Wolfe Amplification Hellfire- Have a quick listen

Figured since I'm still waiting on parts to come in, I'd build the headshell.

Solid oak hardwood, box joints all around, 3/4" thick. Screw plywood, I spare no expense. My 4x12 will be made of solid oak boards also, on the sides/top/bottom. Baffle and rear will be Baltic birch of course.

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Great. What did you use to do the joints?

Template and router! Works perfect.

This one to be exact- http://www.generaltools.com/products/ez-pro-dovetail-jig__860.aspx

I really wanted to do through dove tail joints, but that jig I have doesn't allow you to make them in any wood over 1/2".
And a jig that would allow me to do it would cost me over $100. Not really a necessity so screw it. Box joints give me plenty of gluing area and will be strong as hell.
 
I kinda looked into the rules a bit, since I;m not a 'big' company I think I'm still allowed to slide through the ROHS bullcrap. It runs off of a percentage of parts in the product that are compliant, and I only have like one or 2 components that don't fit the bill.

So they may be able to head overseas after all.

You didn't read the RoHS regs carefully enough. All parts must be compliant. It's the amount of each restricted substance which is permitted under a certain percentage. And that's not per part, it's per piece of homogeneous material within the part.

I believe different countries within the EU have different laws about how RoHS compliance is verified. Within the UK a manufacturer has to keep evidence of due diligence in ensuring that all parts are RoHS compliant, I've no idea if other countries require third-party verification.

You also need to CE mark before it's legal to put on the EU market.

To legally CE mark you must safety test to EN60065 to comply with the Low Voltage Directive

You must also EMC test. EN55013 is the domestic equipment emissions standard, EN55103-1 is the professional equipment immunity standard. There's also a few other EMC standards regarding mains harmonics/flicker, ESD and so on.

Once testing is complete you must assemble technical documentation detailing the results and the construction methods as relevant to the regulations, and the Tech Docs must be retained within the EU by a representative of the manufacturer. You must also draw up a Declaration of Conformity, also to be retained within the EU. These documents must be made available to an enforcement authority if they so request.

I am not a legal expert and this account of the requirements is not exhaustive.

On the one hand then, compliance testing is damn expensive and time consuming.

On the other, if no enforcement authority ever asks to see the docs it's a bit like you didn't need to go to all that expense.

On the third hand, if they do ask and you didn't test there's not just hefty fines, there's prison sentences as well. Even if the risk is small, the hazard is great. :erk:

Do I gather the US system is a little more relaxed?
 
You didn't read the RoHS regs carefully enough. All parts must be compliant. It's the amount of each restricted substance which is permitted under a certain percentage. And that's not per part, it's per piece of homogeneous material within the part.

I believe different countries within the EU have different laws about how RoHS compliance is verified. Within the UK a manufacturer has to keep evidence of due diligence in ensuring that all parts are RoHS compliant, I've no idea if other countries require third-party verification.

You also need to CE mark before it's legal to put on the EU market.

To legally CE mark you must safety test to EN60065 to comply with the Low Voltage Directive

You must also EMC test. EN55013 is the domestic equipment emissions standard, EN55103-1 is the professional equipment immunity standard. There's also a few other EMC standards regarding mains harmonics/flicker, ESD and so on.

Once testing is complete you must assemble technical documentation detailing the results and the construction methods as relevant to the regulations, and the Tech Docs must be retained within the EU by a representative of the manufacturer. You must also draw up a Declaration of Conformity, also to be retained within the EU. These documents must be made available to an enforcement authority if they so request.

I am not a legal expert and this account of the requirements is not exhaustive.

On the one hand then, compliance testing is damn expensive and time consuming.

On the other, if no enforcement authority ever asks to see the docs it's a bit like you didn't need to go to all that expense.

On the third hand, if they do ask and you didn't test there's not just hefty fines, there's prison sentences as well. Even if the risk is small, the hazard is great. :erk:

Do I gather the US system is a little more relaxed?

Yeah I definitely need to look into it more, but for the time being I'm not too concerned with it. I'm just a one man show right now, I'm not Mesa or Peavey :)
 
BTW the carbon fiber board? That idea is toast. Mike from DAR amps had hinted to me that the boards are conductive. I ran downstairs and checked, and he is 100% correct. So he saved me a lot of heartache.

Only bad part is that I'm out $50 worth of carbon fiber and $50 worth of turrets. Kinda sucks I suppose. So standard black turret board it will be.
 
Yeah, it's a type of finger joint technically. The term box joint is used since its used so often to make boxes. Technically, this is a true finger joint, which is how my cab will be assembled-

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Hey just wanted to get some advice from the actually people who will be using/buying my amps.

In terms of warranty, would do you guys see as a fair amount of time? I was thinking 5 years, so long as you are the original owners. I think that that is pretty generous, seeing as how any defects in parts, or any mistake done by me would come out long before that. I think places like Peavey, Mesa, Fender, etc do around 1 or 2 years. Prime time for power tubes to go bad and take out other parts with them.

I know another company out there does a lifetime warranty, but I don't see that as being feasible or even worth it, since most people don't hold on to an amp for that long of a time.
 
How does this look for a front design? Its just going to be a few pieces of steel welded together, along with some hex-perforated aluminum. All going to be powder coated black.

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Hey just wanted to get some advice from the actually people who will be using/buying my amps.

In terms of warranty, would do you guys see as a fair amount of time? I was thinking 5 years, so long as you are the original owners. I think that that is pretty generous, seeing as how any defects in parts, or any mistake done by me would come out long before that. I think places like Peavey, Mesa, Fender, etc do around 1 or 2 years. Prime time for power tubes to go bad and take out other parts with them.

I know another company out there does a lifetime warranty, but I don't see that as being feasible or even worth it, since most people don't hold on to an amp for that long of a time.

5 years is plenty.

Quick mock up of the whole front.

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I think the control panel takes up too much space on the front in comparison to the top portion... something about it seems off...
 
Probably won't be as noticeable with the knobs in place Mat, but I tend to agree - Eric, looks cool, but maybe a more interesting shape in the cuts? (I always loved the metal grille on Uberschalls, for example)
 
I think the control panel takes up too much space on the front in comparison to the top portion... something about it seems off...

I've been thinking the same thing. It's probably the chassis size, it's a bit odd. It's 2.5" x 24".

With the transformers on top, it takes up 7". So I made the inside of the box 7.5 inches tall. Any taller and it looks funny, so this is the shortest I could go to make it look more rectangular.

It would probably look better if the chassis was longer, say 28-29 inches, but I can only work with what's available. I have a guy that will be welding custom chassis for me, but until I get to a point of making $$$, I have to just suck it up and deal with already made shit.
 
Probably won't be as noticeable with the knobs in place Mat, but I tend to agree - Eric, looks cool, but maybe a more interesting shape in the cuts? (I always loved the metal grille on Uberschalls, for example)

I don't have any $$$ :erk:

Doing things like that requires short runs of more than 100 parts(Edit- I doubt I'll ever sell 100 of these in my lifetime). I can't afford it. Believe me, I've had some great ideas, but until I start selling amps and making money, I'm stuck with home depot and lowes materials. :lol:
 
I don't have any $$$ :erk:

Doing things like that requires short runs of more than 100 parts(Edit- I doubt I'll ever sell 100 of these in my lifetime). I can't afford it. Believe me, I've had some great ideas, but until I start selling amps and making money, I'm stuck with home depot and lowes materials. :lol:

The way I see it, the key to making money on a product is to get it out there as quickly and be ridiculously affordable so that people can buy it...

I really want one and I think your price is more than reasonable, but it isn't feasible for me to spend that on an amp like that anytime soon... if it were less costly, sure you would make less initially, but in the end you'd end up making more by selling more units.

Starting out with a new product is always a challenge and usually takes time to catch on unless you can get it into as many hands as possible as quickly as possible.

I would recommend going that route so that you can get your name out there and shift units...

Thats just my take on it... and that is what I would do, personally.

I've been thinking the same thing. It's probably the chassis size, it's a bit odd. It's 2.5" x 24".

With the transformers on top, it takes up 7". So I made the inside of the box 7.5 inches tall. Any taller and it looks funny, so this is the shortest I could go to make it look more rectangular.

You'd be surprised what half an inch can do... come to think of it, I told my first girlfriend that same thing.