Big fan here as well, one of my favorite genres. It's probably the one genre of metal that I would consider one of the farther removed from traditional metal. Not in the sense that it isn't 'metal' or 'heavy' because it very much is, but mostly because of the structure, compositional style, and atmosphere of the genre. It is its own beast. That's for sure.
Anyway, I like a lot of bands from this genre particularly Borknagar, Emperor, Dimmu Borgir's first two albums, Celtic Frost, Arcturus, Ulver (when they were BM), Heresei, Woods of Ypres, and some other random bands I can't think of right now. But you get the idea.