Guitar Player's Thread
- Thread starter Blindfold
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Ensi
CAT WITH FUKKEN PODS
Don't exactly know, I do a bit more to make sure it doesn't slip out or something (happened a few time on classical guitars we've had in).
I still find it hard to accurately calculate how many winds it'll end up at. I usually just take 2-3 winds on the 3 thick strings and 1 or 2 more on the lighter ones.
I still find it hard to accurately calculate how many winds it'll end up at. I usually just take 2-3 winds on the 3 thick strings and 1 or 2 more on the lighter ones.
OMG that 1st pic is rediculous.
Ensi....yours looks great! Do you always do one wrap over where the string goes through the tuner? Read that it creates almost a knot to keep strings in tune better.
I always go to the tuning peg with the string I want to tune and then pull past it till the next one and cut the excess off. Gives you about 5 or so wraps on each peg. (non floyd guitars)
If it has a floyd, I put the strings in through the tuners and pull it towards the bridge, cut string where it meets the back of the floyd(the pegs that you tighten to hold the string in), insert string into bridge and tighten said peg, then tune string. Since the ball is at the tuner and the other end is already locked down at the floyd it makes a string change very very easy.
Just my way of doing it.....does anyone else do it this way? Always looking for faster methods.
Muffin.... I always do 5 or so wraps that way if the string breaks at the bridge(floyd guitar), you can always unwind a little and still get some use out of the string if you don't have a spare around. On non floyds you couldn't really do that though, so not sure if there is......in my head I tell myself more wraps = more string tension, but I don't think it is true.
Ensi....yours looks great! Do you always do one wrap over where the string goes through the tuner? Read that it creates almost a knot to keep strings in tune better.
I always go to the tuning peg with the string I want to tune and then pull past it till the next one and cut the excess off. Gives you about 5 or so wraps on each peg. (non floyd guitars)
If it has a floyd, I put the strings in through the tuners and pull it towards the bridge, cut string where it meets the back of the floyd(the pegs that you tighten to hold the string in), insert string into bridge and tighten said peg, then tune string. Since the ball is at the tuner and the other end is already locked down at the floyd it makes a string change very very easy.
Just my way of doing it.....does anyone else do it this way? Always looking for faster methods.
Muffin.... I always do 5 or so wraps that way if the string breaks at the bridge(floyd guitar), you can always unwind a little and still get some use out of the string if you don't have a spare around. On non floyds you couldn't really do that though, so not sure if there is......in my head I tell myself more wraps = more string tension, but I don't think it is true.
Ensi
CAT WITH FUKKEN PODS
Thanks man! Yeah I always wrap one wind over, and yes I do believe it kind of "squeezes" the inserted string shut since the tuner mechanism is kind of bent inwards (if you know what I mean). It's not a dead straight piece of metal.
And i've heard about that method, although I always just do it the standard way. The point on doing alot of winds in case of a break at the bridge is a very good idea, since as you said you can just loosen it and insert it again.
Don't think more winds=more pressure. It should be simple physics, but I don't know physics.
And i've heard about that method, although I always just do it the standard way. The point on doing alot of winds in case of a break at the bridge is a very good idea, since as you said you can just loosen it and insert it again.
Don't think more winds=more pressure. It should be simple physics, but I don't know physics.
Conti
Chief Conti
- Jan 21, 2006
- 4,314
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It can be explained simply. The vibrating string is what really matters. You can put as much string as you like around the tuner but the only part that actually matters is what comes from the tuner to the nut, where the vibration of the string starts. It doesnt matter what goes on behind the nut because the string starts at the nut.
The Emptier
t3h b3aSt0rZ
+1.
One thing I do different to most is I wind my E & A string tuners clockwise to tighten, the rest anti-clockwise due to the Jackson headstock angle.
The reason is to get the strings with the least amount of angle from nut to tuners.
If you look at a Fender strat the strings from bridge to nut to tuner are a perfect straight line.
On Gibsons, Jacksons, etc. the strings bend at the nut to the tuner.
The less angle the less likelihood of snapping a string at the nut.
I have a locking nut so it shouldn't make a difference but I'm pedantic.
Edit: also if you have to unwind a bit after snapping at the bridge, there's less kink in the bit of string that's now just below the nut.
s
If your string snaps at the nut, there's something wrong with the nut 
Unless you're trying to hit high G-G#-A, where the strings you'll be working with are so hair thin and fragile that any excess angle/stress points can fuck shit up. But those high tunings aren't for the average joe either way.
There's apparently a ton of things happening beyond the nut and bridge, depending on what kind of guitar you're rocking and such. One of the most common things is having the strings behind the nut ringing out, which is why I have foam there to keep them from doing that. Lately I've been hearing rumours that the break angle of the string at the bridge and behind the nut can affect the attack(sharper angle -> tighter/brighter attack), which I'll be testing on my telecaster whenever I can be arsed. I have a spare string tree from a floyd laying around that I could use to force the strings down. I have a hunch that most of these hypothesis' that float around on the internet are probably either false, or so subtle you wouldn't even notice it. But I'll give the string angle thing a shot, who knows. Not that the tele is spongy in attack anyways, lol
Unless you're trying to hit high G-G#-A, where the strings you'll be working with are so hair thin and fragile that any excess angle/stress points can fuck shit up. But those high tunings aren't for the average joe either way.There's apparently a ton of things happening beyond the nut and bridge, depending on what kind of guitar you're rocking and such. One of the most common things is having the strings behind the nut ringing out, which is why I have foam there to keep them from doing that. Lately I've been hearing rumours that the break angle of the string at the bridge and behind the nut can affect the attack(sharper angle -> tighter/brighter attack), which I'll be testing on my telecaster whenever I can be arsed. I have a spare string tree from a floyd laying around that I could use to force the strings down. I have a hunch that most of these hypothesis' that float around on the internet are probably either false, or so subtle you wouldn't even notice it. But I'll give the string angle thing a shot, who knows. Not that the tele is spongy in attack anyways, lol
If your string snaps at the nut, there's something wrong with the nut
I've never had a string snap at the nut, not to say it can't happen though.
I guess if you use the trem a lot it would be a weak point.
The thing with using the trem on a Fender is the strings pass through the nut so freely they act like a file and saw through the nut hence why the Yngwie model had a brass nut and a few Fender models came out with a roller bearing nut for a while there.
Even if the string is straight there's still the angle downwards at the nut.
Yeah as for brighter attack - probably only a dog could hear it but there are some people than can pick out such things. My amp builder was telling me about a guy who could tell if he was using a long lead or a short lead to the amp, he had him turn around and randomly selected between short and long and the guy picked it every time.
s
Works0fheart
Active Member
I've been thinking about buying either this
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guit...izzo-7-string-electric-guitar/584451000643074
or this
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/b.c.-rich-chuck-schuldiner-tribute-electric-guitar
I played the Chuck one at Guitar Center the other day, they only want 800 for it. It sounds amazing to say the least. I would be leaning more towards the 7 string one if it weren't for the body wood and pickups :/
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guit...izzo-7-string-electric-guitar/584451000643074
or this
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/b.c.-rich-chuck-schuldiner-tribute-electric-guitar
I played the Chuck one at Guitar Center the other day, they only want 800 for it. It sounds amazing to say the least. I would be leaning more towards the 7 string one if it weren't for the body wood and pickups :/
Not a huge fan of BC Rich, but love the shape....main reason I bought my Xiphos.
You gonna get rid of your RR?
Out of those 2 I like the Rizzo sig better, as it has the better bridge IMO and is Mahogany.
I bet both guitars play equally well so really can't go wrong.
You gonna get rid of your RR?
Out of those 2 I like the Rizzo sig better, as it has the better bridge IMO and is Mahogany.
I bet both guitars play equally well so really can't go wrong.
Works0fheart
Active Member
I'm usually very biased when it comes to BC Rich as well, I've never cared for them, but I've been a big fan of Chucks playing and sound for awhile so I had to try the guitar out. I ran it through the 6505+ combo amp that Ensi was talking about a page or two back, just to get an idea of how it would sound with my amp. Amazing was the impression I got, I'm going to attribute most of it to the X2 though actually. But yeah, it's definitely a very smooth playing guitar and the neck isn't too thick, which I like alot. I also have been really wanting a guitar that is Neck through without a floyd rose for a bit just to have something that I can quickly change tunings on when I feel like it.
The Rizzo guitar looks great and all, and I'm sure it is, but I might just as well get a Xiphos, over both guitars actually. Samash in Winterpark has this amazing red one with an X2 in it for like 600 dollars I think. It's neck through and in amazing condition. The only thing I would change is I would sand the paint away and do what was discussed a few pages ago.
The Rizzo guitar looks great and all, and I'm sure it is, but I might just as well get a Xiphos, over both guitars actually. Samash in Winterpark has this amazing red one with an X2 in it for like 600 dollars I think. It's neck through and in amazing condition. The only thing I would change is I would sand the paint away and do what was discussed a few pages ago.
Yea, if you like the Ibanez necks(I do) you can't go wrong with the Xiphos. I just got mine off craigslist for $350.00...what a steal. It plays great and its Mahogany which I always have liked Les Pauls growl(mahogany) so its nice to be able to get that growl with one of my guitars. It's just a totally different sound compared to my Alder and guitars.
I still have not sanded mine or really done anything with it besides a string change, cleaning, and set up.....as a matter of fact...I'm gonna go play it now...it has been a while.
You can't go wrong with any of them so good luck....just figure you could save some money if you went with a Xiphos over the other two.
Did you ever get your BK p/u?
I still have not sanded mine or really done anything with it besides a string change, cleaning, and set up.....as a matter of fact...I'm gonna go play it now...it has been a while.
You can't go wrong with any of them so good luck....just figure you could save some money if you went with a Xiphos over the other two.
Did you ever get your BK p/u?
Works0fheart
Active Member
Yeah, I got the pickup over a month ago, I've just been too lazy to install it I'll take a pic of it here in a few and post it.
But yeah, I'll probably just get the Xiphos.
I'll take a pic of it here in a few and post it.But yeah, I'll probably just get the Xiphos.
eveningninja
Skull Kid
Any of you have experience with any of these pickups...
-Dimarzio Tone Zone
-Dimarzio Breed
-Seymour Duncan Alternative 8
I'm looking for a hot, aggressive, thick-sounding pickup for my Alexi-600. Something that'll bring out the lows and low-mids and chunk up its sound.
-Dimarzio Tone Zone
-Dimarzio Breed
-Seymour Duncan Alternative 8
I'm looking for a hot, aggressive, thick-sounding pickup for my Alexi-600. Something that'll bring out the lows and low-mids and chunk up its sound.
T3h_Killjoy
Back to fuck shit up
Nah, it's mainly for recording purposes, apparently you lose tone with long guitar leads. I can see validity in that if you had a 100 metre long lead but can the average punter pick the difference between say a < 5ft and 20 ft lead?
s
SteveMCsteve
Member
You can try the seymour duncan sh-6.
Definitely makes the chunky metal sound, but the highs might be too screechy for some people. I put it in my Edwards Arrowhead alexi, and replaced the booster with a coil tap. I rarely play the arrowhead anymore but I like it better than the EMG-HZ.
eveningninja
Skull Kid
Well, to be perfectly honest I've liked just about every pickup I've ever tried more than the HZ 
