Having seen them play from behind the stage (or side-stage) a few times, there definitely is no 3rd guitar being played live.
They use backtracks, just like they've always done for the synth parts as well.
Guitar Player's Thread
- Thread starter Blindfold
- Start date
Having seen them play from behind the stage (or side-stage) a few times, there definitely is no 3rd guitar being played live.
They use backtracks, just like they've always done for the synth parts as well.
Lowberg
Member
Apparently my fingers absorb some of the metal on the strings and it leaves some gray stains on my maple fretboard. You just rub it off with water and paper?
Edit: Or is it the eben wood inlays that stain the maple, can't remember if it's only on those frets. Have they forgotten the laquer altogether from my fretboard or what's going on? This is a problem that should be talked about, it affects resale value if nothing else! I for one wouldn't buy a guitar that looks like somebody wiped his ass on it, unless there was a dramatic decrease in price tag. The idea of maple is to look clean imo. It's not the end of the world but I just read those cosmetic damages are permanent as they're impossible to wipe off.
What about use of lemon oil on maple? I read somewhere maple is softer than ebony, but it was unclear if that's why you should or should not use lemon oil on it.
Edit: Or is it the eben wood inlays that stain the maple, can't remember if it's only on those frets. Have they forgotten the laquer altogether from my fretboard or what's going on? This is a problem that should be talked about, it affects resale value if nothing else! I for one wouldn't buy a guitar that looks like somebody wiped his ass on it, unless there was a dramatic decrease in price tag. The idea of maple is to look clean imo. It's not the end of the world but I just read those cosmetic damages are permanent as they're impossible to wipe off.
What about use of lemon oil on maple? I read somewhere maple is softer than ebony, but it was unclear if that's why you should or should not use lemon oil on it.
T3h_Killjoy
Back to fuck shit up
Damn man. With Jumbo frets you don't even touch the fingerboard, i you do - you're playing is fucked up. And you shouldn't use lemon oil on maple.
Maybe my playing is fucked up too but I'm googling it out and a lot of people have the problem. I'll try common sense cleaning first, before going for steel wool and lighter fluid and some shit they're advicing. Maybe chainsaw will do the trick? But yeah I thought so lemon oil is for ebony but not maple.. and yes I wash my hands with soap before touching that guitar.
I dont know why you throw in ebony because when it comes to fretboards maple and rosewood is the most popular stuff but I clean my guitars with
that stuff (I got maple(MY FAV WOOD,SO BRIGHT SOUNDING) and rosewood):
http://shop.rall-online.net/WebRoot...8/28BB/2B29/popup_images_image_10020020_1.jpg
the ''0000'' version. (haha but be careful and cover up the pickups
)
if your fretboard is lacquered(which is often the case when it comes to maple ), this is not a good idea though. Anyways, that should help then:
http://www.thomann.de/de/planet_waves_pwmpc_microfasertuch.htm
About the oil thing.. The wood under the finish doenst need any care, you can use oil though (some of my mates claim that this is great but I always use oil (not lemon though) on my rosewood fretboards)
edit:
steel wool is awesome on not-finished fretboards.
Dont be afraid, but since yours is finished,drop the idea. Though I hate it when fags go like ''OOHHHH STEEELL WOOL PEOPLE ARE SO MAD n CRAZY ADVERTISING THAT SHIT''
that stuff (I got maple(MY FAV WOOD,SO BRIGHT SOUNDING) and rosewood):
http://shop.rall-online.net/WebRoot...8/28BB/2B29/popup_images_image_10020020_1.jpg
the ''0000'' version. (haha but be careful and cover up the pickups
)if your fretboard is lacquered(which is often the case when it comes to maple ), this is not a good idea though. Anyways, that should help then:
http://www.thomann.de/de/planet_waves_pwmpc_microfasertuch.htm
About the oil thing.. The wood under the finish doenst need any care, you can use oil though (some of my mates claim that this is great but I always use oil (not lemon though) on my rosewood fretboards)
edit:
steel wool is awesome on not-finished fretboards.
Dont be afraid, but since yours is finished,drop the idea. Though I hate it when fags go like ''OOHHHH STEEELL WOOL PEOPLE ARE SO MAD n CRAZY ADVERTISING THAT SHIT''
So no need for care for the maple wood, but oil is alright, just not lemon oil. I feel like it doesn't have lacquer on it, if it does it's an indistinct layer. Steel wool sounds hazardous yeah, but maybe with fast paced wiping it'll stay slick. I think I'll first try pvc I got for cleaning up sunglasses. But only when I change the strings.
"An "easy" way to cut down on wear is to use more guitars and spread out the wear. It works but it ain't cheap!"
Einstein.
"Mineral spirits (petroleum) - same stuff as oil, just lighter molecular weight. Folks in the wood finishing business use it ALL the time."
Interesting point.
"An "easy" way to cut down on wear is to use more guitars and spread out the wear. It works but it ain't cheap!"
Einstein.
"Mineral spirits (petroleum) - same stuff as oil, just lighter molecular weight. Folks in the wood finishing business use it ALL the time."
Interesting point.
Well yeah it sounds pretty nasty, but you really need to buy the 0000 wool and nothing (bad) happens to your (rosewood) fretboard but I would never ever use it on finished maple fretboards and most people even say dont use oil on the finished fretboards bu as I dont own any finished fretboard so I cant say anything about them
anyway, I dont use lemon oil, but this stuff http://www.rockinger.com/index.php?cat=WG182&product=09035&sid3=f7d43a5073794bb314ef73a50f986c9b
and they say its for rosewood and ebony fretboards but not for finished maple... what about unfinished maple?
anyway, I dont use lemon oil, but this stuff http://www.rockinger.com/index.php?cat=WG182&product=09035&sid3=f7d43a5073794bb314ef73a50f986c9b
and they say its for rosewood and ebony fretboards but not for finished maple... what about unfinished maple?
Yep, it's the inlays. Pic of someone's guitar with the same problem:
Now I understand why the RR24M is sold for 850€ while the regular RR24 (ebony) is 1150€ !! Mystery solved. Everybody was wondering why the maple fretboard makes it 300€ cheaper. Don't know if this is typical with a maple fretboard / ebony inlay mix, maybe they just figured they made some mistake in the production and had to sell these cheaper.
Had I known this, I might have considered the more expensive ebony. Not really nice to "cheat" with guitars people like to save up to and buy to last for life. Maybe the inlays are made of dyed wood, or delrin (same as the guitar picks). Or just some chemical reaction like chlorine from your home water you use to wash hands, IDK maybe I drink so much booze it makes my sweat acidic and the inlays bleed.
Now I understand why the RR24M is sold for 850€ while the regular RR24 (ebony) is 1150€ !! Mystery solved. Everybody was wondering why the maple fretboard makes it 300€ cheaper. Don't know if this is typical with a maple fretboard / ebony inlay mix, maybe they just figured they made some mistake in the production and had to sell these cheaper.
Had I known this, I might have considered the more expensive ebony. Not really nice to "cheat" with guitars people like to save up to and buy to last for life. Maybe the inlays are made of dyed wood, or delrin (same as the guitar picks). Or just some chemical reaction like chlorine from your home water you use to wash hands, IDK maybe I drink so much booze it makes my sweat acidic and the inlays bleed.
Dude, ebony is just more expensive wood, keep your speculations in the ontopic section.
I really like the tone of a maple fretboard. It's just that those fretboards are almost always finished and hence require a different way of caretaking. Oil may colour your fretboard but if its finished, theres no need for oil...so wat..
I really like the tone of a maple fretboard. It's just that those fretboards are almost always finished and hence require a different way of caretaking. Oil may colour your fretboard but if its finished, theres no need for oil...so wat..
Do not use lemon oil on the maple. I repeat...do no use it on maple boards.
I think the problem is that the black inlays on the RR24M are made of ebony...or at least that is what I read at some point before I bought mine. So it rubs off onto the maple in those spots. Mine does the same thing yet the frets without the inlays stay clean. I just mix a little soap with water and clean the board with that...works pretty well. If it's really nasty I take a tooth brush to the board with the soapy water. The tooth brush gets into the wood deeper than just a cloth or paper towel.
I for one prefer unfinished maple boards, but they do get dirty a lot easier. I took 0000 grade steel wool to my board and took all the finish of so now it is raw. It gets dirtier easier, but now I can just clean it with the steel wool everytime I change my strings and it looks great.
If you use something like mineral spirits or lighter fluid be very careful not to get it on the binding or any painted surface as it could discolor the paint or even undue the glue that is holding the binding on.
Dirty boards just mean you actually play guitar. You can always tell what patterns someone plays on a maple board just by how dirty they are in certain places. Adds character...I wouldn't be too concerned about it.
I think the problem is that the black inlays on the RR24M are made of ebony...or at least that is what I read at some point before I bought mine. So it rubs off onto the maple in those spots. Mine does the same thing yet the frets without the inlays stay clean. I just mix a little soap with water and clean the board with that...works pretty well. If it's really nasty I take a tooth brush to the board with the soapy water. The tooth brush gets into the wood deeper than just a cloth or paper towel.
I for one prefer unfinished maple boards, but they do get dirty a lot easier. I took 0000 grade steel wool to my board and took all the finish of so now it is raw. It gets dirtier easier, but now I can just clean it with the steel wool everytime I change my strings and it looks great.
If you use something like mineral spirits or lighter fluid be very careful not to get it on the binding or any painted surface as it could discolor the paint or even undue the glue that is holding the binding on.
Dirty boards just mean you actually play guitar. You can always tell what patterns someone plays on a maple board just by how dirty they are in certain places. Adds character...I wouldn't be too concerned about it.
That's exactly what vintage Fenders look like and they're fetching tens of thousands of dollars.
Sanding it out is slowly eroding your neck, not bad if you want to end up with a scalloped neck.
Exactly, it's part of unfinished woods character, you just live with it.
The Washburn N2 has an unfinished natural body.
This is what they look like when you buy them.
It ends up with arm and body sweat/grime soaked into it.
s
marfal66
Member
Especially ugly, the Hetfield Truckster, the scratches/wear is there from brand new, no need to earn them for yourself.
s
Derpsicle
Member
Plenty of people have used lemon oil on maple necks without a problem, there are 2 types, one is made from the citrus - avoid this one as it's a solvent like turpentine, the other is lemon scented mineral oil, very similar to baby oil just with a different smell.
There are for and against for using it, same with tung oil.
Also you can use Tru-oil then tru-oil beeswax after applying the oil.
I imagine any oil will seep into the wood of an unfinished neck and colour/stain it eventually.
I used linseed oil on an oak bokken (training sword) it started off white and soon turned yellow with brown streaks along the grain, years later it's now brown with black streaks, it looks pretty cool.
I've also heard you can use a pencil eraser on maple necks, not sure if it's the rubbery or gritty ones.
s
There are for and against for using it, same with tung oil.
Also you can use Tru-oil then tru-oil beeswax after applying the oil.
I imagine any oil will seep into the wood of an unfinished neck and colour/stain it eventually.
I used linseed oil on an oak bokken (training sword) it started off white and soon turned yellow with brown streaks along the grain, years later it's now brown with black streaks, it looks pretty cool.
I've also heard you can use a pencil eraser on maple necks, not sure if it's the rubbery or gritty ones.
s
Lowberg
Member
