Guitar Player's Thread

Taking all the strings off at once will not fuck anything. Just makes it a little harder on yourself to get everything re-adjusted after that.

Main thing to remember when dealing with floating trems is balance. You have to have the string tension the same as the spring tension or else your trem will never sit flat.

If you are just going to de-tune, all you will need to do is unclamp string clamps, then you will obviously downtune the strings, but while doing that you will have to take away some of the spring tension. Keep playing with that until its all level and in tune. Clamp sting clamps, then fine tune at the bridge.

Sounds easy, but I know my first time dealing with a floyd made me want to kill someone. It took me about 2 hours to get it how I wanted it. Just be patient and really learn what is going on with it. I can now take all strings off and re-string and set it all up in about 30 mins max.

Tools needed:
Alan wrenches
Phillips head screw driver (to adjust your springs)
Tunner

Thats really it.

When changing your strings, if you buy same guage and change one at a time your really shouldn't even have to mess with the springs in the back. Makes changing strings a breeze. Also instead of cutting off ball ends, just run the string through the tunner all the way with balls on then cut other end at about the string locking block screw, then lock it in at trem, and wind string. Hard to explain really. Videos on youtube about what I am talking about.
 
I have the black one (w/ a few minor upgrades) and it is the best guitar I have ever played and owned. I will never get rid of it. EVER!

The painted neck is really nothing to worry about. Not once has it ever hindered my playing.

Just replaced the small pot metal sustain block with a big ass brass block for the trem. What a great upgrade. Got rid of the ice pickyness of my pick attack and also tammed the brightness down of the maple w/ alder wood. best $40.oo upgrade ever!

My Bitch:
IMAG0044.jpg

That really is a sexy guitar.
 
When changing your strings, if you buy same guage and change one at a time your really shouldn't even have to mess with the springs in the back. Makes changing strings a breeze. Also instead of cutting off ball ends, just run the string through the tunner all the way with balls on then cut other end at about the string locking block screw, then lock it in at trem, and wind string. Hard to explain really. Videos on youtube about what I am talking about.

I think I know what you mean. This way you don't have to make the tie with the string at the head because the ball prevents it escaping the thing.

And screwdriver I need of course for accessing the springs...
 
@ Altitudes - my guitar thanks you for the compliment

@ Joonas - you got it, you knew exactly what I was talking about.
 
I personally vote to block the trem altogether, especially if it's your only guitar :p You get pretty used to dealing with FR after a bit, but after getting a hardtail I'll never choose a FR again unless the guitar I want only comes like that, in which case I'd just block the trem.

<Joonas> said:
Plus do I have to open the backside to adjust the springs everytime I tune?

I actually haven't screwed the back plate onto my FR guitars in a while now. I find leaving them off completely is most efficient. One of my guitars even came missing the back plate but I didn't care.

<Joonas> said:
Watching some tutorial vids and the whole process looks fun and easy unless you're invalid.

I wouldn't say it's fun. Easy? Yes. But easy or not, it still takes extra time that I'd rather spend playing the damn thing. But if you're set on just playing in one tuning then all is fine because I doubt you'll be changing strings so often that it's a big deal.
 
I myself would go for the white one, I don't really like the white pinstripes on the black one. But that's me. And it may also have to do with that I already own a black one, just with red pinstripes :lol:
 
Block the trem? You are crazy. The whole pint of the trem is to be able to push AND pull on it while keeping it in tune.

I know a lot of people who block it because they suck at setting trem up. If that is the case, don't buy a guitar with a floating trem.

It does help with sustain though.

Joonas - when you go to pick it up at shop take it out of box and tell the shop to tune it how you want, also check to make sure everything else is in order how you want it, if not have them adjust it right then and there. I know where I get guitars they will do it for free upon getting any new guitar. Especially a higher priced guitar.
 
^ There are plenty of valid reasons to block the trem. Perhaps when recording you know would make use of the trem for a couple of sections in a song, but when playing/practicing/jamming in general, being able to switch between tunings instantly is more important to you than the occasional usage of the trem. It has nothing to do with sucking at setting it up. I like to make use of multiple tunings within one guitar (even with having several different electric guitars), and regardless of how pro you are at adjusting bridge balance on your guitar, it takes up time and is annoying. And like you said it does affect your tone and sustain. I personally prefer the tone I get from a hardtail/blocked bridge. And there's also the fact that the guitar you want may only come with a FR. For example I bought an Edwards RV 138 w/ case for under $600 shipped and so even with blocking the trem on it, it was still a good deal for me considering all its other specs. I have not seen the same guitar hardtail, and even if it is hypothetically out there, the guitar is rare to begin with (it is out of production).
 
I agree.

It is good for some things. Like if you switch tunnings a lot, especially if time is an issue. I have all the time in the world so I guess that's why I wouldn't do it.

I know people don't always block trem because they suck at setting it up, but I know a lot of people who do block it for that reason alone.

Curious....why do you block it with? I know if I were to ever block it I would use something like a trem stopper.
images

Because if the trem stopper doesn't touch the sustain block it really doesn't improve the sustain.

Some guys I know who block just stick a round piece of wood under the back, which I don't think is a very good way to block a trem.
 
Shit I'll have to wait at least till Monday, and I'm ordering it from another town so tuning is up to me. Is there any chance I'll end up braking the whole damn thing?
 
I say get a guitar with a tremolo and block it later if you decide you don't like the floating bridge system. That way you have the option to have both. Personally, I like the way my hand rests on the guitar with a floating bridge rather than a gibson-style hardtail bridge. Some set bridges are nice, like the set bridge on the PGM301 for example. It takes ~10 minutes to change a set of strings on a floating bridge, if you know what you are doing. As mentioned, don't take off all the old strings before replacing them with the new set. You want to replace each string one at a time.

Btw, is there any difference in terminology when using the words set, fixed, or hardtail to describe a bridge. I use them interchangeably, I thought maybe I should know the difference :lol:
 
The whole point of the trem is to be able to push AND pull on it while keeping it in tune.

Actually the whole point of the trem is to raise or lower pitch thus putting the guitar out of tune during its operation.

Blocking it has nothing to do with a lack of being able to set one up, as eveningninja pointed out.

I can set them up as good as anyone, I blocked mine simply because I'm not into trem-theatrics. In the 80's/90's just about every guitar came with one, these days they're not as common. Jackson Kelly's only came with them when I bought mine.

I find that when I palm mute it raises pitch slightly, I'm recording right now and only added the blocks recently, I may just keep them in.

If I'm ever inspired to use the trem I'll just take the blocks out, it's no big deal, they simply pop out, they aren't glued in.

That trem stopper you linked to only stops the trem raising pitch, you could still do dive bombs with it and I don't think they'd give as much sustain as blocking both sides with wood.

I've simply used two wooden chocks, one either side of the actual 'trem block', all springs are connected too.

Btw, is there any difference in terminology when using the words set, fixed, or hardtail to describe a bridge.

I guess a fixed or set bridge is one that doesn't float.

A Gibson has a bridge that the strings lie over and a tailpiece further down that secures them.

Hardtail seems like a new term to me but the old Bigsby style tremelo is a floating tailpiece so my guess is the term hardtail means fixed tailpiece.

I just looked up hardtail's and the pics show the Fender style tailpiece and bridge in one. I don't think Fender called them that back in the day.

s
 
Well no reamping guitars tomorrow because the UPS fucked up and delivered my gear to someplace other than my house and insist it was delivered to my house.

fucking pissed
 
Actually the whole point of the trem is to raise or lower pitch thus putting the guitar out of tune during its operation.

I know that. Anyone with ears knows that.

I meant after abusing the trem it stays in tune, thus being a locking trem.

Guess I should have been a little more clear.

@Joonas - you will not break guitar...I repeat...you will not break it.


Unless you take all the strings off at one....j/p:D