Guitar Player's Thread

Seconded on every front, RR24 definitely in terms of features and build quality, if you want something more COB-ish you could shell out the extra cash for very similar Alexi-600 but you don't seem as if you're fussed about that.

I actually don't like those big arrows on the Alexi models, I prefer it pale. And of course I've read comparisons and if I get the RR24 for the same price as I would get the Alexi-600 or Jackson RR3 then of course I should get it.

I have it. It's a great guitar for it's price, sounds awesome, the floyd rose, even if it's not OMG OFR it's great and stays perfectly in tune, and you clearly love the shape and all it involves. My advice is go for it.

I'll try it today again. You have it with ebony fretboard or maple?

Wait a minute, here: http://www.thomann.de/fi/jackson_rr24m_rhoads_wh_b.htm

It's some limited run that's for 850e. What's up with this? RR24M. M for maple? Are they trying to screw me? Maple gets dirty easy. It could get all spotty like a cheetah.

They were trying to screw me because from online you can order it for 850e and get a case as bonus. Plus to the fact the guitar has been hanging on the store for some time and people have been using it. I could at least be a little business minded next time.

The RR24's have alder body, the Alexi 200 has basswood, which is heavier?

The Alexi 200 is not available in white in Finland now. I find someone selling his black Alexi 200 for 225e. I'm a little skeptic about buying used guitars.

What to do, what to do.
 
Basswood is heavier?

Can someone elaborate... If I get an Alexi 200 for 500, or an RR24 for 850... is the difference worth the money?
 
I'd definitely say so. Unless you actually try out both models and you get lucky with the Alexi 200. Basswood is a notoriously "honky" wood when you're talking cheap instruments. I think Steve Vai swears by it for some of his solo guitars, but he picks and chooses from the high end of the spectrum. A lot of low "hollow" mid range going on in cheap basswood, more often than not. A trait you'd want to avoid for a professional sounding guitar if you ask me. As with all cheaper guitars, the quality and sound of the guitar varies like the phases of the moon. Sometimes you get a worthless piece of shit, and other times you get a gold nugget that sounds and plays like a guitar worth three times of it.

The RR24 should give you a more consistent result, meaning that you in 99% of the cases, get what you pay for(and maybe a little more). And Alder is a nice, tried and tested wood.

If you're still uncertain: try them both before buying, think about it and weigh up the cost vs features for you.
I'd still go for the RR24 though, unless the Alexi 200 played better than it.


Edit: and worth mentioning is that the Alexi 200 has extra jumbo frets, while the RR24 has regular jumbo. This can feel quite different when playing. Ibanez use regular jumbo as well, so you'll probably be more familiar with that(not a night and day scenario though, again, try them)
 
Thanks. I'll need to think this thru. I don't want to buy a guitar this time that I'll get bored with soon. If I could have the RR24 white with ebony it would rule. Do you have experience on the maple fretboard, does it get stained by fingers? I wash my hands regularly in lake Bodom water but still!
 
Thanks. I'll need to think this thru. I don't want to buy a guitar this time that I'll get bored with soon. If I could have the RR24 white with ebony it would rule. Do you have experience on the maple fretboard, does it get stained by fingers? I wash my hands regularly in lake Bodom water but still!

...

Every fretboard needs be to cleaned from time to time. Mine doenst get too dirty. I got one one piece maple neck and no maple cap but I guess its the same.
Anyway, dude, that was again pretty gay.
 
Well now I found the white ESP 200 for 389e new. So would I pay 500e more for the RR24. I also can't try the ESP because it's not available in my town.
 
Will this be your first/only guitar? Do you absolutely need a FR/24 frets? I used to think I needed those things, but a month ago I snagged a like-new RR5 off of eBay for $430 USD including shipping. It's a great guitar, I fully recommend it. Unless you already have another guitar or two for different tunings and the use of a neck pickup, it doesn't make much sense to me anymore to pay more money for a locked-bridge one-pickup guitar. However if you've already 100% decided this is what you want, then that's fine--I'm sure you'll enjoy your purchase--but these are just things to think about.

For a more entry-level comparison though, I'd personally prefer the RR3 (you can find these for pretty cheap if you search around) to the Alexi-200. Made in Japan and has two pickups FTW, and IMO both looks better and feels better to play.
 
I've had a guitar for a couple years. I don't know man. I want 24 frets because I don't want such limitations as COB has 24.

I'm reading bad stuff about the Floyd Rose thing. Are there any guitars like this without that? I don't want to pay millions just to lose my temper with screws and shit trying to get the guitar in tune.

They should make this thing with ebony fret, not painted back, two pickups and no Floyd Rose. Why are they not doing that.
 
Ebony is a black wood, bro. You're not gonna not be able to play CoB shit without 24 frets. All it means is you'll have to just re-phrase/re-arrange your note choices when the time arises that the 24th fret is required to play what Alexi played. It's not that big of a deal, happens far less frequently than you might think, and people will not think less of you for it.

Also, I too know the frustrations of usually finding one thing I don't like about a guitar, but really having no other choice but to settle. That's why people who can afford it buy custom guitars :p
 
Holy fuck, the RR24 would not be much cheaper than this:
242489.jpg

Always thought this is one of the the coolest guitars out there.

Can someone tell why the ebony fret costs 300 more than maple? Cos that's the only difference in the RR24 and RR24M.

I think with the maple fretboard the black one looks better:
660334_800.jpg


Oh well, I guess the Snow White is something different, everyone has a black guitar. I want a white one. It's an uplifting colour. I'll try it today and if I like it I take it before I start stressing about the excess hundreds. Why save money buying an Alexi guitar that's been labeled crap next to this.

Do you get used to the markers being on different frets? I've had them always on different frets. Maybe better to try to not be dependable on them. I guess with vast experience you don't even need them.
 
I have the black w/ white bevels RR24M and it fucking owns any other guitar I have ever played. Things seem to feel better being played on it then all other guitars I have ever played.

The V shape I found easier to play sitting than your standard strat shape. When you sit classical style there is no discomfort what so ever.

The floyde isn't a big deal either...you will basically be forced to figure it out if you want to play it and it be set up proper. Also, if you don't like the floyd you can always block it with a piece of wood or something.

The one thing you gotta think about that most never seem to mention is re-sale value. Out of the Alexi 200 and RR24M which do you think will have a better re-sale value. The Korean made guitar or the Japanese made guitar. Guarantee the Jap guitar will bring in more if you decided to sell it. IMO a guitar is an investment not just an instrument to play.

Also, the maple doesn't get that dirty. There is a satin clear coat on the maple itself, so when it does get some grime on it a damp rag will wipe it right off. It's not like the dirt is embedded in the maple itself. Plus you don't have to oil maple boards like you should with rosewood or ebony. I also read that the black inlays on the maple are actually ebony pieces of wood. Don't know if there is any truth to that, but I did read it somewhere.
 
I actually don't like those big arrows on the Alexi models, I prefer it pale. And of course I've read comparisons and if I get the RR24 for the same price as I would get the Alexi-600 or Jackson RR3 then of course I should get it.



I'll try it today again. You have it with ebony fretboard or maple?

Wait a minute, here: http://www.thomann.de/fi/jackson_rr24m_rhoads_wh_b.htm

It's some limited run that's for 850e. What's up with this? RR24M. M for maple? Are they trying to screw me? Maple gets dirty easy. It could get all spotty like a cheetah.

They were trying to screw me because from online you can order it for 850e and get a case as bonus. Plus to the fact the guitar has been hanging on the store for some time and people have been using it. I could at least be a little business minded next time.

The RR24's have alder body, the Alexi 200 has basswood, which is heavier?

The Alexi 200 is not available in white in Finland now. I find someone selling his black Alexi 200 for 225e. I'm a little skeptic about buying used guitars.

What to do, what to do.



Joonas, the quality of the RR24 and the RR24M are the same, and if you want input on that, ask Necromancer, he has both guitars and he'll be able to tell you.

All fretboards get dirty, you still have to clean them (I do each time I change strings), that shouldn't keep you away from maple, which imo is beautiful.

As far as the comparison, don't compare the Alexi 200 and the RR24, they're not similar in any aspect besides shape. If you want to compare ESP and Jackson the ESP model you're on to is the Alexi 600, but it's a bit over the RR24. The Roope signature is also good, and in the same range of quality and price, so if you're to compare compare RR24/RR24M/Alexi 600, Roope 600, but don't throw Alexi 200 in that mix. If you want to go for the 200 go, but keep in mind that is much lower quality than all of the above. And probably, if your Ibanez isn't a GIO model (if it's a normal RG or S or whatever, but not GIO), the quality of the Ibanez will be as good or better than the Alexi 200. If you want to upgrade I'd say go look into the RR24s and the Alexi and Roope 600 if you want COB styled guitars.
 
How does the Jackson KVX10 compare?
228960.jpg

Jackson X-Series KVX10 King V Electric Guitar - basswood body,
maple neck with rosewood fretboard, Floyd Rose licensed tremolo,
Duncan Designed HB103B (bridge) and HB-102N humbucker (neck)
pickups, 1x volume & 1x tone controls, toggle switch, includes gig bag.

5000 posts :yow:
 
Apart from two pickups instead of one, it pales in comparison to the RR24 imho in terms of features. Duncan Designed pickups are cheap, not bad but on a par with the stock pickup on the omgalexi-200, I should imagine. Alder sounds better than cheap basswood as said earlier, and the Floyd on it (the KVX10) is cheaper constructed=wear out quicker as opposed the one on the RR24. The neck is bolt-on as opposed to neckthru but that's just preference, whilst neckthru feels nicer to play, fret access is hardly a problem unless you have the hands of a five-year old, plus it means that the neck on the kvx10 is actually unpainted. Also I think KVs are sexier :D <3

Basically there are levels of how good guitars are in a company, there are ranges. With a few exceptions a guitar in a higher range will be superior (sometimes vastly so) than one in a lower range. So you have stuff like (not including all ranges, just stuff off the top of my head)

ESP (descending):

ESP Custom Shop
ESP Production
LTD Deluxe
LTD-600
LTD-200

Jackson (descending):

Jackson Custom Shop
Jackson USA Select Series (RR1, KV2, KE1 (anything with __1 model number except the king v)
Jackson Pro Series (RR24, anything with __3 model number, some __5 models have hardware on par with stuff here i.e. KV5FR)
Jackson (anything with __5 model number, lower end stuff like RR5)
Jackson (anything with an X in it)
Jackson JS Series (lowest-end)

I think anyway. Derp.