E-bortion
Omae wa mo shindeiru
- Dec 23, 2004
- 3,508
- 4
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Modded my HRAP 3 EX:SE (fancy schmancy arcade stick) for pinball simulators such as
Pinball FX2 - xbox360, incredible game
Visual Pinball - actual recreations of pinball tables for PC built using an engine similar to CAD and utilizing real roms from actual tables, all free at www.vpforums.org
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v57/relinquishedcore/HRAP 3 Pinball Mod/
About the stick: The stick itself was about $275 stock and with extra buttons, bubbletop, and plugs about $300 all together. A "Pinball Wizard" which is essentially the same thing without an arcade stick/buttons for other games and the ability to be used on different consoles costs $300 + ridiculous shipping. The only difference is the Pinball Wizard has accelerometers which allow you to nudge the unit this emulating a real table nudge. The downside is, they don't work too well and it damages the parts a lot quicker than it would in a sturdy pinball machine. I use the arcade joystick for nudging and it works just fine.
Why?: Being a pinball veteran and enthusiast (soon to be Wizard,) Playing with a controller just wasn't cutting it and neither was sitting down to play. I took the arcade stick I use for fighters and added two buttons on the side. The only difficult part was ensuring the buttons matched up (measurements were a pain for some reason.) and that I found the perfect spot on the slope as to emulate a real table as closely as possible. Wiring was a breeze because I already had two of the buttons fitted with button plugs and the wiring from the PCB taped down. I simply attached some quick disconnects to the wires, drilled a hole through to the main enclosure, and then stripped the wires and joined them. Luckily they were the LB and RB wires so they will play on default controller configurations on all pinball games for 360 (only two are realistic enough for a community to gather around anyways.) Also, using a different view setting in game, tilting the monitor, and placing some non-slip padding on the base of it allows me to stand directly over it like I'm standing over a real cabinet. Sure it's not exactly a 100% legit virtual table (as those cost just as much as a real machine and you have to make them yourself) but it feels absolutely awesome, enough so to even invite people over to play. Considering it's portability I can also drag it wherever I go. I'm a fucking nerd. Oh, and it also works miraculously with Microsoft Game Room and Mame games.
*edit* Don't attempt it on any arcade stick unless you're comfortable with routers/dremels and their potential to melt plastic like crazy. Getting a 30mm hole to be perfect with a dremel takes a lot of experience and using a router/drill combo will usually melt the plastic around it and cause it to fold up. There's a very small margin of error allowed until you ruin the case entirely. What I did for the button was trace out a 30mm hole with a shop pencil (softer lead) and use a tungsten carbide bit and slowly followed the tracing. Initially penetrate the plastic on a low-speed and towards the center (so a jerk won't ruin it,) and turn it up as you proceed to the edges and get comfortable with handling it. Chances are you'll have to cut just a tad larger than the tracing, but too far and the button will fall through.
Pinball FX2 - xbox360, incredible game
Visual Pinball - actual recreations of pinball tables for PC built using an engine similar to CAD and utilizing real roms from actual tables, all free at www.vpforums.org
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v57/relinquishedcore/HRAP 3 Pinball Mod/
About the stick: The stick itself was about $275 stock and with extra buttons, bubbletop, and plugs about $300 all together. A "Pinball Wizard" which is essentially the same thing without an arcade stick/buttons for other games and the ability to be used on different consoles costs $300 + ridiculous shipping. The only difference is the Pinball Wizard has accelerometers which allow you to nudge the unit this emulating a real table nudge. The downside is, they don't work too well and it damages the parts a lot quicker than it would in a sturdy pinball machine. I use the arcade joystick for nudging and it works just fine.
Why?: Being a pinball veteran and enthusiast (soon to be Wizard,) Playing with a controller just wasn't cutting it and neither was sitting down to play. I took the arcade stick I use for fighters and added two buttons on the side. The only difficult part was ensuring the buttons matched up (measurements were a pain for some reason.) and that I found the perfect spot on the slope as to emulate a real table as closely as possible. Wiring was a breeze because I already had two of the buttons fitted with button plugs and the wiring from the PCB taped down. I simply attached some quick disconnects to the wires, drilled a hole through to the main enclosure, and then stripped the wires and joined them. Luckily they were the LB and RB wires so they will play on default controller configurations on all pinball games for 360 (only two are realistic enough for a community to gather around anyways.) Also, using a different view setting in game, tilting the monitor, and placing some non-slip padding on the base of it allows me to stand directly over it like I'm standing over a real cabinet. Sure it's not exactly a 100% legit virtual table (as those cost just as much as a real machine and you have to make them yourself) but it feels absolutely awesome, enough so to even invite people over to play. Considering it's portability I can also drag it wherever I go. I'm a fucking nerd. Oh, and it also works miraculously with Microsoft Game Room and Mame games.
*edit* Don't attempt it on any arcade stick unless you're comfortable with routers/dremels and their potential to melt plastic like crazy. Getting a 30mm hole to be perfect with a dremel takes a lot of experience and using a router/drill combo will usually melt the plastic around it and cause it to fold up. There's a very small margin of error allowed until you ruin the case entirely. What I did for the button was trace out a 30mm hole with a shop pencil (softer lead) and use a tungsten carbide bit and slowly followed the tracing. Initially penetrate the plastic on a low-speed and towards the center (so a jerk won't ruin it,) and turn it up as you proceed to the edges and get comfortable with handling it. Chances are you'll have to cut just a tad larger than the tracing, but too far and the button will fall through.
that game has literally been my life for almost a decade. I'm forced to play a lot of Super Street Fighter IV now though but I've already pre-ordered Marvel Vs Capcom 3 and I'm close buddies with a guy that's actually the writer for the guide, so I've my team picked out (Taskmaster/Doom/Wesker,) my unblockable setups, and 100% life combos noted before I've even played it.
I'm starting to get frustrated, as I don't have 18 hours a day like everyone else to put the required work in to improving her. Rose, Rog, Adon, Cammy, all give me trouble. The shotos don't make me bat an eye. Train Me! :Smokedev:
@ dorian and lurch. Jerry: I play Abel, Zangief, Balrog, Ryu, Akuma, Sagat, and some C. Viper. My tournament main is Abel, though. Also, yes. When 3s Online comes out, we need to get in some matches. My Yun, Ken, Akuma, and Hugo are all nasty-jap style. Also, Sakura is neat because her combos can look pretty but her normals are kind of lacking except for her crouching light kick and short tatsu/ex tatsu (hurricane kick.) She's usable, she's just not anywhere close to top-tier. If you're not a hardcore player I'd recommend going with someone else, as she takes more effort than a lot of other characters to win with. I don't know what they've done with her since the Arcade release of SSFIV:AE, though.
