achieve the best possible stereo image. That is achieved by actually having parallel walls with the proper treatment.

Seriously, buy Rod Gervais book. It's called build it like the pros if I remember correctly.

-Sigurd-
Click to expand...

I disagree with this, there are plenty of ways to design a control room with no parallel surfaces that still maintains a symmetrical layout...

87339769.Ip3ywY94.iso6.gif
 
before I settled on that option I would get an estimate from a contractor to build one from scratch. as someone mentioned, I think you can get all of the material for less than that kit costs and then you'll be able to customize it easier.
 
i´d say u should spent a wealthy amount of time @johnsayers forum before making decisions...i know i hven´t said much but i feel this is the best advice.
Also 10x10 is not an ideal space, cuboid is not good as i supose u know.
 
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