Guitar Player's Thread

If the descriptions sounds identical, it probably is. If it's a difference you won't notice much anyway.

MM-04 available here: http://bmusic.com.au/prod4888.htm

Thanks Ensi. :)

And maybe it's just me, but according to EMG...

The AB (Afterburner) is a push/pull booster with up to 20dB of preset variable gain, perfect for having fun with clean overdrive and distortion. It works with both active and passive pickups, uses rail-to-rail technology, and is easy to install. If you're a lead player, the Afterburner is for you.
As opposed to...
The PA2 is a straight booster preamplifier mounted on a minitoggle switch. Perfect if you want to just plain overdrive the input of your amp for distortion. It has a trim pot so you can preset the amount of boost up to an additional 20 dB. The PA2 will also work with passive pickups.
 
Alright, so I good friend of mine is actually selling me his Ltd. RR24 (looks like I'll join the not so limited). And he's doing it for a great price, that I already know I'll take, but there are a few things I was wondering about...

Before this, I really wanted a J2SP, but we all know how hard to find those are. So this is the next best thing. Besides, he had already swapped in gold hardware and a Schaller. Plus, he had a PA-2 installed. And the logo is now white, and looks like it always has been. Now, I don't even mind the fact that that the inlays are upside down. I kind of like the fact that they make it look different from the rest. But two things worry/bother me.

The inlays are still gross, cheap, MOTO. I heard that it's possible to change the material of inlays if they're the same shape. Not cheap, but certainly not as lucrative as completely changing them, where you might as well get a new guitar. Does anyone know how much it would cost to replace the Moto sharkfins with MoP?

and secondly, I heard that the J2SP is better made. I know it came with better hardware and such, and the aforementioned inlays, but is the guitar itself really significantly better made? Or are they pretty much the same in terms of the woods and craftsmanship...

Finally, I wanted to apologize for asking so many questions lately. Especially directed toward specific people :p

Thank you again, for everything.
 
Alright, so I good friend of mine is actually selling me his Ltd. RR24 (looks like I'll join the not so limited). And he's doing it for a great price, that I already know I'll take, but there are a few things I was wondering about...

Before this, I really wanted a J2SP, but we all know how hard to find those are. So this is the next best thing. Besides, he had already swapped in gold hardware and a Schaller. Plus, he had a PA-2 installed. And the logo is now white, and looks like it always has been. Now, I don't even mind the fact that that the inlays are upside down. I kind of like the fact that they make it look different from the rest. But two things worry/bother me.

The inlays are still gross, cheap, MOTO. I heard that it's possible to change the material of inlays if they're the same shape. Not cheap, but certainly not as lucrative as completely changing them, where you might as well get a new guitar. Does anyone know how much it would cost to replace the Moto sharkfins with MoP?

and secondly, I heard that the J2SP is better made. I know it came with better hardware and such, and the aforementioned inlays, but is the guitar itself really significantly better made? Or are they pretty much the same in terms of the woods and craftsmanship...

Finally, I wanted to apologize for asking so many questions lately. Especially directed toward specific people :p

Thank you again, for everything.

This is the holy grail of guitar players, we will help:kickass:

I would think swapping the inlays would be too much work and/or money tbh, I don't have much to say about that matter.

My J2SP isn't perfect, there is some sloppiness on the binding 12-24 fret and some other very minor issues.

I don't think there's a noteable difference between RR24-J2SP, it will pretty much be the same. If he has already a gold schaller and gold hardware + PA-2 and it's a good price, and you have a shit guitar now, go for it!:)
 
Speaking of the RR24, i was just on their site and i noticed, they arent listed as Pro series any more, bumped down to MG it seems

iirc they used to be Pro, right?
 
The inlays are still gross, cheap, MOTO. I heard that it's possible to change the material of inlays if they're the same shape. Not cheap, but certainly not as lucrative as completely changing them, where you might as well get a new guitar. Does anyone know how much it would cost to replace the Moto sharkfins with MoP?

I think these would fit: http://www.luthiersupply.com/SharkFinpage.html#SharkFin

and again, it will require a complete refret...and sanding of the fretboard after it is re-inlaid.
 
Speaking of the RR24, i was just on their site and i noticed, they arent listed as Pro series any more, bumped down to MG it seems

iirc they used to be Pro, right?

Yeah but it was at the old site. It's still a "Pro series" i guess. MG just stands for that they got EMG Pickups. Before you could find RR24 in both MG and Pro series i think.
 
Thanks Naz and Ensi. :)

And those inlays look just like the Jackson ones, to me. I guess I'll have to try and contact them to see if they really are the exact same size and shape.

I'm not sure it would even necessarily require a refret. I've heard of players taking out crappy plastic dot inlays and putting in new ones of a different material, which would essentially be the same thing. You would just have to be more careful since the shape is much bigger. Nonetheless, I'll have to try and see what a few shops/luthiers say about the price and process, unless anyone else has personal experience with something like this. No point in doing it if it's not done right.
 
yeah the plastic inlays on the rr24 are a serious let down to me. I would have bought one for sure if they were MOP

I'm still considering getting the white one someday, and switching the black hardware with my chrome hardware on my soloist :)


I still have a mega boner for this see-thru white w/ maple top soloist!!!!

g15.jpg
 
That looks classy, I like it.

And I heard they were discontinuing the white RR24, but I don't know if that's true.
 
I'm seriously thinking about selling my GP-1000 / peavey classic 50/50 and getting one of these babes

dscn_24720.jpg



(and two GP-1000s just sold on ebay for 500 bucks each ahaha)
 
Well both setups are great no doubt.

Is there any thing in particular you don't like about the GP, Peavey setup though?
And do you have the possibility to actually hear the M-1000? :rofl:
 
Alright, so I just found and read a guide (made by a professional luthier) on the process of removing and changing inlays.

Honestly, it doesn't seem TOO hard. At least assuming that the ones above are in fact the same size and shape as the Jackson ones. I might even be able to do it myself, actually.

What it basically says is to (very carefully) use acetone to remove the old inlays. Then, you get rid of all the old glue left. After that, you just use some good epoxy to set the new ones in place and make sure they're level. After the glue sets, you just use a file and fine sandpaper to get ride of the excess. Done!

It sounds relatively simple enough...

Of course, if they aren't the same size and shape, I'm pretty much fucked and probably won't bother.