mutantllama
Active Member
I'm prepared in case the power goes out(there's this one pole that tends to be shitty up the road), but we aren't getting much, just a foot maybe.
The "What Are You Doing This Moment" Thread
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Blind Guardian
Member
unknown
fuck ftagn
damnromulans
Klingons do not faint
My northern moonforest is my head hair, which is long and straight and black. You can't really impale that. My southern moonforest looks like really old roast beef covered in dust bunnies.
unknown
fuck ftagn
Way to ruin my innuendo. I considered switching it to "southern" moonforest, but felt people might get confused. A lot of these people aren't very bright.
Blind Guardian
Member
Krampus, isn't it time to remove the Christmas-themed avatar now?
Also, if you ever watch Curb You Enthusiasm S02E03 (The Acupuncturist), could you tell me what the crazy Japanese waiter says to Larry?
Also, if you ever watch Curb You Enthusiasm S02E03 (The Acupuncturist), could you tell me what the crazy Japanese waiter says to Larry?
damnromulans
Klingons do not faint
No. It's Christmas year round in Krampusland.
I was mostly joking about the old roast beef. But the dust bunnies thing is true.
I was mostly joking about the old roast beef. But the dust bunnies thing is true.
unknown
fuck ftagn
Sven Pakkanen
Ein Windir
Just got back from getting my geek on. Started with DnD, got my ass kicked by an elder Taint Elemental, barely beat him, then played some Magic. Tomorrow I'm going to work on getting a Warhammer army. Gotta be young while I'm young. Going to work on my campaign for 3.5 setting now.
Krigloch the Furious
Pants full of poo
zabu of nΩd
Free Insultation
- Feb 9, 2007
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Well, I haven't actually heard of the 35-80mm till now
Apparently it is a really really old lens.Judging from it's lot in the Canon lineup, you'll probably get the sharpest photo if you stop down one step, and typically with lenses of this quality you can expect a great deal of softness as you progress towards the end of the lens.
Prob stick it around 40mm at 5.0/5.6 for maximum sharpness; this is a somewhat uneducated guess though, best way to figure it out is to set up an is012233 chart and take some pictures at different apertures.
Use this picture, just print out one and set it up in a well lit area (tripod preferred so you can remain stationary so your pictures don't vary wildly). Focus on a specific section (you don't need to get the whole thing in the picture), and then compare shots.
For example:
Set at 35mm, take picture at lowest aperture, then increase one stop and take picture, then increase one stop and take another picture, repeat.
Set at 40mm, repeat steps
Set at 50mm, repeat steps
You get the point.
This will give you all possible combinations and will show you exactly where your lens strengths lie. Also, don't bother going past f11 on your camera, since I bet that thing would refract like a motherfucker at any stop past that.
---------------------------
Do you know the basic rules of shooting?
Srontgorrth
Member
Well, I haven't actually heard of the 35-80mm till now
Judging from it's lot in the Canon lineup, you'll probably get the sharpest photo if you stop down one step, and typically with lenses of this quality you can expect a great deal of softness as you progress towards the end of the lens.
Prob stick it around 40mm at 5.0/5.6 for maximum sharpness; this is a somewhat uneducated guess though, best way to figure it out is to set up an is012233 chart and take some pictures at different apertures.
Use this picture, just print out one and set it up in a well lit area (tripod preferred so you can remain stationary so your pictures don't vary wildly). Focus on a specific section (you don't need to get the whole thing in the picture), and then compare shots.
For example:
Set at 35mm, take picture at lowest aperture, then increase one stop and take picture, then increase one stop and take another picture, repeat.
Set at 40mm, repeat steps
Set at 50mm, repeat steps
You get the point.
This will give you all possible combinations and will show you exactly where your lens strengths lie. Also, don't bother going past f11 on your camera, since I bet that thing would refract like a motherfucker at any stop past that.
---------------------------
Do you know the basic rules of shooting?
Oh reallly? Weird. Maybe I could sell it for the regular 18-55mm or something. I'll print out that picture when I'm at school today though, and then I can take it home and begin, seems like it'll be very helpful. And uh, what's f11?
As for the basic rules, probably not, no. Might pick up a beginners photography book type thing or something in the library. I downloaded the Dummies guide for the Rebel XS and started that, but it seems to be focusing on all the different modes and settings more than anything else.
Sven Pakkanen
Ein Windir
Who, me? Or are you referring to a different kind of poster (paper poster etc.)
Man don't even bother with that shit.
Camera's work around three basic thing: Aperture, shutter speed, and ISO
Aperture - The diameter of the lens that opens to collect light. Aperture is expressed in F-stops; the more light that is let in, the smaller the F-stop designation. Likewise, the larger the F-stop designation, the less light you will let in.
Ex: F1.8 would let a lot of light in
F2.8 in would also let a great chunk of light in, but not as much as 1.8)
F11 would be letting barely any light in at all compared to the above two stops.
You may ask yourself why people do not just keep there lenses wide open (smallest number designation), and the answer is simple: depth of field
Shutter speed: Pretty obvious, this is the speed of the shutter, which therefore means it is the control for how much light you want to pass through the aperture lens to the sensor.
Depending on the lens, you can actually handhold shots as low as 1/5 second. For your lens I would try to see if you can take a steady shot around 1/30sec - you should only be able to do this in moderately well lit conditions though.
ISO - Denotes is how sensitive the image sensor is to the amount of light present. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the image sensor becomes. The reason to increase ISO is to make it easier to function in low-light situations, but the downside is that a higher ISO increases the noise you'll find in your pictures. Click here for an example of noise and ISO.
--------------
To do a quick summation:
Aperture is the size of the hole in which light passes through. You can increase or decrease this size depending on what F-stop you settle on.
Shutter speed: The gateway/controls how much light at a given time enters through the aperture and how long it will illuminate the sensor.
ISO: How sensitive the sensor is to light; the larger the number the more sensitive it is (ex: 1600 is waaaaaay more sensitive than 100).
As for your camera modes, fuck every one of the "portrait" or "night photography" settings. These are the only settings you will really need to start off with:
Av - Camera lets you select the aperture, auto compensates for everything else.
Tv - Camera lets you select what shutter speed you want, auto compensates for aperture
M - Manual... ind of obvious (you control everything!)
Auto - For when you get lazy and want to see what a picture should look like (assuming it is correctly auto-exposing everything)
The one thing I recommend you read through is the manual for the camera body, as it will cover each of these modes more in depth, cover metering options, and a lot of other stuff (and you'll prob want to know about auto ISO adjustment). The other book that is recommended is [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-3rd-Photographs-Camera/dp/0817439390/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1296669968&sr=8-1"]Understanding Exposure[/ame].
Edit: I got to be honest, I am not a fan of the 18-55mm. I think the 50mm 1.8 prime is a perfect entry level lens, and it is way cheaper too. Frankly if you plan on doing any concerts, you are going to want this lens anyway for your budget. Fuck, for my budget I still want this lens (I am replacing it with a 16-35mm L lens however)
Av - Camera lets you select the aperture, auto compensates for everything else.
Tv - Camera lets you select what shutter speed you want, auto compensates for aperture
M - Manual... ind of obvious (you control everything!)
Auto - For when you get lazy and want to see what a picture should look like (assuming it is correctly auto-exposing everything)
The one thing I recommend you read through is the manual for the camera body, as it will cover each of these modes more in depth, cover metering options, and a lot of other stuff (and you'll prob want to know about auto ISO adjustment). The other book that is recommended is [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-3rd-Photographs-Camera/dp/0817439390/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1296669968&sr=8-1"]Understanding Exposure[/ame].
Edit: I got to be honest, I am not a fan of the 18-55mm. I think the 50mm 1.8 prime is a perfect entry level lens, and it is way cheaper too. Frankly if you plan on doing any concerts, you are going to want this lens anyway for your budget. Fuck, for my budget I still want this lens (I am replacing it with a 16-35mm L lens however)
Sven Pakkanen
Ein Windir
Ah you mean krampus? Yeah I'm starting to as well. Pretty sad that I have 2 years on her and she has me beat by over 4000 posts.
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